Base for wood turning lathe

I've recently obtained an ML7 in basic good condition but in need of some TLC.

It is not mounted on a bench - can someone give some idea of the dimensions of a suitable bench please. I've got a piece of old 11 X 3 " pine I was thinking of using as the top - would that be suitable ?

Cheers Rob

Reply to
robgraham
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As sturdy as possible.

Here's one project:

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approach is to fill the base with sand, so here's another project that does that

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Reply to
Andy Hall

Are you sure it's an ML7? The ML7 is a metalworking lathe - the ML8 is for wood...

Reply to
Frank Erskine

You need heavy with good spread for stability, mines on a 6 foot 10"x8" H rsj, on 6" x 4" risers welded to 6" x 4" fore and aft spreading bases with a further length of 6" x 4" welded between them, added to that is a further frame of 1" box section to carry the shelf (work top) and the upper back enclosure to keep the stuff stored below clean.

Reply to
badger.badger

If it's an ML7 then it's a metal lathe and will have the cross-slide etc of such a lathe - you can turn wood on it but not with any ease - it won't go fast enough, wood dust will get into all sorts of undesirable places, the bed will get in the way and the maximum size you can do is too small. Better to take up steam engine building!

If it's an ML8 then its a good lathe and Myford can still supply pretty much any spares you may want.

Depends what you want to turn. If you have any ambitions for bowl turning then you need a very rigid base to keep vibration down - if your ambition is pens and lace bobbins then you can get away with a lot less.

Mine is on a 12" deep bench with 3 x 3 legs and 3 x 2 rails. Length is to suit the lathe. Height - generally so that when you stand upright in front of it the centres are at about elbow height - err on the side of too high as bending over a lathe for long times is bad for you. Top is two layers of

3/4 chipboard. On the bench alone it shakes a lot. Secret is the cemented stack of 18 x 9 x 4 dense concrete blocks standing behind the cabinet at the headstock end, with the cabinet bolted through to it.

As suplied, the maximum capacity of the ML8 for bowl turning is 12" x 3" - I've modified the outboard end of mine and can turn up to 18" x 6" in theory. I regularly do 12" x 5" bowls with no vibration problems.

Reply to
Norman Billingham

Thanks guys for your advice. It is as you point out an ML8 - that was as slip of the keyboard unfortunately as I'm moving the metal working ML7 at the same time as building up the ML8. I'm also trying to work out the best space usage for them both.

It was all nice and straightforward until her-indoors got out and bought herself a sports car - the insurance company require it to be garaged hence everything having to be moved out and a 6 month project to create new space for everything that took all but a just adequate passageway down the centre of the garage.

Rob

Reply to
robgraham

That's inconsiderate. Garages are not the place for cars - the space is far too useful for worthwhile applications :-)

Reply to
Andy Hall

Thanks fort he support, Andy !!

One significant bonus is that the task has improved my fitness no end - I've had to go and get belts to hold all my trousers up now, and I've just walked two old climbing friends off their feet. I found with very minor adjustment that my climbing breeches purchased nearly 40 years ago are still usable.

Rob

Reply to
robgraham

Get hold of Conover's "Woodturning Lathe Book" (I forget the exacxt title) There's some excellent advice in there about lathe manufacture, particularly the vital need for stability and the easy and cheap ways to obtain it.

A board is no use - too bouncy. What you need is a crude plywood box section, filled with sand.

The ML8 isn't a fashionable lathe as it's very old fashioned and the lack of easy-adjust speed control is certainly inconvenient. However the basic frame has excellent stability and this is something you learn to appreciate.

Reply to
dingbat

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