I don't suppose they do any more, IIRC that photo dates to a similar time as the infamous BP6 motherboard capacitors problem, so ~15 years ago.
I don't suppose they do any more, IIRC that photo dates to a similar time as the infamous BP6 motherboard capacitors problem, so ~15 years ago.
Wouldn't have thought it worth the bother on the relatively low value (680uF) in question. And can't see any maker fitting such a thing. More designed to catch those who just love to 'upgrade' audio equipment.
Interesting - if I remember rightly the voltage rating of electrolytics has a far higher cost driver than the capacitance. Something less than linear for capacitance but a power of some number for voltage. But then when yo u are shaving pennies of a board price then this fraud is probably worth it to some manufacturer. But equally such a fraud should be picked up at goo ds-inwards -- or am I showing too much professional electronic engineerin g ?
My son-in-law passed me a dead HP multi printer a wee while back. I spent sometime net crawling seeing all sorts of abuse being hurled at HP, who ini tially I was quite sympathetic with, until I found that 6 of the electrolyt ics were from one of the dodgy manufacturers mentioned somewhere in this th read. Apart from the hassle in trying to get them out of the multi-layer b oard and get the solder cleared (had to carefully drill in the end !), the repair was 100% successful. But HP should have faced a class action for po or sub-contractor control.
En el artículo , RayL12 escribió:
And not only is it a fake, the blue 2200uF cap inside is badged "Rulycon", one of the well known fake brands trying to pass off as a Rubycon.
Not really. There are:
The additional motherboard power plug beyond the 24w (either 4w or 8w 'EPS
12v) PCI Express power for your GPU (etc) - looks like the EPS 12v but is different. Some GPUs need 2x connectors. SATA power (which you can bodge from 4w 'PATA power' with an adaptor if necessary)It's quite easy to get caught out by not having one or the other if you're using an old PSU in a new machine - less of a problem going the other way. You may find there aren't enough PATA power connections since they're mostly SATA power on new PSUs.
Probably means new board, processor and RAM if you go that way. Possibly PATA->SATA adaptors too.
Theo
What would be really funny would be to open the small one and find and even smaller one inside ;-)
Lol. Cheeky b*****ds. Well, if you're going to do a bad job, make it really bad.
En el artículo , Andrew Gabriel escribió:
Like Russian dolls, but with caps :-)
also did anyone notice the voltage on the cap inside? 35V, and the outer (black) skin on the outer can, although you can't see the voltage, would likely have been marked up as 400V if used as a mains reservoir capacitor in a 240V SMPSU and 200V if used in a 110V one.
The CX430M includes the same number of both. Since it's modular, you just use the right cable.
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes
New board will mean new memory as well, so ebay if a requirement to keep the price down I guess. Though I would look to use this as a time to upgrade a bit.
re PSUs, I've got an Antec Eathwatts 380 (or something like that, can't remember exactly the model) in this box here. Been running quite happily and quietly for a number of years
FakeCapacitor1.jpg
One the main advantages of rectifying and smoothing the mains voltage in an HT module for use by the SMPSU circuitry is the much greater effectiveness of the fullwave rectified AC supply 100/120 Hz ripple filtering for a given physical size of smoothing capacitor for a given power rating of PSU.
As indeed Sony should have faced over their DRM inspired rootkits distributed with their top 50 music CDs which infected thousands of windowsXP machines several years ago.
So you've been weighing NiMH 'D' cells.
In article , Chris French scribeth thus
I've built up or modernised the odd machine with a new motherboard processor and MEM stick for around 100 quid sometimes you can get decent deals of ex office or lease machines. I've got a very decent laptop for around 90 quid, never been used!.
This lot, well recommended...
However seeing that most all computer PSU are around 10 quid or less! you can't expect a lot for that money so something has to give in the quality somewhere;!.
This PC has a Zalman power unit never been any bother and has a trait thats very good in a woman also in that its Quiet;)....
My point exactly. But both the original PS and my spare have all the additional connectors. And I've ordered up a new one.
Adaptors?
Some newer PS have a one piece 24 way rather than the 20+4 which can be used with older boards
New PS arrived today from CPC, and it now boots up ok. But can't get a network connection. Normally I'd expect the LED beside the RG45 connector to change colour when you plug in - but this doesn't. And the troubleshooter reports no driver.
Device manager doesn't even show a network port.
There is a sort of test in the BIOS, but that shows no cable connected.
Computer is too old to have a Wi-Fi connection built in.
In message , "Dave Plowman (News)" writes
sounds something iffy with the mobo.
If that is the only problem, then you can get an probably old pci network card for nothing/peanuts
ISTR that on my Iyonix there was one power rail that only fed the network card since one chip required bothe + & - rails. Worth checking that each power rail is there.
Good point. I have a power supply tester with LEDs that indicate the state of all the power rails coming out of the PSU. With recent PSUs I've found that the -12V light doesn't come on. I assumed it was a fault in the tester until I connected my voltmeter and found no voltage wrt ground on that line - looks as if some modern PSUs don't supply it because maybe modern motherboards don't require it.
Interesting.
The leaflet with the PS gives the voltages associated with every pin on each connector. Pin14 on the 24 way is minus 12v, it says. It's the only minus supply listed. I'll check it in a minute.
When I was taught about electronic circuit fault finding at the BBC in the '60s, the first thing was "Check the power supply".
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