Bowsaw

[PeterC]

Need to get a bowsaw for use this Winter as the spinney at the bottom of the garden has been advancing for a few years. Nothing too big: there's an ash tree that's about 10cm thick and will soon be tall enough to fall on the hose and some hawthorn of similar size.

I looked at this:

should be big enough and wondered if it's reasonable.

As for spare blades, there's only this:

gets v. bad reviews. Given that a blade will wear out or break before I've done the job, what are the alternatives? I prefer somewhere local rather than on t'net, so a shed is likely.

Cheers.

[The Wanderer]

Why not try a local 'country' or farm store? Had my bowsaw for donkeys years and only on the second or third blade.

[NT]

Bowsaws are quicker, but by the time you've gone and got one for such little wood, it would have been far quicker to get out a basic handsaw and do it. If you were doing a whole bunch of much bigger stuff then yes I'd get a bow.

NT

[Andy Champ]

The other advantage is that I don't have to worry about damaging my carpentry tools with green wood, damp ground, and falling debris.

Andy

[The Medway Handyman]

Got mine from Wickes, seems fine to me.

[PeterC]

Good point - there's a Central Wool Growers in Towcesetr.

[PeterC]

I've done that but when one is up a tree and holding on with one hand, the handsaw clogs up and gets stuck. I've other wood to cut up as well, so I felt that a bowsaw would just be easier.

[PeterC]

Saw or blade? That blade has 3 v. bad reviews.

[george (dicegeorge)]

Bowsaws:

i think there are 2 kinds of blades, most cut dead wood, but there are special blades for cutting green wood.

[g]

[The Medway Handyman]

Saw c/w blade. Had it for a few years, still on the original blade, not used that much TBH, but still works a treat.

[John Rumm]

And, next time you do the job you will have the saw ready ;-)

[R]

2 types of blade used. 1 for "normal" dry timber such as flooring, joists and the like. 1 for green wood used naturally on live/wet wood and recently felled (Wind damaged etc)

Several types and lengths of "Bow Saw" used, pruning and the traditional Bow Saw.

If looking to fell small trees use a hard point "Green" wood blade.

There are dozens of saws on Ebay with plenty of blades to choose from and are cheap.

Spear and Jackson for longevity, or anyone else's for the "Throw away" type is it's likely to be used only a few times. Horses-for-courses etc.

As an alternative you could check out Item 380161009301 on Ebay, used one for clearing a small copse of unwanted saplings to give more space for other growth, worked well enough.

[dennis]

I have a S&J "hand" saw with normal teeth at one end and the big greenwood teeth at the end nearest the handle. It will cut 4" stuff with ease.

If there is a lot then I have a £15 PP power saw that takes 10" greenwood blades.

[PeterC]

Right, thanks, so the original blade's OK. Sod's Law though...

[PeterC]

That's useful info., thanks. A greenwood blade should be what I need.

I'd rather avoid e-bay as I don't trust it or Paypal and also I'd rather find something locally if it's not silly money. I hate staying in for vandroids.

[PeterC]

I'll have a look for that - it makes sense to have the versatility - thanks.

[Roger Chapman]

I got my bowsaw at the local ironmongers. likewise replacement blades. He sells at least 2 makes of blades and I have long since learned that it is not cost effective to buy the cheapest.

If you are going to be digging out the roots it helps if you leave the main trunk attached until after the root is out. If not then be aware that with the hawthorn at least the root will produce a multitude of sprouts and quickly turn into a small bush.

On bigger stuff I tend to use an axe rather than a bowsaw and I use a mattock for digging out and cutting roots.

Incidentally I had an ash like yours in my garden 30 years ago but missed the chance to take it out when it was still manageable. It is now at least twice the height of the house and the trunk is well over a foot thick. If I ever have to drop it it is going to cause considerable damage to something, even if it is just a wall.

[NT]

Sounds good, if you like handsaws. I tend to use a circular for small trees these days, it has one major gotcha that's avoidable, and that's that wind or timber weight can close up on the blade, and the saw can then throw at the user. 2 solutions to this are:

1. for small trees, rope them pulled over to one side
2. use a cordless circ, which is low power enough to be easily held if it tries to kick.

NT

[PeterC]

Indeed, false economy - and if it's local, complaining is easier.

No digging of roots! I don't mind them being bushes then trimming them every few years. The hawthorn was cut back hard and is now an attractive bush.

I'll use a ladder and take it down in bits - there's nowhere to fell a tree.

When the spinney is trimmed back the local firm takes the big 'uns incrementally.

[Steve Firth]

I buy Sandvik bowsaws and blades for use on the farm. I get them from agricultural suppliers rather than from Screwfix et al. If I were you, I'd also consider getting a proper pruning saw, because it's difficult to use a bowsaw for pruning unless you have good access all round.

We make a lot of use of these:

can't praise them highly enough. Extremely well made. They cut on the pull stroke and have a double row of teeth that are as sharp as razors. They cut through green wood faster than a bowsaw and can be used to cut close up to the trunk.