Grizzly G1023SL owner's manual: Section 4: operations

SECTION 4: OPERATIONS

WARNING Keep loose clothing out of the way of machinery and keep hair pulled back.

WARNING Disconnect power to the machine when performing any adjustments or maintenance. Failure to do this may result in serious personal injury.

WARNING Wear safety glasses during all operations on the shaper. Failure to comply may result in serious personal injury.

CAUTION Always wear a dust mask when operating the table saw. Using this machine produces sawdust which may cause allergic reactions or respiratory problems.

Basic Controls

The basic controls for the table saw are shown in Figure 34. Setting up for a typical operation consists of the following three steps:

1. Make sure the blade tilt is correct. If it needs to be adjusted, use the blade tilt handwheel and always tighten the blade tilt lock after adjustments have been made.
2. Set the blade height approximately 1/4" higher than the workpiece thickness by turning the blade height handwheel, then lock the blade height in place by tightening the blade height lock.
3. Adjust the fence to the desired width of cut, then lock it in place by firmly pushing the fence lock down until it stops.

Mounting Router

G1023SLW, WX, WX3

To mount a router to the router table:

1. Slide the router clamps into the T-slots on the underside of the table (Figure 35).

Figure 35. Installing the router clamps

2. Loosen the router clamps, and install the router so the base presses flat against the underside of the table (Figure 36).

Figure 36. Router mounted under wing.

3. Adjust the thickness bolts and the jam nuts on each of the router clamps to pinch the router base against the table. (The thickness bolt should press against the bottom of the table—not inside the T-slot.)
4. Tighten the router clamps to secure the router base into position.
5. Set the table insert into the table recess.

G1023SL Series Table Saw

Blade Selection

Ripping blade features:

• Best for cutting with the grain of the workpiece.
• 20-40 teeth.
• Flat-top ground tooth profile.
• Large gullets for large chip removal.

Figure 37. Ripping blade.

Crosscut blade features:

• Best for cutting across the grain of the workpiece.
• 60-80 teeth.
• Alternate top bevel tooth profile.
• Small hook angle and a shallow gullet.

Figure 38. Crosscutting blade.

Combination blade features:

• Adequate for cutting both with and across the grain.
• 40-50 teeth.
• Alternate top bevel and flat, or alternate top bevel and raker tooth profile.
• Teeth are arranged in groups of five.
• Gullets are small and shallow within the groups of five teeth, similar to a cross-cut blade; then large and deep between each group of five, like a ripping blade.

Alternate Top Bevel and Flat

Figure 39. Combination blade.

Laminate blade features:

• Best for cutting plywood or veneer.
• 40-80 teeth.
• Triple chip tooth profile.
• Very shallow gullet.

Triple Chip Blade

Figure 40. Laminate blade.

Dado Blades:

There are two types of dado blades: stacked and wobble.

• Stacked Dado Blade: These dedicated dado cutting blade sets consist of up to 8 individual blades. Multiple cutters are "stacked" between two outside blades. The width of the dado is determined by the combination of cutters that are "stacked" together. The dado is cut in a single pass leaving a smooth and square channel in the face of the workpiece. Stacked dado blades are the most expensive option, but are worth considering if your projects require a lot of visible dado cuts. A stacked dado blade is shown in Figure 41.

WARNING:

Figure 41. Stacked dado blade.

• Wobble Dado Blade: Also a dedicated dado blade, a wobble blade usually consists of a single blade that is tilted on the arbor shaft while it is spinning. The channel is cut in the face of the workpiece as the blade passes through its pre-adjusted width of travel. Wobble blades are an inexpensive option when visibly pleasing channels are not a concern.

Note: This section on blade selection is by no means comprehensive. Always follow the saw blade manufacturer's recommendations to ensure safe and efficient operation of your table saw.

Non-Through and Through Cuts

Non-Through Cuts

A non-through cut is a sawing operation where the blade does not protrude above the top face of the wood stock. Non-through cuts require the removal of the blade guard and splitter. Dado cuts, rabbet cuts, and resawing are the only non-through cuts that can be performed with this table saw.

