Cut too much cable from pendant fitting

I've cut too much of the hanging power cable from a pendant light fitting (learning on a needs must basis to use wire strippers).

There's now only a few inches of cable hanging. It still works of course but there's less hang than there should be and it probably looks a bit odd.

To correct it would it be a case of using a terminal block above the fitting to extend the cable (something I'm not going to do as a diy job given my obvious lack of skill)?

Reply to
Gareth Davies
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No ! Unfortunately the cable needs complete renewal.

Andy C

Reply to
Andy Cap

A new one would be dead easy to fit and very cheap

Reply to
stuart noble

There are no rules how long the pendant flex should be, it either looks odd, to your eye, or doesn't. I'm a little concerned that the OP may not have got the strain relief right in the ceiling fitting as the two moulded hooks to take each wire of the pendant cable at the ends of the terminal block are non-obvious. Not a biggie but...

Yep, if it "looks odd". B-)

Hum, given the OP's admitted lack of skill and knowledge is suggesting replacing the whole fitting and thus getting involved withe the fixed wiring wise?

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

No put a new bit of cable in that is longer.

Brian

Reply to
Brian Gaff

"Brian Gaff" wrote in news:ls7etn$1gp$1@dont- email.me:

Not sure he has expressed himself clearly - he is getting answers on "Flex" but he said "cable". Could he have shortened the cables that feed into the ceiling rose / fitting?

Reply to
DerbyBorn

But you don't usually talk of cable "hanging".

For what it is worth, I think it is the flex. Opening up the ceiling rose will usually reveal a connector block (more or less as described in OP as "terminal block"). Replacement of the flex is then simple - though needing care in selection, preparation (stripping insulation, etc.), and fitting.

Reply to
polygonum

How would that make it "look odd"?

Reply to
Andy Burns

Well we all have to learn but practice on a scrap bit of cable (he said being wise after the event :-)

Is this one of those with a chain that hooks the light fitting to a rose? Otherwise where's your strain relief? You'd have the weight of the light fitting being held on the wires going into the terminal block

- dangerous.

Reply to
Tim Streater

Many, many pendant lights rely on a not in the flex or some simple clip which fits above the hole in the fitting.

Reply to
polygonum

I don't think so. That wouldn't look odd - it simply wouldn't work!

Reply to
Roger Mills

And also needing care in deciding which terminals to use - assuming he didn't photograph the current setup before removing the flex. There's likely to be live, switched live, neutral and earth. The flex needs to be connected to switched live and neutral (and possibly earth if the fitting needs earthing). The switched live terminal may well be fed by a black or blue wire coming back from the switch - just to cause confusion. Yes, I know it should be sleeved - but I bet it ain't!

Reply to
Roger Mills

Assuming you mean the bit of flex that drops from the ceiling rose to a lamp holder, then just replace it with a length of 3A flex.

The wiring ought to be something like:

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Reply to
John Rumm

I usually just connect the end two wires to the old fitting. For a quid or so you get a nice clean rose, bulb holder and flex plus no wire stripping required

Reply to
stuart noble

Assuming its the dangling flex that's too short, replace the flex with another. No need to buy, any bit of mains flex will do - though better to avoid the heavier duty ones.

NT

Reply to
meow2222

So long as you remember to do it when you have daylight!

Reply to
Michael Chare

That's a description of a girlfriend.

Reply to
ARW

Aren't all ceiling roses defined as having the terminals to the pendant flex being the outer ones? That also how you get the mechanical strength to hold the light fitting as a ceiling rose is defined as having wire restraint hooks there as well to loop the two pendant wires around.

jgh

Reply to
jgh

NT

Reply to
meow2222

Most certainly not 'any old bit of flex'. For a BC or ES lampholder, which could still be fitted with a 100 W filament lamp, you need a 90 degree C (or higher) rated heat-resistant cord. The normal stuff to use is 3092Y - a 90 deg. grade PVC (BS 6141), readily available in B&Q, Screwfix, etc.. [OSG, Table 3B]

0.75 mm^2 is the most commonly used size, rated at 6 A and will support 3 kg. You can also use 0.5 mm^2 (3 A and 2 kg) or 1.0 mm^2, (10 A and 5 kg). [BS 7671 Table 4F3A]
Reply to
Andy Wade

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