One thing to note is every budget magnolia is a slightly different shade - which means going back and doing touch-ups is tricky unless you keep some paint spare.
(It definitely varies between brands - I'm not sure if it varies depending on when you buy the paint).
+1, or another genuine trade brand. having toyed with cheap paints, they're not worth what they cost. There are exceptions, but only for specialised tasks.
Theo Markettos wrote in news:tzd* snipped-for-privacy@news.chiark.greenend.org.uk:
Thanks to all for the input. I was taking to a painter friend yesterday who strongly recommended using vinyl trade emulsion because, he says, with vinyl, you can wash fingermarks off the finished wall whereas non-vinyl emulsion is harder to clean.
I may be wrong, but vinyl emulsion sounds to me like it is probably pretty impervious and airtight. My old house does have a degree of damp within its solid stone walls. The rendered exterior of the house already has a thick coat of masonry paint, so I'm wondering if it would pay me to use an umulsion for the interior that is somewhat breathable, i.e., not 100% impervious and vapour-tight.
I think in the days of yore, they used to use something called 'distemper' (not the canine deasease!) for situations where you wanted the walls to be able to breathe. Can anyone advise what they use nowadays?
There are some people that think so too, but I'm not so sure. Its the outer side that really needs to be breathable on such walls.
Mainly just lime. Make a paste of builder's lime, dilute it 50/50 then dilu te it further. It goes on very thin, dont be tempted to put anything but th in coats on. It bodies up when drying, and again when curing. It'll need 3 coats. OTOH its especially easy to work with. Use eye protection, it can do terrible things to eyes.
snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@googlegroups.com:
That's good to know. ome to think of it, I have seen patches of emulsioned walls that have appeared darker where damp is bleeding through. That would back up what you said.
Can anyone advise what they use nowadays?
Many years ago, I had a go at whitewashing with lime. I was baffled at how little whitening each coat produced. It seemed I'd need to apply about 40-
50 coats to build up a reaonably opaque white. What's more, the layer of whitewash, being only lime & water, remained very powdery. Maybe I was doing something wrong. it was nearly half a century ago, so I can't remember the exact process. I may have omitted the paste-making stage.
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