Through Cuts

A through cut is a sawing operation in which the workpiece is completely sawn through. Ripping, crosscutting, miter cuts, and angled cuts are all through cutting operations.

Both through and non-through cuts have a risk of kickback. Kickback is an event in which the workpiece is propelled back towards the operator at a high rate of speed. Non-through cuts have a higher risk of injury from kickback because the splitter and blade guard must be removed. Always remember to re-install the blade guard and splitter after performing a non-through cut.

Read, understand, and follow the instructions and safety precautions for each type of cut to reduce the risk of injury.

Safety precautions and instructions for each type of cut are located on the following pages:

Ripping: On this page.

Crosscutting: Page 32

Miter Cuts: Page 33

Blade Tilt/Bevel Cuts: Page 33

Dado Cutting: Page 34

Rabbet Cutting: Page 36

Resawing: Page 38

Ripping

Ripping means cutting with the grain of the workpiece. In other materials such as MDF or plywood, ripping simply means cutting lengthwise.

WARNING Serious injury can be caused by kickback. Kickback is a high-speed expulsion of stock from the tablesaw toward an operator. The operator or bystanders may be struck by flying stock, or the operator's hands can be pulled into the blade during the kickback.

To make a rip cut:

1. Review Preventing Kickback on Page 9 and take the necessary precautions to prevent kickback.
2. Joint one long edge of the workpiece on a jointer.
3. DISCONNECT THE SAW FROM POWER!
4. Set the fence to the desired width of cut on the scale.
5. Adjust the blade height so the highest saw tooth protrudes approximately 1/4" above the workpiece.
6. Set up safety devices such as featherboards or other anti-kickback devices.
7. Rotate the blade to make sure it does not come into contact with any of the safety devices.

Continued on next page

G1023SL Series Table Saw -31-

8. Plug the saw into the power source, turn it ON, and allow it to reach full speed.

9. The jointed edge of the workpiece must slide against the fence during the cutting operation.

10. Using a push stick, feed the workpiece through the saw blade, as shown in Figure 42, until the workpiece is completely past the saw blade.

Figure 42. Ripping operation.

WARNING Turn OFF the saw and allow the blade to come to a complete stop before removing the cut-off piece. Failure to follow this warning could result in serious personal injury.

Crosscutting

Crosscutting is cutting across the grain of the workpiece. In MDF or particleboard, crosscutting is cutting across the width of the workpiece.

To make a crosscut using the miter gauge:

1. DISCONNECT THE SAW FROM POWER!

2. Remove the rip fence and position the miter gauge, adjusted to 90°, in a miter slot.

3. Adjust the blade height so the teeth protrude approximately 1/4" above the workpiece.

4. Slide the miter gauge near the blade and adjust the workpiece so the blade will cut on the waste side of the line.

5. Plug in the tablesaw, turn it ON, and allow it to reach full speed.

6. Hold the workpiece firmly against the face of the miter gauge and ease it into the blade as shown in Figure 43.

Figure 43. Crosscutting operation.

WARNING Turn OFF the saw and allow the blade to come to a complete stop before removing the cut-off piece. Failure to follow this warning could result in serious personal injury

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Miter Cuts

A miter is an angled crosscut. Miters are usually cut in the same manner as crosscuts, using the miter gauge and a predetermined mark on the workpiece.

To perform a miter cut:

1. DISCONNECT THE SAW FROM POWER!
2. Determine the angle of your cut. If the angle needs to be very precise, use a protractor to set the miter gauge to the blade.
3. Place the face of the miter gauge against the edge of the workpiece and place the bar across the face of the workpiece. Use the bar as a guide to mark your cut as shown in Figure 44.

Figure 44. Marking miter line.

4. Place the miter gauge back into the slot and hold the workpiece firm against the miter gauge body. Slide the miter gauge near the blade and adjust the workpiece so the blade will cut on the waste side of the line.
5. Proceed to make the cut in the same manner as described in the Crosscutting instructions.

