DIY Kitchen Cupboard

[bob.smithson]

A while ago we had the boiler removed from the kitchen. It had been wall mounted between two cupboards and hidden behind a door matching the cupboard doors. I think when we bought the kitchen (quite a while ago now), we bought a whole cupboard for the boiler space, but the fitter just used the side panels, which he attached to the adjacent cupboards and one of which he hung the door from.

So now we've got an unused space that could be a useful cupboard. I thought the easiest thing to do would be to buy a carcass from somewhere, fit that in the space, and hang the existing door on it. However, there are two problems. One is that the cupboards are quite tall and from what I have been able to find out so far seem to be a non standard size - about 864mm high. The other is that the gap between the two cupboards is 2 or 3 mm short of 60mm, so assuming a

60mm cupboard really is 60mm, it's not going to fit. It *might* be possible to shift one of the existing cupboards along as there is a gap between it an the wall to allow for some pipes. It has a simple fillet piece of white covered chipboard to hide the gap. My hope was that there might be enough slack between the pipes and the cupboard to nudge it along a bit, and I could trim the fillet down by the corresponding amount. But as I say I am thwarted with the cupboard height anyway...

So I wondered how difficult it would be to make a cabinet? The existing stuff is fairly bog standard quality as far as I can tell. It's white faced 15mm chipboard, originally flat packed. If it wouldn't be too hard, could someone give me a noddy guide to what materials, fixings, joints etc I should use. I have fairly basic tools. One thing that worries me from previous experience where it didn't matter too much is that I know it's quite hard to get a straight line with a jig saw (for me anyway!) and also I would have to be pretty accurate with lengths. Could I use a router for this? I don't have one but might like to have the excuse to buy one ;-)

All advice appreciated.

Thanks,

Bob

[The Medway Handyman]

Assuming the door more or less fits and it was a standard door, you should have a 'standard' space.

If the two side panels are still there, then all you need is shelves surely? Why would you need a new carcass?

Surely its all goverened by the height of the door? I would say its easier to trim a carcass than move the cupboard.

15mm furniture board from Wickes, screw together with Turbogold screws from Screwfix.

Its hard if not impossible to get a straight line with a jigsaw, even a top of the range Makita/Bosch. Straight lines are not what jigsaws are for, they are for curved lines. Circular saws cut straight lines, especially if you use the incredibly useful sawboard

Even a cheap circular saw with a decent TCT blade will make a good job of this.

If your DIY cupboard is between two others, slightly splintered edges, screws showing etc won't ever be seen.

But I have to go back & ask if the original side panels & door are available?

Difficult to explain this sort of thing in words, do you have a picture?

[meow2222]

I also dont understand why you want a carcass, just add shelves to the existing space. A picture would help.

Re making kitchen cabs - not the remotest chance that a jigsaw would do. For cabinet work you need a high quality saw that will cut precisely and perfectly cleanly, and you dont do that with basic tools.

NT

[bob.smithson]

You'd think so wouldn't you. The complete cupboards measure exactly

60mm. No matter how I measure between them its 2-3 mm short. The door is the same and it looks OK but it's not a 60mm space.

You're probably right. I originally thought it would be easier just to get a whole new carcass and when I went on to the DIY option, I remained in that mind set. But yes I can probably re-use the side panels. There is no top and bottom to the cupboard though. I wasn't sure if this needed special fixings compared with the shelves.

So you are saying just screw directly from the side panels into the

15mm edge? What sort of length screw?

I do have an old circular saw. Thanks for the sawboard tip.

Yes they are - sorry if I over-complicated it.

Thanks for the advice.

Bob

[bob.smithson]

See reply to Dave above - yes just adding shelves probably is the sensible option on reflection.

So do you think this applies to cutting the shelves and bottom/top pieces of cupboard accurately? Dave suggested a cicular saw with a sawboard. Will I get away with that?

Thanks

Bob

[The Medway Handyman]

Same fixing, a top or bottom is just a shelf without a shelf above or below it.

Yup. I'd use something around 40mm x 3.5mm. Or you could use block joints

>>> Its hard if not impossible to get a straight line with a jigsaw, >> even a top

Prolly worth buying a new TCT blade for it. Deffo worth making up the sawboard, you simply won't believe how useful they are, precision cutting to within a millimetre with a little care.

