Bolting post holders to paving flags

I need to put some post holders sitting on some standard paving flags, and will therefore likely be bolting post holders onto the flags.

a) what size bolts would you put in? b) how would you stop the anchor in the drilled hole from falling in too far? c) would you drill all the way through the flag or just deep enough for the anchor?

Or would you take a completely different course of action?

Thanks!

Matt

Reply to
matthew.larkin
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Use a suitable size Multi Monte

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things!

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Mathew,

I'm replying through the Medway Handyman as I have filtered all gmail and hotmail accounts to prevent spamming.

What are the post holders for, i.e to take a fence or some other purpose?

The normal 'flag' depth is around 11/4" with some pure concrete ones (as used on public street paving) going up to 2" in depth, so you don't have too much of a depth for a load bearing fixing.

That would depend on what load (wind load usually) that you want it to carry - could you expand on that?

Tanner-'op

Reply to
Tanner-'op

Sorry if you don't see this. I like googlegroups for posting as it means I can do it on multiple PCs including ones I don't "own".

The purpose is to hold some posts for decking (yes, very 90's, but SWMBO likes them). There is a small path running around the house so

3 of the 4 posts required along the back of the house need to sit on the paving flags. I don't want to take up the flags so free-standing post holders bolted into the flags seems the best way to approach them. I don't want to bolt a ledger board to the house as there are drain pipes in the way.

Basically there shouldn't be much (if any) lateral pressures on the holders to move. In fact, I suppose they could almost be completely free standing as there will be 13 other posts concreted into the ground to support the remainder of the frame. But I'd like to secure them nonetheless as they can then be the reference points for the remainder of the deck.

Matt

Reply to
matthew.larkin

You can bolt ledger boards to the house wal around the pipes - it doesn't have to be one continuous board - as long as all boards are level.

You really don't need 13 posts in the ground. Just making work. One at each corner and a ledger board/boards bolted to the house in two locations give you all you need in terms of square. I've easily got 5m x 5m decks square to within 5mm on the diagonals this way.

The support posts can stand on 400mm x 400mm (reject grade) concrete slabs on firm ground or concrete blocks if required.

Decks don't really move laterally very much at all. What you need to ensure is that they don't move up or down so to speak.

HTH if you need more info. I've built dozens of decks, 5 so far this year.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

There's some down in part of our local garden centre, mainly around the approach to the tea shoppe. Had a *lot* of rain over the last couple of days (East Anglia) and the stuff is lethal - as the saying goes 'slippery when wet'. It's been bad enough to make me think I'd never put the stuff down.

If you can get SWMBO to somewhere where there's some down, try and do so when it's piddling down. At least you'll be making an informed decision then!

Reply to
The Wanderer

We've had bucket loads of rain in the last 8 years and ours has never been even remotely slippery.

Depends on the surface of the board, the correct gaps & laying it (like a patio) to a slight fall.

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

================================== I think you should avoid any kind of expansion fixing as paving slabs crack quite easily. I would suggest that you consider 'chemical fixings' like these:

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haven't tried these myself but I would certainly use them if I needed a non-expanding fixing for the kind of use you have in mind.

Cic.

Reply to
Cicero

And I should imagine location. Somewhere in full sun won't grow the slippy algae layer were as under trees or shaded probably will.

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Makes sense. Our deck goes green but still isnt slippery.

The wanderer mentioned it was outside the teashop - grease from stacks possibly?

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Stacks of what?

Reply to
Andy Hall

But I assume that your deck has proper decking boards with the deep grooves at 10 to 15mm spacing and the tops between the grooves also grooved but only a mm or two. As you said the surface of the boards will make a big difference as well. Smooth planed is ice rink material...

Reply to
Dave Liquorice

Errm. Stacks of snacks...

Reply to
The Medway Handyman

Dave

Thanks - popped into screwfix for some multi montis - they look the part!

I understand what you're saying about ledger boards, but I'd still like to leave something of a gap between the deck and the house, just so that I've got ready access to the drains more than anything else.

I think I will take on board the comments about the concreted posts though - 16 in total did feel a lot (4.8m x 4.5m deck, so I was putting 4 x 4 at maximum 1.6m centres). The last deck I did all the posts (even the edges) were straight onto blocks bedded firmly down, and it didn't move an inch. But I'd like to go a little more permanent with this one, so I still think I'll concrete the four corners.

Ta!

Matt

Reply to
matthew.larkin

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