Blade Tilt/Bevel Cuts

When the positive stops are properly adjusted, the blade tilt handwheel allows the operator to tilt the blade to the left, anywhere between 0° and 45°. This is used most often when cutting bevels, compound miters or chamfers. Figure 45 shows an example of the blade when tilted to 45°.

Figure 45. Blade tilted to 45° for bevel cutting on a typical table saw.

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Dado Cutting

Commonly used in furniture joinery, a dado is a straight channel cut in the face of the workpiece. Dadoes can be cut using either a dedicated dado blade or a standard saw blade.

The table saw motor is pushed to its limits when making a dado cut. If the motor starts to bog down, slow down your feed rate.

WARNING Dado operations require proper procedures to avoid serious injury. Extra care must be taken to prevent kickback when using dado blades. Any movement of the workpiece away from the fence will cause kickback. Be certain that stock is flat and straight. Failure to follow these warnings could result in serious personal injury.

WARNING DO NOT make a through-cut with a dado blade. Dado blades are not designed for through cuts. Failure to follow this warning could result in serious personal injury.

To use a stacked or wobble dado blade:

1. DISCONNECT THE SAW FROM POWER!
2. Remove the table insert, the blade guard, and the saw blade.
3. Attach and adjust the dado blade system according to the dado blade manufacturer's instructions, then install the dado insert.
4. Raise the dado blade up to the desired depth of cut (depth of dado channel desired). When cutting deep dadoes, take more than one pass to reduce the risk of kickback.

WARNING The danger of kickback increases relative to the depth and width of a cut. Reduce the risk of kickback by making multiple passes to achieve the desired depth of cut. Failure to follow these warnings could result in serious personal injury.

5. Adjust the distance between the fence and the inside edge of the blade as shown in Figure 46 to dado the length of a workpiece.

Figure 46. Stacked or wobble dado cut.

6. If dadoing across the workpiece, use the miter gauge and carefully line up the desired cut with the dado blade. DO NOT use the fence in combination with the miter gauge.
7. Reconnect the saw to the power source.

8. Turn the saw ON and keep one finger ready to push the STOP button. The blade should run smooth with no vibrations.

9. When the blade has reached full speed, perform a test cut with a scrap piece of wood.

10. If the cut is satisfactory, repeat the cut with the actual workpiece.

To use a standard saw blade to cut dadoes:

Note: Reduce motor overloading and blade wear by using a ripping blade. Ripping blades are designed to clear the sawdust quickly. See Page 29 for more details.

1. DISCONNECT THE SAW FROM POWER!

2. Mark the width of the dado cut on the workpiece. Include marks on the edge of the workpiece so the cut path can be aligned when the workpiece is lying on the table.

3. Raise the blade up to the desired depth of cut (depth of dado channel desired). When cutting deep dadoes, take more than one pass to reduce the risk of kickback.

WARNING The danger of kickback increases relative to the depth and width of a cut. Reduce the risk of kickback by making multiple passes to achieve the desired depth of cut. Failure to follow these warnings could result in serious personal injury.

4. If dadoing across the workpiece, use the miter gauge to support the workpiece, and align the blade to cut one of the dado sides. DO NOT use the fence in combination with the miter gauge.

5. If dadoing the length of a workpiece, align the blade to cut one of the dado sides as shown in Figure 47.

Figure 47. Single-blade dado first cut.

6. Reconnect the saw to the power source and turn the saw ON. Allow the blade to reach full speed.

7. Perform the cutting operation.

8. Re-adjust the fence so the blade is aligned with the other edge of the intended dado channel (Figure 48).

Note: Be sure to keep the cuts within your marks; otherwise, the dado will be too big.

Figure 48. Single-blade dado second cut.

9. Continue making cuts toward the center of the dado until the dado is complete.

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Rabbet Cutting

CAUTION You may experience kickback during this procedure. Stand to the side of the blade and wear safety glasses or a face shield to prevent injury when cutting rabbets.

