I would consider fitting a frost stat, and turn the CH off.
If the temperature plummets below the setting of the frost stat it
will override the CH setting and turn the system on, to raise the
temperature by a few degrees.
This can be better than leaving the CH on as you would typically set
it to come on/go off on a timer - if the temperature plummeted outside
of the timed "on" period(s) then the system will have to cope until
the next on period.
Not so with the frost stat.
A frost stat is a fail safe mechanism in that is brings on the CH even if
the time clocks are off. It is best to have the system set to 12C. Below
10C the furnishings can start to be effected with cold and damp.
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"Dave Plowman" wrote
| IMM wrote:
| > Below 10C the furnishings can start to be effected with cold and damp.
| The IMM misinformation machine in overdrive...
I had a previous computer keyboard that refused to work in the mornings
until I'd got the temperature in the lounge up to about 15-16C.
Mind you, I was a bit sluggish at those temperatures too.
The most tellin exapmples of temperature sensitivity I came across were
in pretty much teh forts and last bits of hardware I ever built.
The first one was a kit radio reciever. It stopped working in teh sun.
It tokk me about 4 more years to understand why, and realise that at teh
tender age f 16, I was now a better designer than teh bloke who designed
..the last was in a sqweaty basement of a computer manufacturing
company, with an 8088 in circuit emulator. It used to start to show crap
about lunchtime. I remembered my early exoeriences, and we read teh fine
prnt on the case 'operating range 0-25 degreec C ambient).
We begged a thermometer off the hardware boys, and stuck it on the case.
Sure enough, and 26 degrees, it packed up,.
We got our air conditioning after that..
Most consumer electronics is good for 0-50C. LCD's pack up under heat,
Howbver the reality of teh cxomplexcity of digital design often means
that the odd sample board with tolerances all the wrong way will not do
the full temp range, even tho every component will, to its spec. Only
mil spec equipment is designed so that it works with EVERY component at
with commercial eqpt, its a design so that 99% will work in average user
conditions, and replace the other 1% under warranty. Cheaper.
The OP was concerned about protecting against pipe rupture if the
pipes froze. The actual setting of the frost stat isn't particularly
important here, so long as it is on the positive side of zero degrees.
I've always worked on the principle of a frost stat being set to about
5C for protecting pipework. Nowt wrong with 12C, though the boiler
might be burning more often than is strictly necessary.
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