HTH

[Stuart Noble]

sawboard

Even a cheap circular

I'd get the furniture board cut to size at your local timber merchant. When the pieces are precisely cut, the assembly is a piece of cake. Screwing into the 15mm edge is just about possible if you're very accurate. I use SF carcass screws but I'm sure plasterboard screws would do as well. Connector blocks are better if the assembled unit is going to be a tight fit. Once a screwed unit goes out of square as you're moving it, you're pretty much buggered. I clamp the blocks wherever possible to stop the screw wandering as you fix them. You only get one chance in chipboard

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Leave the existing setup, fit some spur shelving units to the back wall, fit the brackets where you want the shelves. You could screw through into the ends of these shelves from the other side for increased rigidity.

I made up some odd sized wall cupboards using this technique - makes for a far stronger wall cupboard than is normal.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

Best way to cut this sort of board is with a good circular saw. Clamp a guide to it to keep the cut straight. With a good blade you'll get a factory quality cut. IIRC, Lidl had these on offer last week so your local one might still have them

[Geo]

I assumed "basic tools" would have included a hand saw - which always did the job perfectly...

[meow2222]

of course

yes, if you clamp hardboard onto it and cut through the pair, and go real easy on the cutting. If you don't the finish will chip off all along the edge and look terrible. I'd recommend trying it on a piece of scrap first.

NT

[The Medway Handyman]

Depends on the blade & the sawboard greatly reduces chipping.

I use a 50 TPI blade on a 165mm Makita circ saw with a sawboard & can get better than factory finish on melamine faced board & 38mm worktops. If you are making shelves, cut from what will become the underside. The top surface will be perfect.

[JDT2Q]

During the mid 70's and shortly after buying our first new house I did a complete fitted kitchen to replace the units fitted. Money tight - made all the units myself.

In those days it tended to be just a sink unit & 1 double base unit and 1 double wall unit above fitted even in brand new houses. I had ( still have ) a large circular saw and bought a new TCT blade for the job ( £25 for just the blade IIRC ). I used white contiboard for concealed areas and natural teak finish for all that was showing ( doors, end panels etc ). I soon realised that getting a good perfect straight edge was almost impossible even when using the saws edge guide. I used a sawboard against the saws baseplate from then onwards and still do when I need an accurate cut. The dimensions of the cut to sawboard distance are etched in my brain with an allowance for the blade width where needed.

For a reason I can't remember now, I screwed through the side panels into the end of the top/bottom/shelves and fitted a red wallplug into the holes in the ends of the shelves ( etc ). There was some logical reason at the time. Maybe it was so that I knew for certain where the screws would bite whilst drilling away from the kitchen.

I remember the first few joints and learning that the shelf end began to split on some occasions. Then I made sure to always align the plastic plug so that it expanded exactly in the direction of the shelf width not its height ( which was causing the splits ).

The kitchen looked good when finished and was still there when we sold that house 14 years later.

Definitely always saw from the unseen side to avoid chipping of the seen edge.

The biggest problem I had was accurately.drilling the 35mm ( IIRC ) holes in the doors for the hinges even when using a drill stand.

But I was a new DIYer then.

I wouldn't hesitate to add top/bottom/shelves to your existing cabinet in your situation.

With care you should get good results.

JD

[The Medway Handyman]

I come across this bodge pretty often. Wall plugs are NOT suitable for use in chipboard, MDF or natural timber. The raison detre of a wall plug is to expand, which will split any of these materials.

[Stuart Noble]

You can get a perfect finish on contiboard with any old cheapo saw providing the baseplate is running steadily against a straightedge of some kind. Freehand sawing may well chip the edges

[Dave Plowman (News)]

No need anyway - chipboard screws are readily available. Best to drill a pilot hole, though. But most 'new' woodscrews will do just as well. Old slotted types not.

[Stuart Noble]

IME, if you're screwing, say, an inch into the edge of chipboard, you need to be spot on at 90 degs, and you need something with a smaller shank than the normal size 8 chipboard screws. Haven't tried plasterboard screws, but they look about right

[meow2222]

The OP has 'basic tools,' not makitas. Such an approach would just ruin the board

NT

[bob.smithson]

I have an old B&D circular saw. I've never found it particularly nice to use and it seems to be an odd size as the blades are quite hard to come by. Consequently I avoid using it even for jobs where it might be the most appropriate tool.

I know from comparing my crappy B&D cordless drill with my Makita that I got subsequently what a difference there can be in tool quality. Would the same be true of a circular saw? I could be tempted to buy a new one if a suitable recommendation were obtained. I saw a Makita model on Screwfix the other day - probably at the bottom end of their range at =A380 or so. Also what size blade should I be looking for in terms of availability, usefulness and, I guess, how well it handles?

Thanks,

Bob

[bob.smithson]

Oops - sorry for the excessive quoting in previous message.

It was collapsed in Google, where I posted from, and I didn't notice it.