Bathroom Extractors

Aug 30, 2026 Last reply: 5 days ago 15 Replies

Planning ahead for a bathroom refurbish, I am looking for opinions on wiring in bathroom extractors. On our previous bathroom I wired the fan into the bathroom lighting circuit using the switched Live to trigger the extractor which had a run on timer. However, I have come across one installer who recommends wiring the extractor separate to the lighting. To benefit from run on timers a loop is connected from permanent live to switched live in the isolator and a secondary switch is included in the switched live connection to the extractor to trigger it. This means you do not need to switch the light on when not required. Any opinions on which way is best?



Richard



IMO the best way is to use a fan with integral PIR and run on. Unfortunately, it is more expensive to purchase than an ordinary extractor, but needs no manual switching to work.

Do you really want two dangling cords and will you remember which one is which??

I've a single switch for about 40 years (we've been in the house for 49 years)

You haven't said whether the bathroom has a window. If not, the first solution is appropriate. If it does, a simple pull switch.

I have always used individual pull switches, with the fan switch shorter than the light switch, BUT I have recently re-furb'd a shower room and fitted a flow switch to the hot feed ... 'tis the dog's danglies.

The fan turns on as soon as hot water flows out of the shower and turns-off (following the fan timer delay) after the hot water stops, this regardless of the light switch. The ceiling fan switch is available as an override to turn the fan on if required (and, of course, the usual

3p switch to turn it off, if required). I went one more and chose a fan with a humidistat, but that was OTT and it can get confused on very humid days.

The Vent Axia Svara, which does require an App to set it up, does seem to offer all the control options one might need within one package; including a light activation sensor which does away with the need for a switched live and a SELV power option. I am thinking of trying one - any opinions ?

I hate pull cords and the plan is to put the switch/s outside the bathroom. We already have two pull cords one is for an electric radiator, not my choice it came with the bungalow. Why it did not have a proper radiator as part of the central heating I have no idea but plumbing one in is all part of the refurbish.

The bathroom does have a window which we have just replaced and had what I call milky obscured glass installed. In daylight you can only see a very blurred shape even close to the window. With a light on there is a bit more definition which is why I am considering separate switches, I know there is also the option of using a blind but I am not particularly fond of them either. At the last house we had a high level window whose bottom edge was about shoulder height so no problems with privacy, not an option here the reconstituted stone used for the outer walls is no longer available.

I fitted an electric radiator in our bathroom so we could have dry towels in the summer when the (hot water based) heating is off.

We've always had a wet radiator in our en-suite bathroom but when we did a refurb, we replaced it it with a dual heat towel radiator. This is heated by the central heating in the winter, but it also has an electrical heater resembling an immersion heater inside. In the summer, I switch this on while I'm shaving and showering, with the result that I have a nice warm towel when I step out of the shower.

Much depends on what you want really...

I wired up a shower room with a semi smart fan and an external humidistat as well. I thought it worked well. But SWMBO was less impressed "seems to have a mind of its own" was the complaint.

However, once pointing out the things the fan did automatically (it would "run on" after triggering from the light switch - but only after a

2 min delay - so a short trip would not trigger it. It would also do a 5 min refresh cycle every 4 hours (running at a low fan speed). Then the capabilities I added - so it would run at high speed when the humidistat detected it was getting too humid, and keep running until it returned to "normal". She seemed happier.

(when I did our bathroom I put in on its own dedicated switch and also allowed some run on after triggering - you just need to remember to turn it off after a shower)

Lots of wiring options here:

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As I mentioned earlier, triggering from a flow switch on the hot feed to the shower works well

Good point, I have added a section on switching options:

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Also there are other things you can use for triggers in some cases, e.g:

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typo FYI: /How/Hot/ water flow detection

Something I forgot ... when having several parallel ways to control the fan it's easy to forget that the ceiling switch is on, so I added one of these

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to it. I also put a switch in series with the flow switch to be able to isolate it for fault finding. This is the flow switch:
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... testing it by gently blowing through suggests that it has negligible impact on flow rate. I thought about using this as an LV switch to a relay but kept it simple and added additional insulation to the wires and checked the earth bonding. It's a slight worry so I might go back and convert it to LV (a USB supply and relay, unless there's anything off-the-peg to do the job(?))

Ta, fixed.

-- Cheers,

John.

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