Component level repair and desoldering

I was toying with doing a wiki article on component level repair of electronic stuff, since there seems to be so much otherwise decent kit that dies these days for silly reasons like failing capacitors etc.

With modern lead free solder, and ever increasing layout densities, use of multilayer boards etc, the job of component removal seems to be getting ever harder. There was a time when a moderate iron with enough bit mass to heat the joint quickly, was all you needed. To reflow the joint and then either pull the device, or apply a solder sucker, all one did was tin the bit, apply heat for a couple of secs, and job done.

Recently I have needed to recap a few motherboards (not usually an economic exercise - but these were custom form factor jobbies where replacements are not readily available), and they were a right PITA to work on. Obviously multilayer, and since the caps are on the power regulation sections, probably connected to fairly heavy power plane traces in the board. Component removal was very difficult - often taking excessive time for the joint to reflow. Tight pins in close holes with a small annulus. However cleaning the holes for reuse proved impossible with any of my normal irons. In the end I had to resort to using a hot air paint stripper with small nozzle on the end to get enough heat into the area to be able to suck the holes clear!

I was wondering what suggestions those of you who do this daily had to offer?

Reply to
John Rumm
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We had a similar problem on a Harris VHF/FM broadcast transmitter where they recommend you break the cap off and solder to the wires that are left behind;!..

This wasn't to do with cleaning out the holes just a lorra dismantling to get to the other side of that board. Prolly not too practical on Motherboards with very high component densities, but as you say a real PITA to clear the holes..

Just bought a new Gigabyte board the other day boasts "solid" Electro caps;!...

Reply to
tony sayer

Hmm nice ;-)

Still in the past when I have needed to remove a QFP device off a board, it was safer to run a knife down each side a few times to chop off all the legs, and then flick each off individually after rather than try doing the whole thing in one hit. Bit of a shame if the device was not toast before you started though!

Actually a workable solution - although difficult getting cutters under them sometimes. You can sometimes get a scalpel blade in there.

Yup, some of the ASUS ones are now claiming mil-spec caps in full ali enclosures rather than the normal plastic coated ones.

Reply to
John Rumm

That's it. The other problem with desoldering TH parts from multilayer boards is its liable to damage connection between buried layers of the pcb, which is then a nightmare to repair.

I see a couple of potential problems with tackling electronic repairs in one page on a wiki - or anywhere else, aimed at the inexperienced.

First, no matter how long the page, a beginner simply isnt going to end up competent after reading it. So to enable a newb to get a repair done requires skipping key info, which will inevitably result in problems and unsuitable advice.

The other issue is that popular myths have a habit of coming into discussions about electronics in largely non-expert forums.

NT

Reply to
NT

In message , John Rumm wrote

Never use lead free solder. 60/40, with flux, is still readily available.

Re-solder the joint before attempting to remove components or re-solder the pad after component removal and before cleaning out the hole. This will introduce some more flux to the joint and allow the solder to flow better when using a solder sucker or de-soldering braid.

Most (all) of the capacitors that fail on PSUs tend to be the larger can type electrolytic. On a single side PCB just heat one pad until the solder melts and pull the lead through a bit by pulling on the capacitor can. Repeat on the other leg - then go back to the original leg etc. On a multi-layer board this method will cause damage to the board so cut the component out and then remove the remaining soldered legs - if you are going to replace a (cheap) component doesn't matter if you damage the old one.

Reply to
Alan

Nothing particularly new about those, see os-CON, etc.

Reply to
Andy Wade

Surely you're not suggesting this is a largely non-expert forums.

Owain

Reply to
Owain

Can't see that no advice is going to be better than some. Also keep in mind that in this day and age, there are not the army of professional repairers around that there used to be. Hence the options often come down to fix it yourself, or throw it away. Assuming you are starting with something already broken, what is there to lose?

Well possibly, but since we have a number of professional engineers here with experience in a reasonably wide range of electronics and the handling of same, that ought not be so much of a problem.

Reply to
John Rumm

Hot air. It makes it hugely easier. There are relatively cheap hot air stations around... go to certain backstreets of cities in the developing world and you can see people doing component level service on recent TVs etc there.

Not tried but, for example:

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'm not sure I believe the listed temperature of '150' there)

You don't need dozens of tips for each and every package, but just some narrow tips and some broad (square) ones will do. Having more heat can be handy for the broader tips. Vacuum is nice, but really not essential. A hotplate can be handy for preheat.

I think a selection of videos would be good for an FAQ: soldering is something you learn from watching, not from reading.

Theo

Reply to
Theo Markettos

A1 tip.

Yup. Don't attempt to save the suspect component - if possible cut it off so you can attack each leg individually. The important bit you need to avoid damage to is the PCB.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I have a cheap hot-air SMT rework station (ebay) which is quite effective at individual component removal on multi-layer boards. I usually have the smallest tip fitted which has about a 4mm hole. I use the same method for SMT ICs, run the air-flow around the pins until the chip is free, then flip it over with a knife or similar. Clean pads with decent solder wick and fit replacement, typically by flow-soldering by hand all the pins on each side of the IC in turn.

Capacitor failure seems to be far worse than it used to be, when I worked in electronic repair (~15 years ago) I rarely had any issues with caps, but now it's one of the first things I look for, especially in SMPSUs, monitors & TVs.

Reply to
Alan Deane

In message , John Rumm writes

A few random thoughts - more to follow

Repair would entail correct diagnosis of the fault

Some boards are so cheaply built that unless you are good with a soldering iron, you can detach a pad from the pcb

Decent equipment and practice are essential if you are not going to do more harm than good. Attacking a PCB by someone who is inexperienced is liable to end in tears

plated through holes, once the component lead is removed, if you then reapply solder to the joint and can clean the hole out better with a solder sucker

Surface mount devices are often glued to the pcb

for surface mounted devices, you can now buy a budget hot air gun

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can also buy a budget desoldering station if you want a new toy. We've been using one for a couple of months now and it hasn't fallen apart yet

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Reply to
geoff

A SMPS puts a far greater load on the caps than an analogue one.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

In message , Theo Markettos writes

This is an excellent suggestion.

Brought up on valves, I'm still at the level of "cut or break off the component and resolder to the old wires", but the resoldering is often difficult with capacitors because they are over the wires.

I've got tons of stuff here that is just waiting for me to pluck up the courage, so any info about updates to my technique would be very welcome.

Reply to
Bill

Any recommendations for hotplates (DIY or OTS)?

Reply to
Bob Eager

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(I'm not sure I believe the listed temperature of '150' there)

No that does sound implausibly low... would not even melt leaded solder. Not a bad price mind you given you can get a reasonable range of nozzles for it.

We could probably find one of the many on youtube to link to. Having said that I learnt from a written description many years ago.

Reply to
John Rumm

I now have three of them, they are hot enough, they work. I have had a couple of element burnouts, though. You only need the small (4mm?) nozzle for normal work

Reply to
geoff

in electronic repair?

NT

Reply to
NT

exactly, and thats where ukdiy often falls down, and beginners cant generally do it on their own.

you can, but I've never seen teh point. Just heat the hole and push the component lead through.

NT

Reply to
NT

I have a puter here which is exhibiting all the signs of dodgy caps. It occasionally clunks and clicks then lets through switching transients to the analogue bits of the sound card. Its not the card. Its a real pity when such an obviously simple thing means goodby. Maybe they just cannot make capacitors that last any more. Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff

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