Be careful when buying energy saving lights

[Peter Scott]

Like most people I am working through my house changing to low energy lamps. Up to now I have used the existing fittings and simply changed the bulbs. A few days ago I bought some wall lights that were designed for the compact fluorescents that have the square bases and separate control circuitry on the fitting.

The lamps were rated at 18W. I intended to change these to a lower output as I wanted background light from these undimmable lights. I bought some 10W bulbs only to find that they would not fit. All I can do is to buy 18W warm white bulbs that will give a more restrained light output.

After some research I now know that there are several different and incompatible bases. For electronic control gear there are three called G24q-1(under 18W), G24q-2 (18W) and G24q-3 (over 18W). It seems that the voltages are different. There are similarly three for conventional control gear called G24d-1 etc.

No doubt many of you know all this already. But if like me you are new to these fittings, be warned. You must choose the correct wattage in the first place because you can't change later. I shall be buying conventional fittings from now on. Unless of course someone knows better than me?

There is a good data sheet from Osram which sums all this stuff up. Download it from CPC at

Scott

[Andy Hall]

Really? That's a huge assumption. I recently threw several that had been tried and found wanting into the bin along with the rest of the rubbish.

Far easier to buy traditional fittings and to use proper tungsten bulbs. You could then use any type that you like within the thermal range of the fitting and could dim them as well.

[spamlet]

It is not just the lampholders: We have mini strip lights all around the kitchen, using the T4 tubes. As, so it seems, with almost all things cfl, the ballast fails on a regular basis and the fittings are pretty well sealed, the strip light holders have to be changed quite frequently. Every time we look for a new one, the connector plug and socket design have been changed, so you can no longer link them together without cutting ends off and just using a connector block. Clearly deliberate, and makes a mockery of attempts at energy saving.

S

[Peter Scott]

Yes indeed, but it can be illuminating (!) to calculate how much you spend on electricity for lighting. Dimmers don't reduce the consumption much, just make the lamps even less efficient.

Peter Scott

[Andy Hall]

Not really. It's a mockery anyway, although it has to be said that playing around with lightbulbs is making a mockery even of that.

[Andy Hall]

In terms of total energy outlay, very little, and in terms of my GDP, very small indeed. When one then considers that for six months plus of the year, any heat produced by lighting is added to the envelope of the house, then it becomes even smaller.

Yes I know. The objective would be to set the lighting to the desired aesthetic level. If 100W of heat is added to the requirements for the house, then so be it.

The whole thing is focussed on what amounts to a 3rd or 4th order issue

[Bob Eager]

Not me. I've stocked up on incandescents.