Grizzly G0555X owner's manual: Section 4: operations

SECTION 4: OPERATIONS

Operation Overview

The purpose of this overview is to provide the novice machine operator with a basic understanding of how the machine is used during operation, so the machine controls/components discussed later in this manual are easier to understand.

Due to the generic nature of this overview, it is not intended to be an instructional guide. To learn more about specific operations, read this entire manual, seek additional training from experienced machine operators, and do additional research outside of this manual by reading "how-to" books, trade magazines, or websites.

!WARNING To reduce the risk of serious injury when using this machine, read and understand this entire manual before operating.

!WARNING Damage to your eyes and lungs could result from using this machine without proper protective gear. Always wear safety glasses and a respirator when operating this machine.

NOTICE If you have never used this type of machine or equipment before, WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND that you read books, review industry trade magazines, or get formal training before beginning any projects. Regardless of the content in this section, Grizzly Industrial will not be held liable for accidents caused by lack of training.

To complete a typical operation, the operator does the following:

1. Examines workpiece to make sure it is suitable for cutting.
2. Adjusts fence for width of cut and then locks it in place.
3. Adjusts table tilt, if necessary, to correct angle of desired cut.
4. Loosens guide post lock knob, adjusts upper blade guide height to just clear workpiece (no more than 1/4"), then re-tightens guide post lock knob.
5. Checks to make sure workpiece can safely pass all the way through blade without interference from other objects.
6. Puts on safety glasses and a respirator.
7. Starts dust collector and bandsaw.
8. Firmly holds workpiece flat against both table and fence, and then pushes workpiece into blade at a steady and controlled rate until cut is complete.

IMPORTANT: The operator is very careful to keep fingers away from the blade and uses a push stick to feed narrow workpieces.

9. Stops bandsaw.

General Overview

The bandsaw is one of the most versatile wood cutting tools in the shop. It is capable of performing the following types of cuts:

Straight Cuts

• Miters
• Angles
• Compound Angles
• Resawing
• Ripping
• Crosscutting

Irregular Cuts

• Simple and Complex Curves
• Duplicate Parts
• Circles
• Beveled Curves

A properly adjusted bandsaw can be safer to operate than most other saws and performs many functions with ease and accuracy.

Basic Cutting Tips

Here are some basic tips to follow when operating the bandsaw:

• Replace, sharpen, and clean blades as necessary. Make adjustments periodically to keep the saw running in top condition.
• Use light and even pressure while cutting. Light contact with the blade eases line following and prevents undue friction.
• Avoid twisting the blade when cutting around tight corners. Allow the blade to saw around the corners.
• Misusing the saw or using incorrect techniques is unsafe and results in poor cuts. Remember—the blade does the cutting with the operator's guidance.

Disabling & Locking Switch

The ON/OFF switch can be disabled and locked by inserting a padlock through the ON button, as shown. Locking the switch in this manner can prevent unauthorized operation of the machine, which is especially important if the machine is not stored inside an access-restricted building.

IMPORTANT: Locking the switch with a padlock only restricts its function. It is not a substitute for disconnecting power from the machine when adjusting or servicing.

Figure 30. Switch disabled by a padlock.

WARNING

Children or untrained people can be seriously injured by this machine. This risk increases with unsupervised operation. To help prevent unsupervised operation, disable and lock the switch before leaving machine unattended! Place key in a well-hidden or secure location.

NOTICE

The padlock shaft diameter is important to the disabling function of the switch. With any padlock used to lock the switch, test the switch after installation to ensure that it is properly disabled.

Figure 31. Minimum lock shaft requirements.

-30- G0555X (Mfd. Since 9/17)

Workpiece Inspection

Some workpieces are not safe to cut or may require modification before they are safe to cut. Before cutting, inspect all workpieces for the following:

• Material Type: This machine is intended for cutting natural and man-made wood products, laminate covered wood products, and some plastics. Cutting drywall or cementitious backer board creates extremely fine dust and may reduce the life of the bearings. This machine is NOT designed to cut metal, glass, stone, tile, etc.; cutting these materials with a bandsaw may lead to injury.

