You can't disagree - it was mostly a statement of fact not opinion ;-)
Indeed fusing down would be "nicer" (and may well be a requirement of the cooker manufacturer expressed in the installation instructions, which will trump other options anyway).
However if one is going to play devil's advocate you could say it depends entirely on what the feed is actually for. If its just for powering the clock and running the igniter, then you could apply the logic that the device itself has no capability to introduce a sustained overload, so all the flex needs is fault protection. Depending on what size it actually was (and other factors), the 32A MCB *may* provide adequate fault protection and thus meet the requirements of BS7671.
Agreed! And, I'd go a little further and choose an even slimmer 1A fuse (3A is overkill as far as the requirement of a clock and ignitor module is concerned).
Problem with Rated People is revealed in Screwfix forums, up until December last year tradesmen could get a credit for quotes that weren`t accepted or went nowhere.
Lot of punters unaware that trades are paying around 10% of guide job price just to get the contact details, lot of people just dreaming of a new kitchen, checking the price they have just paid someone was OK or just like having people round...
Makes it expensive marketing for sure, but for those that like a gamble its attracted the chancers.
One I got, only one to reply, did everything from landscape gardening to roofing, arrived with his Nick Knowles replica shorts on, pretended to be busy, busy, in a hurry man... Reduced his 330 to 255 2 days later claiming cancellation , did point out to him the doors were on special at Wickes for 17.99, so 219 for hanging couple of doors, door pack supplied, did seem ,er, high.
Can see where the business is for people like TMH.
Investigation continues with less height challenged mate tomorrow,but suspect brown low loss.
Take Brian`s point about water penetration into the cable, but hopefully it was just a wind damaged aerial, rather than junction as well.
Much appreciate the links Mike,some great reading :-)
Cables and aerials were all reddone when roof was reslaetd about 6 years ago, roofers theres a whole other rant, but were very specifically tied in to stop them slapping off the slated flanks. Now hard to access again.
Aerial itself is mounted on to rebuilt 16 vent chimney running lengthways along flat roof, actually have a line of sight view of Craigkelly up there.
DIY beckons probably , unless cable needs tied in, walking down slates and triple extension ladders not my favourite things.
Considering combining CCTV and poor luck with trades to start running a rogue tradesman youtube channel :-)
Whilst there is obvious financial gain to be had from replacing the downlead, I do have some sympathy with the desire of the installers to replace it if it is an older style low loss jobbie, since they will not be able to guarantee error free digital reception with unsuitable cable and unscreened termination points.
If they didn't and you then complained that in spite of the new aerial, you were still getting picture breakup and freezing etc, you would probably not look favourably on them coming back with an "ah, yes we should have replaced the cable really guv" response! ;-)
Over time water can get into co-ax by a variety of ways, so its possible in any case. Water has progressively more effect the higher the frequency in general, so how much effect it has will depend a bit on where in the spectrum the multiplexes are which you are trying to receive are.
There are some bits on our wiki as well:
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One would have hoped 6 years ago they would have used decent co-ax since the digital was clearly on the horizon... still never under estimate the temptation to save cash.
Last time I ventured up to my aerial (to add a 4G flat panel antenna to the base of the mast), it cost me 5 new slates as I managed to get one of the feet of the roof ladder in just the wrong place!
You never know, it might pay for the aerial with enough views!
If you are LOS to Craigkelly then put the thing in the loft, if you have a conveniently sited one, these days and the way DTV works provided you have sufficient signal and I very much expect you will have, then it will more likely than not work fine...
The results are in, quality repair effected for 2.69 for clamps from Toolst ation.
Aerial ok, pole had snapped just below where it was mounted, enough of a st ub to remount aerial with new clamps, strong enough signal that a bit of wi re pointing in vague direction would probably work.
Cable itse;f looks like it was put in yesterday, obviously not crappest co- ax at time :-)
Which is just as well, aerial f****it No.4 had spent ages up there, collect ing aerial junk from adjacent roofs from down the road, its a terrace, and piling it on top of our aerial. Obviously been to some effort, just like a nest of old aerial clutter with ours at the bottom...
At last can catch up on Mock the Week from 2011 :-)
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