Commonly used in furniture joinery, a rabbet is an L-shaped groove cut in the edge of the workpiece. Rabbets can be cut with either a dado blade or a standard saw blade.

To attach a sacrificial fence:

Rabbet cutting on the edge of the workpiece requires a sacrificial fence attachment (Figure 49). Make the sacrificial fence the same length as the fence and 3/4" thick. Attach it to the fence with screws or clamps, making sure they are all secure and tight. Raise the blade into the sacrificial fence to the height needed.

Rip Fence Sacrificial Fence Dado Insert Blade Cut-Out Figure 49. Sacrificial fence.

CAUTION Always use push sticks, featherboards, push paddles and other safety accessories whenever possible to increase safety and control during operations which require that the blade guard and splitter must be removed from the saw. ALWAYS replace the blade guard after dadoing is complete.

To cut rabbets with the dado blade:

1. DISCONNECT THE SAW FROM POWER!
2. Adjust the dado blade to the height needed for the rabbeting operation. When cutting deep rabbets, take more than one pass to reduce the risk of kickback.

WARNING The danger of kickback increases relative to the depth and width of a cut. Reduce the risk of kickback by making multiple passes to achieve the desired depth of cut. Failure to follow these warnings could result in serious personal injury.

3. Adjust the fence and align the workpiece to perform the cutting operation as shown in Figure 50.

Sacrificial Fence Fence Workpiece Dado Blade Figure 50. Rabbet cutting.

4. Reconnect the saw to the power source and turn the saw ON.
5. When the blade has reached full speed, perform a test cut with a scrap piece of wood.
6. If the cut is satisfactory, repeat the cut with the final workpiece.

To cut rabbets with the standard blade:

Note: Cutting rabbets with a standard saw blade DOES NOT require the use of a sacrificial fence.

Note: Reduce motor overloading and blade wear by using a ripping blade. Ripping blades are designed to clear the sawdust quickly.

1. DISCONNECT THE SAW FROM POWER!

2. Clearly mark the width of the rabbet cut on the workpiece.

   Note: Include marks on the edge of the workpiece to clearly identify the intended cut while it is laying flat on the saw table.

3. Raise the blade up to the desired depth of cut (depth of rabbet channel desired). When cutting deep rabbets, take more than one pass to reduce the risk of kickback.

WARNING

The danger of kickback increases relative to the depth of a cut. Reduce the risk of kickback by making multiple passes to achieve the desired depth of cut. Failure to follow these warnings could result in serious personal injury.

4. Adjust the fence so the blade is aligned with the inside of your rabbet channel as shown in Figure 51.

Figure 51. Rabbet cutting with a standard blade.

5. Reconnect the saw to the power source and turn the saw ON.
6. When the blade has reached full speed, perform a test cut with a scrap piece of wood.
7. If the cut is satisfactory, repeat the cut with the final workpiece.
8. Stand the workpiece on edge as shown in Figure 52.

Figure 52. Second cut to create a rabbet.

9. Adjust the saw blade height to intersect with the first cut.
10. Perform the second cut to complete the rabbet.

Resawing

WARNING

Resawing on a table saw increases the chances of kickback. Serious injury can be caused by kickback. Kickback is a high-speed expulsion of stock from the tablesaw toward an operator. The operator or bystanders may be struck by flying stock, or the operator’s hands can be pulled into the blade during the kickback.

WARNING

Resawing operations require proper procedures to avoid serious injury. Extra care must be taken to prevent kickback when resawing. Any tilting or movement of the workpiece away from the fence will cause kickback. Be certain that stock is flat and straight. Failure to follow these warnings could result in serious personal injury.

Resawing is the process of cutting a thick piece of stock into one or more thinner pieces. Bandsaws are ideal for resawing and the process is fairly easy and safe. A table saw is not intended for resawing and the process is difficult and extremely dangerous. Resawing on the table saw often binds the blade, causing kickback. The risk of kickback increases relative to the depth of a cut. Kickback is more dangerous when resawing on a table saw because the anti-kickback devices and blade guard must be removed, leaving no protection between your hands and the saw blade. Kickback can pull the operator's hands into the blade, or the operator or bystanders may be hit by flying stock. DO NOT resaw on a table saw without using a resaw barrier. DO NOT resaw on a table saw without wearing a full face shield.

