Choc bloc caps

This is all extra low voltage, right, as it's going directly to the LEDs?

Could you use one of the very small ABS boxes that CPC and others sell?

Bill

Why are you not using a fused spur unit to connect the mains cable in the w all to the transformer? These can also have a switch to control the LV ligh ting. I would only use the choc blocks on the 12v side. Suitable choc block s can be used for mains voltage but like you said need to be enclosed and t he rules on an enclosure are quite stringent about wether tools or other im plements can be pushed through any openings and come in contact with live p arts.

Richard

In message , at 11:23:35 on Tue, 12 Nov

In message , at 11:25:19 on Tue, 12 Nov

That's about 10x the internal volume of what I'm looking for.

In message , at

That's all I'm proposing to do. And also making sure there are no exposed parts, as well as looking as neat as possible.

The 240v side (apart from the light switch itself, which previously powered 240v lights under cabinets I've removed) isn't in the kitchen.

Well look at the others in the range then.

Bill

Is this what you are looking for ?

Rob

In message , at 12:50:53 on Tue, 12 Nov

I'd prefer something that was designed to do the job, rather than could be adapted to do the job.

In message , at

Once again, far too big. I would really like something that was a maximum of 15mm x 15mm x 10m (length-width-depth)

In message , at 13:20:47 on Tue, 12 Nov

x 10mm

Why does the size matter so much? They're going to be out of sight, surely? I would have thought a box one or two inches across wouldn't matter under a kitchen unit.

Have you looked at RS? They have all sorts of weird things.

Or what about some of the little clip-on covers that alarm contractors use for the ends of flexible jumper leads?

Why not forget choc blocks and use a tiny purpose-made terminal box?

I've just had a look at my under-cabinet lighting and the connections are in ABS boxes about the size of a matchbox. These boxes have in no way detracted from the appearance of the kitchen since they are invisible to anyone who is three feet or more tall. The valuation of the house has been unaffected, and I don't think that the boxes have spoilt my life in any way.

Bill

In message , at 15:03:22 on Tue, 12 Nov

There's a skirt (or whatever it's called) around the bottom of the wall-hung units, but it's only about two inches deep and you can see the bottoms of the units pretty well.

I tried.

No idea what they are.

That would be just as good, if I could find one. A cover for a choc-bloc would be even simpler.

That might just work - it's the depth that would intrude.

The bottom of my cabinets are exactly at my eye level, and I'm more than

How about using some wago connectors instead:

If it is only for the 12v supply to the LEDs why not use the junction boxes used for telephone extensions this should be small enough and discreet eno ugh to be out of sight behind the valence strip under your cupboards. I ins talled some LED lights at my previous house, these came with similar juncti on boxes from the supplier. LEDs are very low current devices so the phone junction boxes should easily cope with the current demand.

Richard

In message , at

The boxes will need to go at the back, next to the wall, so the valence doesn't hide them hardly at all.

In message , at

The WAGOBOX would be OK, if it was a quarter of the size!

Could you put the gubbins inside the cupboards, in the bottom corners?

Bill

How about making some boxes from glass fibre?

Bill