Half considering doing a DSR return...
I'm replacing some nearly knackered locks and adding a cylinder rim lock to the french doors to augment the mortice.
Got a couple of the Yale type 82's which are deadbolts (ie cannot slam shut behind you):
Checking it out and reading the destructions, it has the weirdest requirement I have never seen before:
The lock cylinder flat bar must be trimmed to project
Should be trivial to pull on the tongue and cut it at 5mm
NT
Surely this is normal on cylinders, to cope with varying door thicknesses. The tongues are often "crimped" at intervals and can be snapped to length with pliers, avoiding even the need for a hacksaw.
It is - the moan is that if that's misjudged (perhaps by someone less careful) or the bar comes further adrift for any reason, it leads to a HIGHLY unfavourable failure mode.
Cut it a mm or 2 shorter and it becomes likely it will not engage correctly or will wear and slip out.
2mm undercut = 3mm of engagement!!! In a slightly rounded and slightly sloppy pivot thing.This is poor engineering - and I am still surprised.
It's normal to trim the bar to have about 15mm projection and it's never been critical (+/-5mm would be fine with still plenty of tolerance left) on any lock I've had apart.
And no lock I have ever seen before (not many to be fair) has had the ability for a too-long a bar to jam the mechanism. The worst that would happen is you wouldn't be able to get the lock home properly when fitting back on the door.
The things I never thought about until I had a reason to fiddle....
Actually worse - remember that 1-1.5mm of slop I mentioned?
1.5-2mm engagement!!!!!
I understand better now. It does seem to be poor design. Has the Yale name recently been acquired by a business without any history in locks?
Dunno - the rest of the lock is very well made. This bit seemed to escape them.
I dare say 99% of the time it's never a problem - it's the 1% with flames licking my arse that worries me -
either that or I just cannot stand "preventable at almost no cost" design weaknesses.
Maybe the problem here is the assumption that Yale is quality. Wickes do some good ones - or did when I last bought.
NT
snipped-for-privacy@care2.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:
Possibly all made in the Chinese Lock Factory - for badging as required.
There's a difficulty working out exactly what the problem is and where this "deep hole" is located. Normally with all cylinder locks the bar comes through the hole in the door through the backplate and enters the body of the lock, at the hub. In a figure of eight type hole. On this side the knob/handle is on this end of the hub. The only restriction on the length of the bar is that it doesn't hit the knob on this side of the door. Otherwise it normally goes all the way through.
Here's a video showing the fitting a spring latch, rather than a dead bolt. Assuming most of the components are the same except for the bolt, could you stop the video at the appropriate point, post this, and where exactly the location is of the hole you're talking about.
Again when you talk about a slab of metal, the only slab of metal moving around in a lock should be the bolt itself.
It might help if you printed word for word what it says in the fitting instructions including the section heading etc.
michael adams
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I fitted a Toolstation night latch the other day, only to find it was identical to the original, which was at least 25 years old, and possibly a good deal older. No need to replace cylinder or mounting plate this time but the basic engineering didn't seem to have changed.
I should not be surprised - brand name trading and all that.
But the X5 cylinder (6 pin key) does not seem bad, apart from the soft iron "circlip".
Thanks - I will DSR what I have and check them out - before I leave the store!
A roller-bolt version is more common and will do just as well.
Given the similarity of Yale and unbranded ones you do wonder.
And it would be typical chinese factory to make it look nice and then save 1p on a decent circlip.
Yes - that is what I refer to.
And no, on the type 82 lock, it does nto go all the way through - it's only allowed to go 5mm into the figure-8 hole or it fouls a sliding plate behind the hole.
Normally. But not with the type 82 - there's a heavy plate that connects to the bolt that slides across.
Does the Yale lock do what you want, anyway?
My Yale deadlock can be locked with a key from the inside to prevent someone from breaking the glass and reaching in and turning the knob. Yours doesn't appear to do this.
Also, mine can be slammed shut - but shutting the door compresses a little snib which prevents the latch from being levered open.
That'd be the PBS{1,2}? Only slightly annoying things is that if you change the cylinder you then need 2 keys henceforth.
Despite that, we have one on the front door - with an electric release too.
Or the No. 1 autodeadlocking nightlatch, I used to have one of those until I changed the front-door.
Same applies.
Tim Watts wrote in news:p01l8b-gt3.ln1 @squidward.local.dionic.net:
How many factories does the world need to supply such locks and have an efficient production line? I suggest one! When you watch programmes such as "How it is made", it makes you realise how efficient modern production lines can be - but they need the volume in order to invest in the set-up costs.
Yes - it's got exactly the correct action - that's why I went for it.
Totally. I don't want that. I value the kids getting out in a fire over security.
I will also be fitting a letterbox cowl too which makes that harder.
And when we are out, we lock the mortice/sash lock too which does need a key form both sides.
Both the deadbolt (82) and the rollerbolt (81) cannot be "carded" - the bolt can only be moved by the knob or key, not by pressing on the snd of the bolt.
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