• Foreign Objects: Nails, staples, dirt, rocks and other foreign objects are often embedded in wood. While cutting, these objects can become dislodged and hit the operator and bind or break the blade, which might then fly apart. Always visually inspect your workpiece for these items. If they can't be removed, DO NOT cut the workpiece.

• Large/Loose Knots: Loose knots can become dislodged during the cutting operation. Large knots can break blade teeth and cause machine damage. Choose workpieces that do not have large/loose knots or plan ahead to avoid cutting through them.

• Wet or "Green" Stock: Cutting wood with a moisture content over 20% causes unnecessary wear on the blades, increases the risk of kickback, and yields poor results.

• Excessive Warping: Workpieces with excessive cupping, bowing, or twisting are dangerous to cut because they are unstable and often unpredictable when being cut. DO NOT use workpieces with these characteristics!

• Minor Warping: Workpieces with slight cupping can be safely supported if the cupped side is facing the table or the fence. A workpiece supported on the bowed side may move unexpectedly resulting in severe injury.

Setting Upper Blade Guide Height

When cutting, the blade guides must always be positioned so they just clear (no more than 1/4") the workpiece. The guide post, shown in Figure 32, allows the upper blade guide assembly to be quickly adjusted for height.

Figure 32. Guide post controls.

To adjust blade guide assembly on guide post:

1. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
2. Make sure that the blade tension, blade tracking, support bearing and blade guides are adjusted correctly.
3. Loosen the guide post lock knob shown in Figure 32.
4. Raise/lower the guide post so the bottom of the blade guide assembly is less than 1" from the top of the workpiece.
5. Lock the guide post with the lock knob.

Adjusting Table Tilt

The table can be tilted to make angled or beveled cuts. A simple tilt scale is provided on the trunnion for a quick gauge (see Figure 33). For more accurate results use a protractor.

Figure 33. Table tilt controls.

Note: When tilting the table to the left, the positive stop bolt must be lowered. Be sure to re-adjust it when returning the table to be perpendicular with the blade.

To tilt table:

1. DISCONNECT BANDSAW FROM POWER!
2. Loosen both table lock knobs underneath table.
3. Tilt table to desired angle, then retighten lock knobs.

Blade Selection

Selecting the right blade requires a knowledge of the various blade characteristics to match the blade with the particular cutting operation.

Blade Terminology

Figure 34. Bandsaw blade components.

A. Kerf: The amount of material removed by the blade during cutting. B. Tooth Set: The amount each tooth is bent left or right along the blade. C. Gauge: The thickness of the blade. D. Blade Width: The widest point of the blade measured from the tip of the tooth to the back edge of the blade. E. Tooth Rake: The angle of the tooth face from a line perpendicular to the length of the blade. F. Gullet Depth: The distance from the tooth tip to the bottom of the curved area (gullet). G. Tooth Pitch: The distance between tooth tips. H. Blade Back: The distance between the bottom of the gullet and the back edge of the blade. I. TPI: The number of teeth per inch measured from gullet to gullet.

Blade Dimensions

• Length Range ........ 92-1/2"–93-1/2"
• Width Range ........ 1/8"–3/4"

Blade Length

Measured by the blade circumference, blade lengths are specific to each bandsaw. They are determined by the wheel diameter and distance between the wheels. Blades will vary slightly even in the same length because of how they are welded. Refer to the Accessories section later in this manual for blade replacements from Grizzly.

Blade Width

Measured from the back of the blade to the tip of the blade tooth (the widest point), blade width is often the first consideration given to blade selection. Blade width dictates the largest and smallest curve that can be cut, as well as how accurately it can cut a straight line.

