Coving Joints and How To Do Them Without Tears

Smooth, easy, long, piston like strokes in a single cutting plane. No excessive pressure on box required. Decent sharp saw preferable! Watch where your elbow goes as you draw it back by your hip - get your hip out of the way! Get the action right on numerous scraps before the real cut. Hand held sawing takes a while to get the knack of, until then mitres will always be a bodge. I can now do them free hand with the odd pencil mark. It's all in the action!

-- Mike W

Buy the corners looks much better and give an expensive look to it. ;-)

I got mine from a local builders yard the corners fit over the ceiling coving,you just have to cut the coving straight and the ends slot into the corners.

Something like this.

meaning .One on these two pages perhaps .?

Most odd? it takes me to a corner coving.

Put 113011 in the search, as that is the code number for it.

Saw them but they would look totally out of place in a bathroom . I'll try this mitre box .

makes perfect, once you get your head round it, it's a doddle.

Strewth - what shape is your bathroom ?

I had one wrestling match with plaster coving and uneven walls, and that was enough. It's rumoured to be not too bad if your walls and ceilings are true, and you have a decent mitre saw, otherwise I'd go for the paper-coated expanded polystyrene variety.

Get a cheap mitre saw - I bought one for about £10 from a market vendor. Use support pins. Score the wall and paint with dilute PVA. Use sloping joints if you need to join lengths during a run - one inside corner and one outside corner. Dave

The bathrom is that shape because (a) there is a waste pipe that runs vertically the length of the building(flats) and that is boxed in so that accounts for 2 internal and 2 external corners and apart from the usual 4 internal corners ( 2 at each end) there is another part that extends out from one wall so that creats another internal and external corner .. The room is long and narrow . I've already bought the plaster coving so that is what I'll be using .I think it looks better anyway .

Stuart

I will be using pins while the adhesive sets but "Sloping Joints ?" What are they .?

Stuart

The message from "shaun" contains these words:

Make your own mitre box from scrap?

A vertical joint is very obvious where two pieces have to join on a run; if you cut one as an internal mitre and the other as an external mitre they fit together and it's easier to get an invisible joint. Think carefully about the cuts before committing hand to saw to coving!

Dave

I find it hard to get my head around those angles. This was very helpful;

I was watching a pro do some a few years back and he was using 'mason's corners' for the internal angles - much like the way skirting is put on, where one piece is applied straight into the corner, and the other is profiled to fit up against. Not recommending that you should try it, just commenting that it was how the pro put the stuff up.

A while ago I had to "tee" some 5" coving into an existing run; I was dreading the job but it actually wasn't too bad - although lots of trial and error needed.

Dave

Aye - as long as you can get the angles correct for the mitre slots...

"Take care that you are cutting the angle in the right direction, it's very easy to get confused. "

They are dead right about that last bit ..lol

Stuart