concrete base

In article , Ian writes

For a basic shed I can't see any problem with a wooden floor levelled up with bricks and shims. Do you have any heavy stuff that would benefit from a concrete floor?

As (I assume) that price includes labour (1 man day probably) and shuttering etc, I'd say that's very reasonable for the size and quantity of concrete that will go into it.

sounds about right pricewise if it is materials and labour

have a look at

I would agree with other posts

there is really no need for a concrete base at all if the asphalt is flat and level side to side just put the underfloor bearers on bricks or blocks

Regards

Tony

Why would you put concrete on asphalt anyway, it would make a nice run off.

It's a shed. You just make one end bigger than the other and put the door on the downhill side. If it is a prefab, you put concrete blocks on one end and lay the thing out on that.

Why would you put concrete on asphalt anyway, it would make a nice run off.

It's a shed. You just make one end bigger than the other and put the door on the downhill side. If it is a prefab, you put concrete blocks on one end and lay the thing out on that.

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Thanks for the replies. Original plan was indeed to put the shed directly onto the asphalt. Supplier of shed (it's a quality shed, not a B&Q matchboard one) says it won't last nearly as long unless its on a level base. Says "packing bearers and shims will do, but it's a bodge" We have managed to get base price down to £380.

-- Ian

In article , Ian writes

That's a worrying response, it implies that the 'quality' shed has a floppy floor. If the supplier's concern about longevity is due to rot them he has misunderstood as the suggestion was to stand the floor off the asphalt with bricks or blocks to keep it clear of damp. The use of packing pieces on top of the bricks/blocks to create a level surface for the floor members is not a bodge.

That said however, your shed, your choice.

there are sites which sell shed base systems with adjustable feet (Although I would use blocks or bricks as in previous post) for this purpose

The method is certainly not a bodge and has advantages over the solid base system in that the timbers are off of the surface so clear of any water that may collect and there is ventilation under the shed.

I use a solid base where the shed needs a really solid floor eg when being used as a workshop

your money your choice

Regards

Tony

Two years ago, I dug up part of the front garden lawn and put down 6 inches of hardcore. Used a whacker to compact it and laid 18 slabs in a 3 x 6 pattern on a 2 inch bed of 1:6 mortar. It was deliberately designed to be sloping for rain water run off, with a slope of 2 inches along 6ft.

I then bought a 4ft by 6ft shed. It had a plywood floor with 4 strips of wood on it. Obviously I wanted the shed to be level.

I bought 4 off 6ft long 2inch wide by 4 inch high decking joists.I chose these as they are apparently pressure treated against rotting and would be a better choice than rough sawn flooring joists..

I then used a circular saw and planer to make them into wedges so that when laid on the slabbed base, the top surfaces were level.

I then screwed the plywood floor to to the decking wedges and built the shed on it.

This way I get good rain drain off, good venilation under the shed, the use of decking grade wood reduces the wet rot and to ensure the shed was level.

Regards

Stephen.

Agree.