In message , Doctor Drivel writes
And then get his own CE registration ?
In message , Doctor Drivel writes
And then get his own CE registration ?
Maxie, fatastic I suppose he could. How many forms does he need to fill?
Yep. That is one relay.
No. The stat from BES, the store stat, switches two relays a that bring in the boiler and pump. Have a permanent live at the boiler. This could have a timer to set DHW and bring in the store before the CH timer switches in to ensure the store is charged and the heat is immediately dumped into the house. Best to use a better store stat if you can. One that has a delay to stop cycling. But the volume of water in the store will stabilise it to a degree.
If the boiler does not need one then it is not needed. If it does need one, then fit a timer that activates the pump when power off, set to a minute or two. The boiler relay deenergised and the pump relay stays energised.
The DHW pump need not be on a timer. A simple flow switch switches it in whe DHW is called. Farnell do one. V good:
The whole thing will cost the prices of a flow switch, cylinder stat and three relays. If you want a stat/programmer then extra. The integral clock can be used for DHW, but if you want a remote smart timer the extra. Quite cheap to do.
OK not a good in function as the pcb but simple. BTW, insert a relay controlling the boiler. Gledhill pcb's have the habit of blowing when a boiler pcb blows. Putting in a relay to switch the boiler prevents this. The pcb doesn't care if it switches a relay or boiler
For basic current operation.
F**k off you stupid Jock.
I think that the magic phrase is the advertisers' delight "up to". An open flue CI boiler with a pilot light probably has an in-use efficiency of 55%, an condensing boiler, 85%, so that's a 35% saving. Then many older systems have oversized boilers (loft insulation and double glazing having been done since) and poor (by current standards) controls, so 40% is perfectly possible in lots of cases.
But having said this, if you have a boiler that is working well, then there is almost certainly no economic case for replacing it - as a DIY project, perhaps, professionally installed no. If you're in a mains gas area the same applies to installing double glazing and solar panels.
What's a "CE registration"? You might need registration for Corgi, Part Q, or Dennis' local Neighbourhood Watch, but CE is so open it means nothing.
In a boiler, it has to be fit for purpose, If you use a control which isn't manufacturer approved and there's a problem, you would have to prove that it wasn't your modification that wasn't the cause
It's why we're careful only to repair and not modify pcbs
There we go then. Anyone interested in this thread should be warned that this poster lies through his teeth, and nothing he writes is to be trusted.
[snip]
Terry, you should be warned that not so long ago dribble had to ask how to wire a two way switch. So you can take it he knows nothing about electrics and can't be trusted. Following his advice will likely be dangerous. He is not qualified in any way to give this sort of technical help.
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes
I don't think that he lies as such, he just makes it up as he goes along
depends what the brochure says
Despite some of them crying out for modification?
Absolutely
but ...
the moment I modify rather than repair, it's no longer the same pcb
The 40% business is a lie. Even an idiot could find out that just isn't true - let alone one who must spend all his life Googling such things.
Dave Plowman (News) ( snipped-for-privacy@davenoise.co.uk) wibbled on Sunday 02 January 2011
23:53:
One word:
hacksaw...
Thanks for the tips. I've saved your messages for future use, as this is the sort of thing I'd like to investigate doing when the weather's better and the garage isn't freezing.
TF
Well, to be fair, when the PCB blew in the Boilermate I started to think about a simpler system that could be installed as a temporary measure while the board was being repaired or replaced, having been caught out by the new board being trapped in the pre-Christmas snow-bound backlog.
All the external connections are via multiway circuit-board plugs, so it would be a matter of moments to connect the backup system and get some control.
It seemed a good idea, and I appreciated the comments from all concerned - after all, it's me that will design and build the thing, if I ever get that round tuit.
TF
You should be careful what you say.. mattyf said he used a hacksaw to cut plastic pipe in a recent post. If he can do so its probably not a problem doing so. I can only guess that others that have used a hacksaw on plastic pipe didn't deburr it.
Is the PCB all surface mount components? If not, I'd say any repair would be easier than a total re-jig of it.
Yes, it's all 'proper' through-the-board components, so replacement should be straightforward.
TF
In message , "dennis@home" writes
Dennis, denise, dennse
Go and check out the gg archive, don't guess
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