Anything I can pour into water heater that will dissolve deposits?

[N:dlzc D:aol T:com (dlzc)]

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And how.

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Some sales blurb on softeners: David A. Smith

[Anonymous Sender]

pipes in your house (especially the hot water pipes) can be just as suspect as your hot water heater) it's cheap insurance. it preserves your pipes and your hot water tank. and it doesn't use that much water on recharge. it exchanges out Ca, Mg, preferentially, and Fe and Mn if you add a calcium chloride pretreatment tank.

and what kind of hardness you have. adding on a softener now can bring your pipes back over time, if they've narrowed from deposits.

at a much lower usage rate.

unbelievably hard water in IN and CT before i went the softened water route here in NH. there's no going back.....

Consider the flow through capacitor for water softening. They used to make "home units" but I don't see the link on their web page anymore:

[Jack Hammer]

If you are looking to get the calcium out of your heater you should determine the age of the heater. If it's more then ten years get a new one. Ten is the average life. I have in the past taken the drain valve off and split a copper pipe length ways and made a long thin scoop and dug out the calcium. Vinegar will dissolve calcium but thats allot of vinegar. I would never buy a softener again. Not with the new saltless water softener. The saltless softener will remove all the hardness in your water heater and all existing pipes. You can see it on my web site at this address.

[DonC]

I wouldn't take that 10 years figure as gospel. Most of the units I've "lived" with have lasted much longer. The unit in my last house was 33 years old when I sold it in 2006. The unit in my mother's house lasted from 1960 to 1990 before I replaced it for her. The new one is 17 years old and still going strong. The original was installed before 1946 so it was at least 14 years old when replaced.

The unit you refer to with your link is at least somewhat controversial.

FWIW:

[Toodlesbug]

replying to Doc, Toodlesbug wrote: I can't understand why a bottle of Lime-Away wouldn't work. I'd dump it in when the tank was about 1/4 full and leave it overnight. Lime-Away sure works to dissolve crud in a pan I've been adding water to on the stove to humidify the house in the winter, and it does NOT dissolve metal or glass or plastic. Just the crud.

[packrat]

replying to Jack, packrat wrote: You can certainly taste dilute Muriatic (Hydrochloric) acid.(1%)Your stomach acid is stronger.

[Kelly Knight]

replying to do_see, Kelly Knight wrote: Muriatic acid is perfectly safe if used properly. Do not use it in your house the fumes will overwhelm anybody around. Turn the electric & water to the tank. If gas shut off gas & disconnect at the union. If electric turn off power disconnect the 3 wires usually in a cover plate on top and any other electric or gas connectors. Take the tank outside. I use an appliance dolly. If there are hot and cold water shutoff and unions take them apart before you try to move it. Most should if installed correctly. If cut off etc... To break it free. Once outside pour about 8 ounces of muriatic in the fill tube.wearing rubber gloves safety glasses face shield maybe a shop apron. The acid will cause a reaction like a volcano depending on how bad it is . keep a garden hose ready to spray down the overflow on the tank. Always start this in small increments of acid until it starts foaming out of the tank fill tube or drain. The anode tube will need replacing which costs a few bucks available just about anywhere. The elements will likely need replacing and difficult to get out if they're bent . there is a tool specifically made just to remove the electric heating elements. Flush with water and vinegar solution a few times and you should be good to go. Sounds like a lot but your bigges6cost is time this shouldn't cost more than 25 to 50 bucks after you reinstall anything that had to be cut like pc which is very cheap. You just saved yourself around$500. Without paying a plumber which could easily cost 2- $500. More.