This is repairs to a Scots farm cottage some 200 years old which might well
have been re-pointed sometime in the last century using beach sand !!
I hadn't spotted until recently that the CI down pipe at the rear of the ho
use had split and was running water onto the wall. Split because the old s
oak away and clay agricultural pipes were solid with mud! There's now a tr
ench and big hole in the garden (thank goodness for neighbours who have a m
inidigger !) to address the drainage.
The pointing will need to be re-done in a small area and my understanding w
ith random rubble stone is that it should be lime based.
Can someone give any guidance on this please.
On Friday, April 18, 2014 6:53:51 PM UTC+1, robgraham wrote:
ll have been re-pointed sometime in the last century using beach sand !!
house had split and was running water onto the wall. Split because the old
soak away and clay agricultural pipes were solid with mud! There's now a
trench and big hole in the garden (thank goodness for neighbours who have a
minidigger !) to address the drainage.
with random rubble stone is that it should be lime based.
Quite so. 3:1 sand to builder's lime, just mix and use. The main difference
s with cement mixes are:
it takes ages to set/harden, you can mix a batch then continue using it nex
it can accomodate slight wall movement without causing significant damage
when it eventually fails it doesnt pull the surface off the stone like ceme
nt tends to
Speed of work is limited by its considerable slowness to harden - doesnt so
und like this will be a problem in your situation, if its only a narrow str
ip behind the pipe.
If you want it to look right, use the same sand colour and type as is alrea
dy there. Red, yellow or white, soft, sharp or a mix. Occasionally you also
get inclusions like shells or black specks. FWIW I dont think theres a big
problem with beach sand, its much like the sea dredged sand builders & DIY
ers widely use.
Cement & lime mixes behave like cement, and are not recommended. If you wan
t to read more on why lime should be used, SPAB have info on it. Periodprop
ertyforum also discusses it a fair bit, or did last time I was there.
On 19/04/2014 02:01, email@example.com wrote:
Talking to a guy the other day who was re-pointing a Victorian house in
sand/cement mortar after the front wall had been pressure washed rather
than sandblasted. Have to say the end result looked pretty damned good.
He said they use lime mortar a lot these days, and cover it with a
breathable membrane (landscape fabric?) for several weeks. Needless to
say, this is mostly on listed buildings, so I guess it must cost a lot more
On Saturday, April 19, 2014 9:41:06 AM UTC+1, stuart noble wrote:
lime & white cement look much the same
Lime and cement mortars are both very cheap, cement fractionally cheaper. The reason builders switched to OPC was the elimination of delays in building due to its quick setting.
Covering is only needed when frost threatens.
Water pressure was enough to blow all the old mortar (well, just sand
really) away, no need for raking. IME the movement issue has been
overstated. My house should have fallen down by now if the purists were
On Saturday, April 19, 2014 1:46:56 PM UTC+1, stuart noble wrote:
Its frequently overlooked, and houses damaged as a result. Look round any Vic housing area and you'll find the damage cement does to soft brick. The long delay between application and damage means a lot of people arent aware of the connection.
On Saturday, April 19, 2014 10:10:21 PM UTC+1, robgraham wrote:
The last time I was buying lime putty, I found the following sites
that would deliver:
(but I am in Cambridge, not out in the sticks in the Scottish
Beware delivery charges - the reason I had that list of URLs
was the spreadsheet working out the price/kg for approx 20kg
lime putty delivered *including delivery*.
On Monday, April 21, 2014 8:30:38 AM UTC+1, Martin Bonner wrote:
Thanks Adam and Charles
Not all old Scottish cottages are in the Highlands !! _I'm just 10 miles west of Edinburgh centre so Adam, that's a great link. Charles your list may not help me but I'm sure it will be of use to others - thanks to you both.
Coincidentally I only discovered recently that the largest lime pit at the time in Scotland was less than a mile away from me - it explains why the A71 takes a clear diversion at that point.
On Monday, April 21, 2014 7:56:14 PM UTC+1, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Bagged lime powder is usually hydraulic, that is, it sets quickly
once dampened, and doesn't need exposure to the air. I *like* the
slow setting nature of non-hydraulic lime. (Hydraulic lime also
doesn't have the same self-healing properties - it all sets, rather
than leaving a core of unset, which can set after the building
Also, I don't think it's a matter of "ready-mixed" putty. That's
how it is turns out after you slake it. Slaking quicklime to
give a dry powder is much more tricky.
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