Bourne Seal best for Parquet?

[Jake]

Hi All,

I know there are FAQs and questions about sanding/treating floors are indeed frequently asked. But I don't think there's a one-size-fits-all answer to these problems.

Here's my scenario: I've laid some reclaimed pitch pine parquet blocks in a room. You can read all about it and see the photos on my blog:

this weekend I want to sand and treat it. It's the treating bit I am confused about. From what I've read on here I think Bourne Seal may be the way to go. Can anybody back this up? Or offer a better suggestion.

What I don't want to do is just slap some cheapo quick-drying Wickes floor varnish down. I want to be "sympathetic" to the wood and produce a long-lasting, durable and most importantly natural-looking finish.

If Bourne Seal is the best then where do I get it? Is it "Bourne Seal" of "Bourneseal" and who makes it?

Googling for "Bourne Seal" I only find one or two distibutors. I'd prefer to actually go and buy it from an outlet so I know I've got it by the weekend.

Another idea was to use Yacht Varnish. Any thoughts?

Jake Howlett DIYer

[Dave]

Hi Jake

Bourneseal is an oleo-resinous floor seal made by Johnsons. That's the brand leader and has become the generic name, like we call all vacuum cleaners 'Hoovers'.

Many other companies make oleo-resinous floor seals and they are excellent.

Look in your local Yellow Pages for Janitorial Suppliers and make a few calls. Almost all of them will stock bourneseal or the same thing under a different name.

The good thing about oleo-res sealers is that they sink into the wood rather than just forming a coating on the surface. They are often used in school halls to prevent splinters.

Best of all, they re coat easily. After a while any floor seal will show wear in high traffic areas, doorways etc. With an oleo- res seal you can give they area a light sanding and re coat it so it blends in with the rest.

This is difficult to do with varnish and almost impossible with two pack sealers. Only downside is a longish drying time and a solvent smell.

Dave

[Ash]

I buy Bourne Seal about every six months to go down on a Scout Hall Floor. It costs about £50.00 a tin from Travis Perkins and 1½ tins does our 15 x 10 metre hall (one coat). It's applied by roller and the whole floor is done in an hour or so.

As

[Jake]

Thanks Dave,

I assume you meant Johnstone's

can't find anything on their site about bourneseal or oleo-resinous coating.

The more I look for this stuff the confused I become.

Time to call Johnstone's...

Jake

Dave wrote:

[Jake]

Thanks Ash,

What kind of finish do you get from it? Is it glossy and would you say it "did the wood justice"?

Jake

[Dave]

They used to be called Johnson Wax and were based in Frimley, Surrey. Now merged and called Johnson Diversay.

Dave

[Sam]

"Bourne Seal" (TM I believe) is sold under the Cuprinol brand. A search on "Bourne Seal Cuprinol" brings up some UK suppliers.

B&Q used to sell it (and were suprisingly cheapest for it round here!) but IIRC the last time I looked there they didn't have it anymore, only Ronseal products.

Bourne Seal is a lovely flooring finish for wood, really brings the colour and character out which then develops over time. Not as hardwearing as Acrylic finishes but they always look dull and plastic to me - might as well have laminate IMHO.

Beware, don't buy "Quick Drying Bourne Seal" also by Cuprinol. It is either acrylic or maybe Poly Urethane? Anyway it looks cr*p, Cuprinol are really stupid using the name Bourne Seal for a such an inferior product.

HTH

Sam

[Ash]

We usually go for the satin finish. I think the first time it was done when the floor was new a gloss finish was applied and you could see your face in the finish. Have a look here for a couple of photos:

The floor gets a hammering and it needs redoing every six months.

It's only a softwood floor (we didn't have the money for hardwood) but it is standing up quite well and I'm sure the Bourne Seal is helping.

Ash

[Jake]

Thanks for the photos Ash. I didn't realise the result would be quite so shiny and I might have to re-evaluate my idea. Maybe linseed and bees-wax...

Jake

[Andy Hall]

Boiled linseed oil, turpentine and a little beeswax as a mix works very well on oak and does not give a highly shiny effect at all - just a rich natural look.. It's also easy to maintain.

I haven't tried it on parquet, but it would be easy enough to try on a small area to see what you think

[Kalico]

I have had excellent results with OsColor (correct spelling) Hardwax Oil. I think it has been re-named recently due to a copyright infringement but any good decorators merchants can source it.

It's from Germany and not cheap but it is good. A mix of natural oils and waxes and I have yet to speak to anyone who has a bad thing to say about it.

Some details are here

Rob

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[KEITH ODGERS]

replying to Jake, KEITH ODGERS wrote: hi jake I used to do all schools parquet flooring and I would highly recommend bourne seal just make sure you apply with lambs wool applicator for best results good luck

[Andrew]

Dec 15th 2004. Is this a record ?.

[The Natural Philosopher]

pretty sure we had a 2002...

[AlexK]

Fraid not. There was another 15 years late. Close tho.

[Brian Gaff]

No, I don't think so. However the advice is probably still OK. Lambs wool, Baaaaaa humbug?

Brian