DIY Power-flushing

[p.lavers]

I intend to powerflush my central heating system prior to a plumber installing a new combi boiler. I will be hiring the kit from HSS. I am happy following the instructions apart from one thing. If I connect the appliance in place of a radiator, do I have to take any action to disable the pump in the boiler? It is an old Ocean Stylee FF boiler if that is of consequence. I am not concerned about any damage to the boiler in its capacity to provide CH but I need to preserve its HW functionality for a couple more weeks. Had a look at the pump in the boiler but no obvious way to disable it. Many Thanks Paul

[Doctor Drivel]

Don't bother, it may cause leaks. Buy "Fernox" DS40 cleaner. It is strong and acidic and will grab all the crap in there - you don't keep it in for long. Flush a few times after use. Insert X-100 inhibitor. If you have a sealed system you may have to pour it into a radiator. If you have a header tank, then darin just the tank, pour in and re-fill. Start system. You may have to run the system hot a few times in this weather though, so all windows open at times. Running the CH with the boiler stat off will circulate the Fernox around the rads and no heat. So, you can run it overnight with the pump running and no heat.

Get the installer to fit either a Magnaclean or Fernox Boiler Buddy filter on the return pipe. Magnaclean is easier to clean for DIY purposes. This will grab all the ferrous magnetite and protect the system and boiler and prevent sludge build ups.

[p.lavers]

[Doctor Drivel]

Please no top posting.

Power flushing does it quickly. It take time to put in the anti-sludge, leave it a day or week or whatever (it may cause an air lock and a rad is not working and missed and the customer rings them back because it is cold, etc), and then they flush it through. A number of visits. BG stopped using power flushing at one time because of the leaks it made.

Cheaper and better to use the method I outlined.

[Fred]

On a friends system I removed each radiator and up-ended each one to remove sludge. I used a hosepipe to do the final flushing. Took an afternoon but no costs. Just be careful not to damage the fittings. It's also handy to have a couple of spare valves to close off a radiator when moving it around.

The result was a very clear system which originally only had flow at the top of each radiator.

Afterwards I would recommend the use of inhibitor.

The use of a magnetic separator is questionable but it won't do any harm and should give an indication of any looming corrosion problems.

[Doctor Drivel]

Good idea. As he is DIYing he can afford the time to remove the rads and use a hose pipe (pros will not do this), then use Fernox DS40.

[Dougie Nisbet]

I tried that once. Had everything ready. Pity I didn't factor in the weight of the rad. In the end I isolated the boiler and shoved hoses into interesting places until eventually the system was clean. There's something incredibly satisfying about flushing out your CH system. A bit like colonic irrigation I guess, but cheaper and you can still talk afterwards.

[Andy Hall]

On Thu, 13 Jul 2006 09:17:33 +0100, Fred wrote (in article ):

Absolutely.

The technique works well.

It's really an unnecessary gimmick and is not necessary if the system has been cleaned and inhibitor maintained. For the cost of one of these, enough inhibitor to last more than a system lifetime can be purchased.

[Doctor Drivel]

You clearly have no experience of such matters. After two years with inhibitor most F&E tanks have a layer of magnetite at the bottom, and as do the rads. Inhibitor is not all catching all stopping of corrosion.

[Andy Hall]

On Thu, 13 Jul 2006 16:52:42 +0100, Doctor Drivel wrote (in article ):

That's curious. In my open vented system, there was no build up of magnetite in the F&E tank and little crud in the radiators. This was over a period of 20 years.

Of course, I used inhibitor in my system...

[Doctor Drivel]

You have only ever looked into one CH system in all your life.

[Doctor Drivel]

Matt, you have only ever looked into one CH system in all your life.

[Andy Hall]

On Thu, 13 Jul 2006 18:22:42 +0100, Doctor Drivel wrote (in article ):

Wrong.

[Doctor Drivel]

Matt, looking into it twice doesn't mean it is two systems.

[Andy Hall]

On Thu, 13 Jul 2006 19:09:00 +0100, Doctor Drivel wrote (in article ):

Even if that were true, it would be somewhat better quality information than that which you present which seems to come only from manufacturer's brochures.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

My question was about a system known to have had the correct inhibitor used throughout its life - which suggests it will be one's own domestic heating system. Of course if its unknown the proceeder will be different.

Your replies suggest you don't use inhibitor in your own systems.

[Doctor Drivel]

Matt, in your mind that is.

[Doctor Drivel]

Sad isn't it. Very sad. I hope they are nice to him.

[Andy Dingley]

The only problem with this technique is that _you're_ recommending it, and on the strength of all your other posts you're an idiot.

I know nothing about plumbing. But if _you_ told me to fill my pipes with water I'd begin to doubt it.

[Doctor Drivel]

Mr Dingley Dell, one of the founder members of the uk-d-i-y Lunatic Association makes an appearance. It is plainly clear, idiots don't know about plumbing which you have freely admitted above. How is the therapy going? Have the voices gone away yet?

Sad isn't it.