The following instructions describe how to build a resaw barrier, add an auxiliary fence to your standard fence, and safely perform resawing operations.

Note: This table saw can only resaw wood that is less than 6" tall.

Resaw Barrier

The resaw barrier shown in Figure 53 holds the workpiece vertical, keeps the workpiece aligned with the fence, and keeps your hands away from the blade.

Figure 53. Resawing barrier.

Components Needed for the Resaw Barrier:

Tools Needed for the Resaw Barrier:

To build the resaw barrier:

1. Cut two boards to 3/4" x 5-1/2" x 27" and 3/4" x 3" x 27". If you are using hardwood, cut the boards oversize, then joint and plane the boards to the correct size to make sure the boards are square and flat.

   Note: Only use furniture grade plywood or kiln dried hardwood to prevent warping.

2. Pre-drill and countersink 8 holes approximately 3/8" from the bottom of the 5-1/2" tall board.

3. Glue the end of the 3" board, then clamp the boards at a 90° angle with the larger board in the vertical position as shown in Figure 54.

Figure 54. Clamping the resawing barrier.

4. Secure the joint with the wood screws.

Auxiliary Fence

The auxiliary fence is necessary if you are resawing wood that is more than 3" tall. It should be no less than 1/2" shorter than the board to be resawn.

Components Needed for the Auxiliary Fence:

• Hardwood or Plywood 3/4" x (Height) x 27" ........ 1
• Flat Head Screws 1/4-20" x 1" ........ 8
• Hex Nuts 1/4-20" ........ 8

Tools Needed for the Resaw Barrier:

• Table Saw ........ 1
• Jointer and Planer ........ Recommended
• Clamps ........ 2 Minimum
• Drill and Drill Bits ........ 1

To build the auxiliary fence:

1. Cut a 3/4" thick board 27" long, and cut a height no less than 1/2" shorter than the board to be resawn. If you are using hardwood, cut the board oversize, then joint and plane the board to the correct size to make sure the board is square and flat.

Note: Only use furniture grade plywood or kiln dried hardwood to prevent warping.

2. Pre-drill and countersink 8 holes 1-1/4" from the bottom of the board.

3. Pull an end cap off of the standard fence, then slide the hex nuts into the T-slot and replace the end cap.

4. Thread the flat head screws through the auxiliary fence and into the hex nuts in the standard fence, and tighten securely as shown in Figure 55.

Figure 55. Auxiliary fence.

Resawing Operations

The table saw motor is pushed to its limits when resawing. If the motor starts to bog down, slow down your feed rate. Motor overloading and blade wear can be reduced by using a ripping blade. Ripping blades are designed to clear the sawdust quickly.

Components Needed for Resawing:

• Zero Clearance Insert ........ 1
• Ripping Blade 10" ........ 1
• Clamps ........ 2
• Shop Made Auxiliary Fence ........ 1
• Shop Made Resaw Barrier ........ 1

!WARNING You may experience kickback during this procedure. Stand to the side of the blade and wear a full face shield to prevent injury when resawing.

G1023SL Series Table Saw -39-

To perform resawing operations:

1. DISCONNECT THE SAW FROM POWER!

2. Remove the standard table insert and the blade guard/splitter. Install a ripping blade and a zero clearance table insert. Then lower the blade below the table surface.

3. Attach the auxiliary fence to the standard fence and set it to the desired width.

   Note: Account for blade kerf, the rough cut made by the blade, and the inaccuracy of the fence scale when the auxiliary fence is installed when figuring out the correct width.

4. Place the workpiece against the fence and slide the resaw barrier against the workpiece. Now clamp the resaw barrier to the top of the table saw (see Figure 56).