• Curve Cutting: Use the chart in Figure 35 to determine the correct blade for curve cutting. Determine the smallest radius curve that will be cut on your workpiece and use the corresponding blade width.

Figure 35. Recommended cutting radius per blade width.

• Straight Cutting: Use the largest width blade that you own. Large blades excel at cutting straight lines and are less prone to wander (known as blade lead—refer to Page 48 for more information on blade lead).

Tooth Style

Figure 36 illustrates the three main blade tooth styles:

Figure 36. Main blade tooth styles.

• Raker: Considered to be the standard because the tooth size and shape are the same as the tooth gullet. The teeth on raker blades usually are very numerous, have no angle, and produce cuts by scraping the material. As a result, smooth cuts can be achieved without cutting fast or generating more heat than other tooth types.
• Skip: Similar to a raker blade that is missing every other tooth. Because of the design, skip toothed blades have a much larger gullet than raker blades, and therefore, cut faster and generate less heat. However, these blades also leave a rougher cut than raker blades.
• Hook: The teeth have a positive angle (downward) which makes them dig into the material, and the gullets are usually rounded for easier waste removal. These blades are excellent for the tough demands of resawing and ripping thick material.

Tooth Pitch

Measured as TPI (teeth per inch), tooth pitch determines the number of teeth. More teeth per inch (fine pitch) will cut slower, but smoother; while fewer teeth per inch (coarse pitch) will cut rougher, but faster. As a general rule, choose blades that will have at least three teeth in the material at all times. Use fine-pitched blades on harder woods and coarse-pitched blades on softer woods.

Tooth Set

Two common tooth sets for wood bandsaw blades are alternate and raker. Each different type of tooth set removes material in a different manner, leaving cuts with different characteristics (see Figure 37).

Figure 37. Common woodcutting bandsaw blade tooth sets.

• Alternate: An all-purpose arrangement where the teeth are bent evenly left and right of the blade.
• Raker: Three teeth in a recurring group—one bent left, one bent right, and then one that is not bent. The raker set is ideal for most contour cuts.

Blade Material

Bandsaw blades must meet two requirements: flexibility and hardness. The flexibility of a blade allows it to travel on the wheel as a band, while hardness allows the teeth to cut and hold an edge. Modern materials technology has allowed bandsaw blades to meet these requirements in various ways.

Carbon Steel: These blades are differentially heat treated to provide hard teeth that will hold an edge, and yet be flexible in the back.

Carbide Tooth: Extremely hard carbide is either welded onto or impregnated into the carbon steel blades, providing superior edge-holding characteristics (see Figure 38).

Figure 38. Carbide-tooth blade composition.

Bi-metal Blade: A strip of high-speed tool steel is precision welded to a flexible carbon blade, then teeth are ground into the blade to provide good edge-holding qualities for blades taking a lot of abuse (see Figure 39).

Figure 39. Bi-metal blade composition.

Blade Care

& Break-In

Blade Care

A bandsaw blade is a thin piece of steel that is subjected to tremendous strain. You can obtain longer use from a bandsaw blade if you give it fair treatment and always use the appropriate feed rate for your operation.

Be sure to select blades with the proper width, set, type, and pitch for each application. Using the wrong blade will produce unnecessary heat and shorten the life of the blade.

A clean blade will perform much better than a dirty blade. Dirty or gummed up blades pass through the cutting material with much more resistance than clean blades. This extra resistance also causes unnecessary heat.

Blade Break-In

The tooth tips and edges of a new blade are extremely sharp, and cutting at too fast of a feed rate fractures the beveled edges of the teeth and causes premature blade wear.

To properly break in a new blade:

1. Choose correct speed for blade and material of operation.
2. Reduce feed pressure by half for first 50–100 in² of material cut.
3. To avoid twisting blade when cutting, adjust feed pressure when total width of blade is in cut.

