Ah well, an inspection can't see what's under the plaster anyway, and there's no way the council will have a wiring diagram for every house, so I guess we can carry on as normal.
I really don't need to be paying over the odds for some muppet to come round and make a bad job of wiring my house when I can do it better myself.
You misunderstand - I didn't mean 30mph speed limit signs, I meant cars being physically limited to 30mph!
It would be ugly for both, which is why people don't want it. It would actually be easier to wire a house if visible conduit were the way to go - obviously aesthetics still have some importance.
What has burying cables 50mm got to do with diagonally running cables? Do you bother reading posts before you respond?
But while on the subject of diagonal runs, the report states that the cable was meandering. To me, that doesn't imply the fitter ran the cable diagonally to save cable, more likely a dodgy 'straight' run that swerved all over the place.
Not necessarily so, the bad one I got once wouldn't let me move ANYTHING, fortunately someone who was with me saw what was happening and twigged on very quickly as a similar thing had happened to him once but now quite the same path!....
No, no. I meant that most accidents occur near home where the vehicles involved aren't doing more than 30 anyway. If they were all fitted with govenors then people would drive them flat out all the time without thinking and it would be a lot more dangerous.
I meant a properly designed trunking system which would replace the skirting board (probably secured to the walls before plastering) or be at worktop height in the kitchen. You could then fit mains, telephone, ethernet, aerial and loudspeaker sockets as required. This sort of thing is widely used in commercial premeses.
On 12 Oct 2004 09:51:41 -0700, a particular chimpanzee named snipped-for-privacy@iname.com (StealthUK) randomly hit the keyboard and produced:
Vertical chases up to 1/3rd of the leaf thickness are allowed (33mm for a 100mm block) but horizontal ones no more than 1/6th. Given that most walls will have a reasonable thickness of render & skim over (probably 13-15mm) or plasterboard on dabs (9.5mm + 10mm gap), then the actual chase into the masonry should only be of the order of
30-35mm. So any cable should only be in a vertical chase.
At least 9 of the 10 are killed because of road user error at the time, not by mechanical failure, poor maintenance or other causes. I get my car maintenance skills tested twice a year by the MoT test, but my driving skills were mandatorily tested once when I was 17 and that was over 40 years ago. I have since passed the IAM test and will be retested every three years if I join the qualified observer scheme, but that's entirely voluntary.
Kit car and classic car insurance is relatively cheap because people who put a lot of effort into building, restoring and maintaining their own cars tend to drive them more carefully and don't have more claims because their vehicles are unroadworthy. In fact they're more likely to spot problems before they become serious.
We need to do something about maintaining driving standards and updating people on the latest techniques, changes to the law, etc. How many drivers have even bothered to get the 2004 edition of the Highway Code? How many even know it was revised this year? How many have looked at any edition since passing their basic driving tests?
On Tue, 12 Oct 2004 18:53:06 +0100, a particular chimpanzee named "Dave Plowman (News)" randomly hit the keyboard and produced:
My first taste of "work experience" was labouring for a week with a couple of electricians on a barn conversion in Derbyshire (admittedly in the 1970's). My jobs included chasing out the walls for the sockets in as straight a line as I could from one corner of the wall to the diagonally opposite one, and mixing the plaster for the 'professionals' to plaster straight over them when they'd wired the sockets up.
Don't know why they did it that way, but one has to wonder why someone doing a barn conversion in the Peak District would employ electricians from over fifty miles away at a time of high unemployment, unless they were exceedingly cheap.
Yes, surface-run is also allowed, though not if it's likely to be damaged. (So, in domestic kitchen behind cooker - fine; in busy workshop/warehouse, unprotected T&E surface-run would be inappropriate).
As for digging a 2-inch trench - that's not really what the regs-writers are trying to encourage! Rather, it's saying "if you must take a non-obvious route, put the cable out of the way of normal little nails and screws"; e.g. if in a partition wall, clipped to the centre line of the studwork (makes it a b*g*r to replace, of course - and not many studs-n-noggins running diagonally ;-); where not feasible to go that deep, provide bad-ass degree of cable protection. Mostly, the regs-writers would like you as an installer to reconsider running cables other than in the Expected routes, imposing pretty onerous requirements for such routes to sway the economics back in the direction of "obvious" up/down/across routes.
Yes :-) It was meant to illustrate the extreme lengths you would need to go to in order to save all those lives lost on the roads, showing that in some areas at least, we do not attempt to save lives "at any cost". In this context, the 10 lives out of 60 million lost due to home electrocutions each year would not warrent extra regulation such as Part P.
And the railway companies are forced to spend *billions* on protection systems that will save, at best, only a few tens of lives. Crazy. In today's world, spin rules over statistics every time.
Yes - I've come across pro installations with no grommets in the box knockouts, no earth sleeving, no tails to the box earth, and boxes 'fixed' with the most amazing things. Masonry nails into wood. Clouts into brick.
Some just take a delight in saving pennies regardless.
Well, I hope your detector works better than mine. For a start, I need a magnifying glass to see whether I'm on stud or electrical detection (is there a difference?). Then I get readings suggesting the cable is 6" wide. Now it's above the fitting, now it's below. Oh sod it! Turn the power off and use a cordless drill. But that's probably what the rack fitter did in this incident. Is there really no more accurate method? Any treasure hunters out there?
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