5. Slide the workpiece over the blade to make sure it moves smoothly.

6. Raise the blade approximately an inch, or close to half the height of the workpiece (Figure 56), whichever is less.

⚠WARNING The danger of kickback increases relative to the depth of a cut. Reduce the risk of kickback by making multiple passes to achieve the desired depth of cut. Failure to follow these warnings could result in serious personal injury.

⚠CAUTION Always use push sticks or push paddles to increase safety and control during operations which require that the blade guard and splitter must be removed from the saw. ALWAYS replace the blade guard after resawing is complete.

7. Plug in the table saw, turn it ON, and use a push stick to feed the workpiece through the blade using a slow, steady feed rate.
8. Flip the workpiece end for end, keeping the same side against the fence, and run the workpiece through the blade.
9. Repeat Steps 6–8 until the blade is close to half of the height of the board to be resawn. The ideal completed resaw cut will leave an 1/8" connection when the resawing is complete as shown in Figure 56. Leaving an 1/8" connection will reduce the risk of kickback.

Figure 56. Ideal completed resaw cut.

10. Turn OFF the table saw, then separate the parts of the workpiece and hand plane the remaining ridge.
11. When finished resawing, remove the resaw barrier and re-install the blade guard/splitter.

SECTION 5: ACCESSORIES

G7895—Citrus Degreaser This citrus based degreaser is perfect for cleaning cosmoline off of new equipment. It also works for cleaning auto parts, tools, concrete, and porcelain surfaces. Natural, safe for the environment, and contains no CFC's.

Figure 57. G7895 Citrus Degreaser.

H1234—Table Saw Bench Guide Like having a master woodworker by your side. Inside this book you'll find great ideas for dozens of shop-made accessories and jigs, in-depth maintenance procedures, loads of safety tips and tricks, and picture-laden walkthroughs for nearly every cut imaginable. Also includes a blade section that covers selection, sharpening, care, troubleshooting, etc. A must have! 160 pages.

Figure 59. H1234 Table Saw Bench Guide.

G7314—Heavy-Duty SHOP FOX® Mobile Base G8684—Mobile Base Ext. Kit for G1023SLX Make your machine mobile with this popular patented mobile base. The unique outrigger type supports increase stability and lower machine height. This heavy duty mobile base is rated for up to a 600 lb. capacity.

Model G8684

Model G7314

Figure 58. G7314 SHOP FOX® Mobile Base.

G1316—15" Wide Outfeed Roller System G1317—37" Wide Outfeed Roller System These unique roller systems fold down easily without tools and snap up in place quickly when needed. Both units have a double level system which lets you set the rollers either in line with the table or slightly below it.

Model G1317 Shown

Figure 60. Outfeed roller system.

Call 1-800-523-4777 To Order

G1023SL Series Table Saw -41-

G7984—Face Shield H1298—Dust Sealed Safety Glasses H1300—UV Blocking, Clear Safety Glasses H2347—Uvex® Spitfire Safety Glasses H0736—Shop Fox® Safety Glasses

Safety Glasses are essential to every shop. If you already have a pair, buy extras for visitors or employees. You can't be too careful when it comes to shop safety!

Figure 61. Our most popular safety glasses.

H2499—Small Half-Mask Respirator H3631—Medium Half-Mask Respirator H3632—Large Half-Mask Respirator H3635—Disposable Cartridge Filter Pair P100

Wood dust is now considered a known carcinogen and has been linked to nasal cancer and severe respiratory illnesses. If you work around dust everyday, a half-mask respirator can be a lifesaver. Also compatible with safety glasses!

Figure 62. Half-mask respirator and disposable cartridge filters.

Carbide-Tipped Saw Blades (ATB) G4803—10" General Purpose, 30T G4804—10" General Purpose, 40T G4805—10" Fine Finishing/Cabinet Work, 60T G4806—10" Cabinet Work/Trimming, 80T G4807—10" Super Fine Work/Trimming, 100T

These ATB blades are manufactured to close tolerances and are fully balanced before leaving the factory. All the carbide-tipped teeth are precisely ground to give a smooth cut every time. The pattern of the teeth is alternate top bevel and the saw kerf is approx. 1/8". These blades have proven themselves in thousands of cabinet shops around the country. Manufactured for heavy-duty use.