Blade Breakage

Many conditions may cause a bandsaw blade to break. Blade breakage is unavoidable in some cases, since it is the natural result of the peculiar stresses that bandsaw blades are subjected to.

Blade breakage is also due to avoidable circumstances. Avoidable blade breakage is most often the result of poor care or judgement on the part of the operator when mounting or adjusting the blade or support guides.

The most common causes of blade breakage are:

• Faulty alignment or adjustment of the blade guides.
• Forcing or twisting a wide blade around a short radius.
• Feeding the workpiece too fast.
• Dull or damaged teeth.
• Over-tensioned blade.
• Upper blade guide assembly set too high above the workpiece. Adjust the top blade guide assembly so that there is approximately 1/8"–1/4" between the bottom of the assembly and the workpiece.
• Using a blade with a lumpy or improperly finished braze or weld.
• Leaving the blade tensioned when not in use.
• Using the wrong pitch (TPI) for the workpiece thickness. The general rule of thumb is to have no less than two teeth in contact with the workpiece at all times during cutting.

Changing Blade

WARNING Disconnect bandsaw from power BEFORE changing blade. Serious personal injury could occur if machine is started during this procedure.

CAUTION LACERATION HAZARD! Bandsaw blades are sharp and difficult to handle. Wear heavy leather gloves while handling to reduce the risk of being cut.

To remove blade:

1. DISCONNECT BANDSAW FROM POWER!
2. Release tension lever.
3. Remove table insert and table pin. Adjust upper and lower guide blocks away from blade.
4. Open upper and lower wheel covers and slide blade off both wheels.
5. Rotate blade 90° and slide it through slot in the table.

To replace blade:

1. Slide blade through table slot, ensuring teeth are pointing down toward table. If teeth will not point downward in any orientation, the blade is inside-out. Put on heavy gloves, remove blade, and twist it rightside-out.
2. Slip blade through guides, and mount it over upper and lower wheels.
3. Apply tension. If blade cannot be tensioned as described on Page 23, adjust the tensioner as described in Steps 4-6. If the tension is correct, go to Step 7.

Note: The tensioner must be adjusted if you are using a different length of blade.

4. Remove set screw in spacer indicated in Figure 40, and rotate spacer up 5-6 turns.

Figure 40. Tensioner adjustment.

5. Turn tension knob until proper blade tension has been reached according to blade thickness scale on sliding bracket. Fine tune as needed.
6. Thread spacer down until it lightly contacts top of sliding bracket. Move spacer back up shaft about 1-2 turns to leave a small space. Replace set screw in spacer and tighten (see Figure 40).
7. Check and adjust tracking.
8. Adjust upper/lower guide blocks and support bearings.
9. Close wheel covers.
10. Replace table insert and table pin, being sure not to use excessive force when inserting table pin.

Scale Calibration

You may need to recalibrate the fence scale after changing or adjusting the blade, or if the scale is not producing accurate cuts. Recalibrate the fence scale by adjusting the hairline indicator on the fence and testing your adjustment by cutting a piece of scrap wood.

To calibrate scale:

1. Set fence anywhere along scale and locate a piece of scrap wood with at least one straightedge. Joint edge with a jointer if needed to make the edge straight.
2. Hold straight edge of workpiece firmly against fence, and feed workpiece through saw blade with a push stick.
3. Measure width of cut workpiece. The width of workpiece should match the reading on the fence scale.
4. If reading on scale is not the same as the width of cut workpiece, loosen screws on magnifying window (see Figure 41) and adjust it to match width of cut workpiece.
5. Tighten screws; scale is now correctly calibrated.

Figure 41. Scale recalibration screws.

Ripping

"Ripping" means cutting with the grain of the wood stock. For plywood and other processed wood, ripping simply means cutting down the length of the workpiece.

To make a rip cut:

1. Adjust fence to match width of cut on your workpiece, then lock fence in place.
2. Adjust blade guide assembly to less than 1" away from workpiece.
3. After all safety precautions have been met, turn bandsaw ON. Slowly feed workpiece into blade and continue with cut until blade is completely through workpiece. Figure 42 shows a typical ripping operation.

