In article , Dave Plowman (News) scribeth thus
Excellent Irons thinness the TCP series. I've had one albeit re built a few times since the early 90's ;!..
As to the original problem that solder wick is useless if its a slightest bit tarnished (oxidised) I always use a solder sucker and with careful .. use not lifted a track for years....
Solder paste is great for hot air rework but not really meant for manual soldering. More normal is to use a little flux and some uber fine SMD solder. eg here:
or
For discretes, wipe a little flux over the pads, add a little solder to one pad, place comp, hold down and melt solder on pad, then solder other pad with as little heat as poss to avoid re-melting other end. Add more solder to other end if reqd.
For multilead, wipe flux, add a little solder to corner pads and do pretty much as for discretes to fix the corners, then solder each pad in turn. Ignore any bridges as you go (other than remembering to use less solder on next pin) then use fine (re)fluxed braid to remove bridges or excess solder.
On lead pitch from your other reply, I assume you were saying 65 thou, which is 1.65mm. No big prob with that, down to 1.27mm should go ok with that technique.
Advice on cut out to replace multileads is still valid, v fine flush cutters are required, usually v expensive but these should do:
Don't forget the magnifying glass (or magnifying specs).
Good luck.
After lots of experimenting I decided there was nothing on the market (at a price I could afford) that did everything I wanted, so I built my own. And have never regretted it. But I like Antex handsets. So based it around them. The desolder one is Pace.
I rarely use braid since I have a desolder unit, but when I do have never found it tarnished. Dry workshop. ;-) It's oxide on the joint that stops it working - so as I said re-flow it before using the braid. Try it. ;-)
Same here. You just need 4 hands (OK, you can do it with 3...)
Desoldering braid was great, but I suspect it has been rendered useless these days by environmentally friendly, biodegradable, recylable ingredients.
I used to make my own, copper braid [ The screen of a TV aerial downlead stripped and flattened], and then drag it through a tin of Fry's Flux. The active stuff i.e acidic.
The trick to desoldering then was to tin the extreme edge of the braid [ to aid heat transfer] Then the solder would readily wick away from the joint.
A thorough cleaning of the area of the board worked on would then be needed as any exposed copper coated with the flux would become green, gungy and powdery after a few days.
Not sure if the flux is still available but TV coax is not proper braid anymore, so anyone wanting to produce their own would probably have to go for comms cable RG58 or similar.
Solder suckers are O/K, but to drag a 48 pin DIL chip from a PCB was a timre consuming task that would take seconds with a hot iron and a few inches of braid
HN
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