Figure 63. Carbide-tipped saw blades.

H7777—Grizzly 8" Stack Dado Set

Finally, a stack dado set that everyone can afford! The set includes two 1/8" wide 30 tooth blades, four 1/8" wide chip cutters, one 3/32" wide chip cutter, one 1/16" wide chip cutter and two each copper shims in .005", .010", .015" and .020" thicknesses. Bore is 5/8". Can cut dadoes from 1/8" to 3/4".

Figure 64. H7777 Grizzly stack dado set.

Call 1-800-523-4777 To Order

G5562—SLIPIT® 1 Qt. Gel
G5563—SLIPIT® 12 oz Spray
G2871—Boeshield® T-9 12 oz Spray
G2870—Boeshield® T-9 4 oz Spray
H3788—G96® Gun Treatment 12 oz Spray
H3789—G96® Gun Treatment 4.5 oz Spray

Figure 65. Recommended products for protecting your cast iron table top.

G3445—Precision Saw Tool
This high impact plastic Saw Aid™ quickly measures blade height and angle and can also serve as a solid push stick. Includes a graduated ruler guide and center finder.

Figure 66. G3445 Precision Saw Tool.

H7583—Grizzly Tenoning Jig
Our fully adjustable tenoning jig handles stock up to 3-1/4" thick and features an adjustable bevel angle with a 90° to 75° range. The two large grip handles, adjustable guide bar, multi-position control levers, and extra large clamping handwheel will ensure accurate and repeatable results. A top seller!

H3309—SHOP FOX® Featherboard
Designed to lock into a standard 3/8" x 3/4" miter slot, this featherboard is fully adjustable to accommodate a wide range of workpieces. Reduce the likelihood of kickback with this convenient accessory.

Figure 67. H3309 SHOP FOX® Featherboard.

G2370—SHOP FOX® Board Buddies
These unique hold downs only turn in one direction to prevent kickback. Adjustable height, spring loaded wheels are designed to hold your workpiece tight against the table and rip fence and are made of a special composition that will not mark your work.

Figure 68. G2370 SHOP FOX® Board Buddies.

Call 1-800-523-4777 To Order

H3308—SHOP FOX® Push Stick Measuring 13-1/2" overall, this push stick allows the operator to keep their hands at a safe distance away from the blade or cutter.

Figure 69. H3308 SHOP FOX® Push Stick.

H4231—Zero-Clearance Table Insert Made from special phenolic material, these inserts reduce the risk of kickback and increase dust collection efficiency.

Figure 70. H4231 Zero-Clearance Table Insert.

H4332—T4 Silencer for Saw Blades Woodworkers across the country swear by these blade silencers. For a fraction of the price of a new saw blade, the T4 Silencer eliminates vibration, dampens noise and stabilizes any blade, allowing it to cut more accurately, smoothly and quietly. A great companion for any blade!

Figure 71. T4 saw blade silencer.

Call 1-800-523-4777 To Order

H3771—Blade Loc® This simple tool secures the blade during blade changes, keeping your hands and your expensive blade from being damaged.

Figure 72. H3771 Blade Loc®.

G7581—Superbar™ G7582—Master Plate The miter slot mounted Superbar™ will align, tune and calibrate your tablesaw to within ±.001 in just minutes. Replace your tablesaw blade when calibrating the double disk ground Master Plate for a precision measurement, with no runout!

Figure 73. Superbar™ and Master Plate.

G3639—Power Twist Link V-Belts Replace the standard V-belts with these and enjoy a smoother, quieter machine with less vibration. These V-belts are easily customizable by adding or removing links, and they will greatly outlast standard V-belts. Sold in 48" lengths. Requires two lengths to replace the three standard V-belts on your table saw. You'll be so impressed that you'll want these on every machine in your shop!

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