Do they have CPC in NZ :-?
Principle is the same for all sizes and the one I have here will
accommodate a 1" radius no problem. Do you have any pulleys with a 3/8"
slot to get you started?
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In article < firstname.lastname@example.org
If you mean 10 mm pipe then bending springs are made for that diameter.
I've got one here. We used the pipe to make a rather special radio
aerial that was odd shaped;))..
Failing that, heat it anneal it then stuff it with sand thats a
possible, needs some care 'tho..
Reading the other replies I don't see the various fills from working.
If you really do need to bend it (are there no ready made solder corners for
this size pipe?), then fill it with molten lead which you can melt in a
small measuring cup or tin mug or ladle etc on the gas ring or with a blow
Put the bottom end of the tube in sand; hold the top with pliers and fill it
When cool this will give you the best chance of not flattening the pipe when
you bend it.
When bent heat up pipe and pour out lead.
However, with the small radius, if you don't allow the pipe to flatten, it
is quite likely to split on the outside and buckle up on the inside, so if I
were you I would be asking about 90 degree couplings or flexible pipe, and
have plenty of back up samples ready.
Bending tools (Rothenberger) are available for this size, mostly used
for 6, 8 or 10 mm copper fuel pipe but the 10mm will give
satisfactory result with 3/8" pipe. Ask an oil fired heating engineer
as he will probably make the bend for you with an appropriate drinking
voucher changing hands. The radius might be slightly greater than 1"
but not appreciably so. I see you are in NZ so a bit far to offer for
On Sun, 12 Sep 2010 06:03:03 -0700 (PDT), Matty F wrote:
One technique that's used to get thick cables around sharp corners
without damaging it is to change the level of the cable as it
goes around the corner.
So for example if the cable starts off at a height of (say) 1m
then instead of keeping that height all the way around, you
bend the cable some distance before the corner (still against
the wall) down towards the corner - so it's at about 90° pointing
towards the floor when you reach the corner. Now, to get round
the corner, the cable only needs to be twisted, not bent and then
another 90° bend at a large radius once it's past the corner
brings it out parallel to the wall, but lower than on the first
side by twice the radius of the curves you put in it.
If all your pipe has to do is get around a corner, that might
do the trick.
When I had to do that I made an appropriately-sized wooden former by
filing a groove round a block. The groove fit the pipe tightly at the
sides, so it couldn't spread out to flatten. It did pucker slightly on
the inside of the bend, but good enough for what I needed.
On Sun, 12 Sep 2010 20:04:30 -0700 (PDT), Matty F wrote:
Thats why you need a former to stop the sides spreading remember that
the outside of the bend needs to stretch and the inside compress. The
compression of the inside is why you get puckers or ripples on the
inside of bends that are too tight or badly pulled.
To do this, I bought 2" diameter plastic wheel with a tyre on it from local
hardware shop. (Possibly for a pram/trolley)
I removed the tyre, used mole grips to hold pipe to wheel at one point and
then carefully bent pipe round the wheel.
Normal central heating pipe benders work in the same way.
(Central heating oil pipe.)
I also have an external spring, and you can get small pipe benders.
I was about to try sand, then discovered an external spring bender of
the right size. It was rather hard to get the spring off afterwards. I
tried unwinding the spring but had no luck. I had to bend the pipe
back a bit to get the spring off. Anyway it's finished now:
I may have to move the bend up a bit when I see where the floorboards
are going to be!
Perhaps there is a better lubricant than the CRC that I used so that
the spring would slide off easier.
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