Cable clamp in metal lampshade?

[Mike Halmarack]

Hello,

I'm working on replacing a lamp holder in the shade of a stainless steel angle lamp.

Where the flat cable passes through the side of the shade was a plastic cable clamp which I had to cut off. I think it had been fitted using heat, as it gripped tight with no screw or other tightening method apparent.

The clamp seemed to grip the shade by having expanded in the entry hole.

Is there much hope of me finding such a clamp for sale?

Or is there a heat resistant material to make one from, that's more suitable than Sugru?

[spuorgelgoog]

Something like this?

Owain

[Mike Halmarack]

That's exactly it! Thanks a lot.

[newshound]

That's the usual design, but for a semi-permanent fix I can't see anything wrong with using Sugru. I've also used hot-melt adhesive for this sort of thing in the past, especially in comparatively cool regions.

[Mike Halmarack]

I ordered some Sugru for the job initially, but as link to the real thing was kindly offered, I'll now be using the Sugru to make a knob for the kettle whistle.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

You can buy screw less ones which compress against the cable to fit a shaped hole, then expand to grip that hole. Maplin used to sell them. But a gland type is probably easier. Available in a variety of sizes.

Factory made stuff often had moulded on things which can't be re-used - like 13 amp plugs.

[Mike Halmarack]

That sounds easy to apply, though on closer inspection the link Owain sent showed exactly the same object that I cut out.

Might pop into Maplins then, they still seem quite busy around these parts.

Yes I keep finding loads of those when I'm looking for a replacement.

[Roger Hayter]

These types of bush have 2 or 3 hole size variants (mainly 12mm, 12.7mm and ?15mm main diameter with flat sides) and even more cable size variants, including one for *flat* cable rather than round. They can be bodged but the right size is easier.

[Dave Plowman (News)]

The thing with the Maplin type - I've still got a few - is that it requires exactly the right hole in the panel to work, and the hole isn't round (to stop it rotating) So I tend to prefer the gland type where a backing nut holds it in place. Although those can also have flats in the hole to prevent rotation if the nut comes loose.

[Mike Halmarack]

Yes, a few more complications to deal with. Thanks for helping me avoid tose pitfalls.

[Mike Halmarack]

Would the backing nut be on the outside? Not much room inside.

[Terry Casey]

Ah well, you're nowhere near me, then, because our Maplin store closed months ago - I didn't even know there were any left!

Otherwise I'm sure I've got a box of 13A to hot condition connectors in the garage, more than I will ever need.

[Andy Burns]

They were still open, back in May.