Note: If you cut narrow pieces, use a push stick to protect your fingers.

Figure 42. Typical ripping operation.

⚠WARNING

NEVER place fingers or hands in the line of cut. If you slip, your hands or fingers may go into the blade. ALWAYS use a push stick when ripping narrow pieces. Failure to follow these warnings may result in serious personal injury!

Crosscutting

"Crosscutting" means cutting across the grain of wood. For plywood and other processed wood, crosscutting simply means cutting across the width of the workpiece.

To make a 90° crosscut:

1. Mark workpiece on edge where you want to begin the cut.
2. Adjust blade guide assembly to less than 1" away from workpiece and make sure miter gauge is set to 90°.
3. Move fence out of the way. Place the workpiece evenly against the miter gauge.
4. Hold the workpiece against the miter gauge and align the mark with the blade.
5. After all safety precautions have been met, turn the bandsaw ON. Slowly feed the workpiece into the blade and continue the cut until the blade is all the way through the workpiece. Figure 43 shows a typical cross-cutting operation.

Figure 43. Typical crosscutting operation.

Resawing

"Resawing" (see Figure 44) means cutting the thickness of a board into two or more thinner boards. The maximum board width that can be resawn is limited by the maximum cutting height of the bandsaw.

One of the most important considerations for resawing is blade selection—a wide blade cuts straighter and is less prone to blade lead (see Page 48 for more info on blade lead).

For most applications, use a blade with a hook or a skip tooth style. Choose blades with fewer teeth-per-inch (from 3 to 6), because they offer larger gullet capacities for clearing sawdust, reducing heat buildup and reducing strain on the motor.

Figure 44. Typical resawing operation.

To resaw a workpiece:

1. Verify that the bandsaw is setup properly and that the table is perpendicular to the blade.
2. Use the widest blade your bandsaw will accept. Note: The blade must also be sharp and clean.
3. Install the resaw fence, adjust it to the desired width of cut, and lock it in place.

WARNING

When resawing thin pieces, a wandering blade (blade lead) can tear through the side of the workpiece, exposing your hands to the blade teeth. Always use push blocks when resawing and keep your hands clear of the blade.

4. Support the ends of the board if necessary.

5. Turn the bandsaw ON.

6. Using push paddles and a push stick, maintain workpiece pressure against the fence and table, and slowly feed the workpiece into the moving blade until the blade is completely through the workpiece (see Figure 44).

Cutting Curves

When cutting curves, simultaneously feed and turn the stock carefully so the blade follows the layout line without twisting. If a curve is so abrupt that it is necessary to repeatedly back up and cut a new kerf, use a narrower blade, a blade with more TPI (teeth per inch), or more relief cuts.

Relief cuts are cuts made through the waste portion of the workpiece and are stopped at the layout line. Relief cuts reduce the chance that the blade will be pinched or twisted by removing waste wood from the workpiece and alleviating any pressure on the back of the blade.

NOTICE

The list below shows the minimum radii for different blade widths.

Stacked Cuts

One of the benefits of a bandsaw is its ability to cut multiple copies of a particular shape by stacking workpieces together and cutting them as one. Before making stacked cuts, ensure that both the table and the blade are properly adjusted to 90°; otherwise, any error will be compounded.

To complete a stacked cut:

1. Align your pieces from top-to-bottom to ensure that each piece has adequate scrap to provide a clean, unhampered cut.

2. Secure all the pieces together in a manner that will not interfere with the cutting. Hot glue on the edges works well, as do brad nails through the waste portion. (Be careful not to cut into the brads or you may break the blade!)

3. On the face of the top piece, mark the shape you intend to cut.

4. Make relief cuts perpendicular to the outline of your intended shape in areas where changes in blade direction could cause the blade to bind.

