Aldi Wall Chaser - opinions?

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Wall chaser on offer tomorrow at £49.99

Any opinions as to how goodthis may/may not be?

TIA

Reply to
Nobody
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I suppose it's ideal for the occasional DIY job. Looks robust enough for that.

Reply to
BigWallop

Looks good but I can envisage many cut pipes or cables around the country.

Reply to
BIG NIGE

I went in at 9.05am this morning and they had already sold four. I bought one and the guy behind me at the checkout was also buying one. If it works for light use, then I will be happy enough. 3 year guarantee as well.

Reply to
Nobody

The small picture I saw of it looked similar to the Screwfix/Ferm one I have, although I have seen other makes which are also similar in that they have the same shroud and disc mounting, but are built on a different make of angle grinder. Couldn't see clearly enough to distinguish at that level in the small picture.

The Ferm one is good enough for occasional use. It has a number of design issues though which I would not expect to find in a more professional tool: o The vacuum takeoff has a steal cross in the pipe, which quickly blocks it. I keep thinking I will saw this out, but haven't got round it yet. o The vacuum takeoff and the depth adjustment knob stick out and restrict how close you can run the tool past other objects and how close in to a corner. You can rotate the vacuum takeoff to improve things (this is a hack, not an intended modification), but then only 2 of its 3 screws can be used to fix it back on. o The hub which holds the discs is not a brilliant fit on the output drive of the angle grinder, and can cause disc wobble. I sent the first one back because of this, and the replacement is better, but not perfect.

On the plus side, it came in a carry case with all the tools needed to operate/adjust it, and with a set of replacement brushes for the motor, although I haven't needed them yet.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

I have a small chimney breast in my new house - more a flue than chimney. It is only 1 brick deep from the back wall, but unfortunatly its not in the middle. As i am putting an LCD on it i want to make it look central to the room. I am planning to extend it to one side by around 250mm using stud work/plasterboards/plaster. The question is do you build it such that on the outfacing wall the stud work is flush with the current plaster or (as i think you would) do you build it such that its ~3mm back from the current plaster line such that when its plastered its much easer to jet a seamless join?

A pic of what I am looking to do is at

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(Red = addition)

Reply to
Rob Convery

I have a small chimney breast in my new house - more a flue than chimney. It is only 1 brick deep from the back wall, but unfortunatly its not in the middle. As i am putting an LCD on it i want to make it look central to the room. I am planning to extend it to one side by around 250mm using stud work/plasterboards/plaster. The question is do you build it such that on the outfacing wall the stud work is flush with the current plaster or (as i think you would) do you build it such that its ~3mm back from the current plaster line such that when its plastered its much easer to jet a seamless join?

A pic of what I am looking to do is at

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(Red = addition)

Reply to
Rob Convery

Ignore That

Reply to
Rob Convery

I would build it flush and skim the whole front including the existing area. If the existing area had been much bigger and not in need of reskimming, then I might consider building it recessed and only skimming the plasterboard.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

Make it flush, and fasten a sheet of PB over the whole face, including thge existing breast - with a little thought you can make shallow cupboards or shelves in the side. If you just make an addition and skim the lot flat, you are very likely to find a crack develops at the join.

Reply to
Chris Bacon

The other option would be to use taper edge plasterboard and then scrim and fill the joint. Once sanded flat you can get a supprisingly good finish.

Reply to
John Rumm

I'd go along with that, too. But be warned that it's not ideal having a stud partition abutting a brick structure like the chimney breast; you'll probably find that over time it will crack along the junction due to different movement/thermal properties of the different materials. Might be an idea to dryline the whole of the front of the chimney breast (ie clad it all in plasterboard and skim the whole thing, not just the studwork) - I don't know how you plan to fit the TV, but this might be advantageous for other reasons, eg concealing the connecting cables behind the plasterboard.

David

Reply to
Lobster

I'd hack off the existing plaster, screw a single length of vertical studding to the wall the same depth as the brick where you want the new end to be and just glue/nail a sheet of plasterboard over the lot. If you try and build right up to the existing brickwork with wood and plaster over the join it'll eventually crack if you use the fire. The plasterboard should stop this happening and there's no need for studwork to fill the small gap (maybe 200mm) between the bricks and the new end. You can then plaster the two opposing faces of the brick and wood on each side to blend in with the plasterboard. It might be an idea to have the plasterboard overlapping the brick/wood ends by a few mm so you can apply plaster into the resulting gap and have a couple of nice straight edges to work to.

-- Dave Baker - Puma Race Engines

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Reply to
Dave Baker

You can cancel posts if you catch them quick enough.

Reply to
Rob Morley

You can cancel them anytime, although some sites ignore cancels.

Reply to
Andrew Gabriel

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