BG / Netaheat / red sticker.

Feb 07, 2009 29 Replies

If the parts are not corroded or otherwise damaged, in other words not significantly different from how they were new, then I don't see an issue with it. I'm not so familiar with the Netaheat, but more so with the Profile and Netaheat Profile (bloody naming system!) and they do leak small amounts through the grommets at the bottom of the sealed chamber through which the various cables and sensor tubes pass, and this is acceptable. (Can't remember offhand where I learned that so don't ask for chapter & verse.)

Although positive pressure at that point, it's fresh inlet air. I can't see anyway you could end up with flue gasses there, with the burners still firing (at least in the Profile, which is the only one of these I'm familiar with).

Thanks guys (n all etc).

BG missed their SLA response time again today so mate called the independent Corgi guy who originally removed the faulty fan (when the BG guy couldn't) and he popped round fitted a new fan. He re-connected the gas, leak / other tested the unit and left with my mates house warming up for the first time in over a week.

I wonder how much luck mate will have recouping his costs?

3rd party CORGI engineer (twice) 4 x fan heater [1] (and running costs over gas equivalent heating). 1 x immersion heater wiring (and extra running costs). Numerous phone calls, inconvenience, loss of earnings etc.

Cheers, T i m

[1] That he went and got in the snow when the BG engineer couldn't come out 'because of the snow'.

All I did was clean up the track (gets surprisingly mucky considering the slot is underneath, doesn't it?) and apply some PTFE lubricant. I have the bay window kit on mine and the drag is greater than on a simple straight length.

I left the motor alone on the grounds that it wasn't broke but, like you say, handy to know they're around in case of need...

It's a shame the new people don't do curved/bay kits.

I've not looked yet! ;-(

Is that the right stuff? It seems they suggest silicone on the places I've seen?

I bet. Ours is just a straight 3.5m bit the old motor still seems to be doing a fair bit of work.

Hmm, I was intrigued to see if there were any gears / bearing etc that might enjoy a clean / lube but it looked like the case is held on by a couple of plastic 'clips', the sort that might snap if you tried to release them after 20 years ...

Yup.

I thought they did, to special order (or am I imagining it)?

Cheers, T i m

Maybe not, but it seems to work. It's that favourite class of product, i.e 'Whateversaround' (It's actually one of those cans the garage leaves you when you've had your car serviced. You know, the one they give you out of the kindness of their hearts...)

When I first found that site, I distinctly remember it saying aluminium track, straight lengths only, cannot be cut down, but a quick Google turns up this:

Which says a maximum of two bends. So you didn't imagine it :o)

I have Powercord units here. They are a separate motor which works with any corded track. Based on Garrard turntable motors - with two sets of windings - one for each direction. They're pushing 40 years old but still work just fine - the only part which needs replacing at intervals is the drive rubber which is just a large grommet, and available from RS, etc. The beauty of good back yard engineering - use as many standard parts as possible.

Blessum (and no, I've never had a car serviced) ;-)

but it says the minimum bend radius is 250mm (which seems quite small) so if the who track was bent in a 10' diameter bay-sized curve is that just one bend?

Cheers, T i m

Ok

Yep, and design out all the weaknesses (or as you say make them cheaply / easily serviceable).

Unlike putting crap bearings in a washing machine then sealing them in a one piece molded tub (so it lasts a year not 40). Thank goodness for grommets, capacitors, saber saws and the spirit of d-i-y I say! ;-)

T i m

s/sabre saw/angle grinder/g :o))

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