5. Cut the stack of pieces as though you were cutting a single piece. Follow your layout line with the blade kerf on the waste side of your line as shown in Figure 45.

Figure 45. Typical stacked cut.

SECTION 5: ACCESSORIES

WARNING Installing unapproved accessories may cause machine to malfunction, resulting in serious personal injury or machine damage. To reduce this risk, only install accessories recommended for this machine by Grizzly.

NOTICE Refer to our website or latest catalog for additional recommended accessories.

G5562—SLIPIT® 1 Qt. Gel G5563—SLIPIT® 12 oz. Spray G2870—Boeshield® T-9 4 oz. Spray G2871—Boeshield® T-9 12 oz. Spray H3788—G96® Gun Treatment 12 oz. Spray H3789—G96® Gun Treatment 4.5 oz. Spray

Figure 46. Recommended lubricants for protecting unpainted cast iron/steel part on machinery.

H3051—Riser Block Kit for G0555 & G0555X Increase your G0555 or G0555X 14" Bandsaw's cutting capacity to 12" high with this bolt-on 6" extension block kit. Includes all necessary hardware plus extended blade guard and 3/8" x 105" x 6 TPI blade.

Figure 47. H3051 Riser Block Kit.

T28000—"Bear Crawl" Mobile Base We took years of input and months of testing and design to come out with the Grizzly "Bear Crawl" Mobile Base. Its 1200 lb. capacity, steel and rubber heavy-duty ball bearing wheels, and toe flip-stops are only a few of the features that will make this mobile base a staple under your machines for years to come. Adjusts from 19" x 21" to 29-1/2"x 29-1/2"!

Figure 48. T28000 Bear Crawl Mobile Base.

order online at www.grizzly.com or call 1-800-523-4777 -40- G0555X (Mfd. Since 9/17)

T1194—Resaw Fence w/Drift Bar Anyone who's ever tried to rip or resaw on a bandsaw without adjusting for blade drift knows the natural line of cut is not always parallel to the fence. Forcing the wood against the fence will put strain on the blade and cause a wandering cut line. The easiest way to compensate for blade drift is to scribe a cut line on the edge or face of your workpiece and use a drift bar mounted to your fence. The drift bar allows you to adjust the angle of cut to the scribed line, ensuring a uniform thickness without putting undue strain on the blade. This includes the 19-7/8" x 5-15/16" resaw fence and drift bar so you have everything you need to start cutting down on drift!

Figure 49. T1194 Resaw Fence with Drift Bar.

T23070—Replacement Tires These are replacement tires for the G0555, G0555X, G0555P, and G0580 bandsaws.

Figure 50. T23070 Replacement Tires.

T26403—The Missing Shop Manual: Bandsaw Dedicated to providing integral information about woodworking tools and techniques that other manuals overlook, the books in this series contain safety facts, explanations about basic project set up, and tips for maximizing tool performance. In Bandsaw, you will find out how to best utilize this essential workshop tool, and how to get the most for your money by getting the most from your equipment. Filled with clear diagrams and instructions, this pocket sized durable manual is ideal for quick reference in the workshop. 112 pages, soft cover.

Figure 51. The Missing Shop Manual: Bandsaw.

H6572—Grease-Resistant Mat 3' x 3' x 3/4" These Black Grease Resistant Mats are engineered for proper back and leg support, using super-tough virgin rubber material. The non-slip surface features a modular interlock design, which enables the user to create a custom floor. Mats measure 36" x 36" x 3/4".

Figure 52. H6572 Grease-Resistant Mat 3' x 3' x 3/4".

order online at www.grizzly.com or call 1-800-523-4777

SECTION 6: MAINTENANCE

! figure WARNING Always disconnect power to the machine before performing maintenance. Failure to do this may result in serious personal injury.

Schedule

For optimum performance from this machine, this maintenance schedule must be strictly followed.

