A wall vs. radiator conundrum

In article , Jon Connell writes

If you make a hand sized hole in the PB near where you want to make the fixings then you should be able to slide a batten in behind and make fixings into that. If you also screw through the PB into the batten at regular intervals then that will add to the strength. For a big rad I would use a batten about 75mm wide but prob only about 18mm thick.

If you have a pic of the rad and particularly the fixings it would help in the wet finger (in the air) test. Weight of rad when full of water would help too.

Just a thought, but for a horiz rad I would prob use a batten horizontally but for a tall rad it might be better to fit a batten either side and vertically (duplicated top & bottom).

Not anticipating this problem, I papered the wall that the rad goes onto. Still, the batten trick would work from the other side of the void too and save me from making a real mess of the wall and scaring the missus.

There are three pairs of fixings and it weighs 46kg plus the 6kg of water in it:

Unless you get it perfect (as in impossible) all the weight will be on a couple of the brackets. If these are in a solid bit of wall the rest don't need to be as solid.

If its the top brackets the others will push against the wall. The bottom ones and it will try to pull the others out.

You don't get much heat out for its size do you?

Yes, I think that would work. I'd take a view based on how the fixing brackets look out of the box but I'd likely put in 3 horizontal battens and fix into them. You can stick the battens to the PB on the reverse side while you are working using one of the no-more-nails type adhesives.

If it was mine I might just batten the top and then use these for the other fixings:

they're pretty substantial.

Cutting and closing the PB openings is covered in this fine article:

They're fairly thin, but yeah.