Crumbling new Lime Mortar Pointing

Only a couple of feet (height)of wall can be built and then it has to be left to harden/dry out for a couple of weeks. Outside walls have to be covered to aid drying and stop rain leeching the lime out.

Reply to
harry
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They are repointing the medieval church tower close to me. The scaffolding has been up for months and the whole tower wrapped in woven plastic. Must be costing a fortune.

Reply to
harry

Lime in Building: A Practical Guide Paperback ? 1 Dec 1997 by Jane Schofield (Author)

A practical guide to the use of lime for repairing and redecorating old bui ldings. Suitable for homeowners, builders or even interested professionals who are unsure where to start or what to do. It contains basic, simple reci pes with easy rule-of-thumb measures and advice on preparation, techniques and materials. There is an up-to-date suppliers list.

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I bought a copy years ago from soewhere, amazon seems a trifle expensive

[george]
Reply to
DICEGEORGE

I seem to remember that you need two weeks without frost for lime mortar to set [g]

Reply to
DICEGEORGE

uildings. Suitable for homeowners, builders or even interested professional s who are unsure where to start or what to do. It contains basic, simple re cipes with easy rule-of-thumb measures and advice on preparation, technique s and materials. There is an up-to-date suppliers list.

Thanks for that George :-) , Construction Week`s free download of the same publication, bit cheaper than Amazon....

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on-lime-in-building.pdf

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Some Councils offer useful advice shock:

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Am now incumbent of 1869 , ex railway, building that has been previously ha d some well intentioned , but wrong, re pointing done in cement.

Haven`t seen Stuart here in a while, but can assure him that repointing a r ock faced stone building with cement is liable to blow the front of the sto ne off with frost.

The areas with open pointing have actually survived better.

Any tips on cutting cement out of the joins?

Reply to
Adam Aglionby

had some well intentioned , but wrong, re pointing done in cement.

rock faced stone building with cement is liable to blow the front of the s tone off with frost.

I don't think there's any magic formula. The advice is often do it by hand to minimise damage, but it's advice that doesn't make sense. Using an angle grinder very gently puts far less peak force onto the bick/stone than any manual smacking. The gentler the better.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

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