Ongoing

To maintain a low risk of injury and proper machine operation, if you ever observe any of the items below, shut down the machine immediately and fix the problem before continuing operations:

• Loose mounting bolts.
• Worn or damaged saw blade.
• Worn or damaged wires.
• Check/clean wheel brush.
• Clean/protect table surface.
• Check lubrication points.
• Any other unsafe condition.

Monthly

• Check for V-belt tension, damage, or wear.
• Remove blade and thoroughly clean all built-up sawdust from the rubber tires on the wheels.
• Clean/vacuum dust buildup from inside cabinet and off motor.

Cleaning

Vacuum excess wood chips and sawdust, and wipe off the remaining dust with a dry cloth. If resin has built up, use a resin dissolving cleaner to remove it. Once a month, remove the blade and thoroughly clean all built-up sawdust from the rubber tires on the wheels.

Lubricating

Protect the unpainted cast iron surfaces on the table by wiping the table clean after every use—this ensures moisture from wood dust does not remain on bare metal surfaces. Keep tables rust-free with regular applications of products like G96® Gun Treatment, SLIPIT®, or Boeshield® T-9 on Page 40.

If the table becomes difficult to tilt, remove it and lubricate the trunnions and the slides in the trunnion base.

Redressing Rubber Tires

As the bandsaw ages, the rubber tires may need to be redressed if they harden or glaze over. Redressing the rubber tires improves blade tracking and reduces vibration/blade lead.

To redress rubber tires:

1. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
2. Put on heavy leather gloves.
3. Remove blade.
4. Clean any built-up sawdust from rubber tires.
5. Hold 100-grit sandpaper against rubber tire and rotate wheel by hand. Only redress rubber enough to expose a fresh rubber surface.

Note: If the rubber tires become too worn, then blade tracking will become extremely difficult. At that point, redressing will no longer be effective and the rubber tires must be replaced.

-42- G0555X (Mfd. Since 9/17)

SECTION 7: SERVICE

Review the troubleshooting procedures in this section if a problem develops with your machine. If you need replacement parts or additional help with a procedure, call our Technical Support. Note: Please gather the serial number and manufacture date of your machine before calling.

Troubleshooting

Motor & Electrical

Operating Machine

-44- G0555X (Mfd. Since 9/17)

Operating Machine (Cont.)

Tensioning V-Belt

To ensure optimum power transmission from the motor to the blade, V-belt must be in good condition and operate under proper tension.

V-belt tension should be checked at least every month—more often if the bandsaw is used daily. If belt shows signs of cracks, fraying, and excessive wear, replace it. (refer to Replacing V-Belt on Page 47 for instructions).

Checking V-Belt Tension

1. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
2. Open lower wheel cover.
3. Check V-Belt deflection. V-belt is properly tensioned if there is approximately 1/4" deflection. Deflection is checked by pushing V-belt with moderate pressure, as shown in Figure 53, and noting how much it moves.

—If V-belt is not properly tensioned, perform following Tensioning V-Belt procedure.

Figure 53. Belt deflection.

Tensioning V-Belt

Items Needed Qty

• Hex Wrench 6mm ........ 1

To properly tension V-belt:

1. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
2. Open lower wheel cover, and loosen motor mount cap screws shown in Figure 54.

Figure 54. Motor mount screws.

3. Push motor to the left (as viewed from front of machine) until there is approximately 1/4" deflection in V-belt.
4. Re-tighten both cap screws and close wheel cover.

-46- G0555X (Mfd. Since 9/17)

Replacing V-Belt

To ensure optimum power transmission from motor to blade, V-belt must be in good condition and be properly tensioned.

Replace V-belt if it shows signs of cracking, fraying, and excessive wear.

Items Needed

• Hex Wrench 6mm ........ 1
• Open-End Wrench or Socket 13mm ........ 1
• Replacement V-Belt ........ 1

Qty

To replace the belt:

1. DISCONNECT BANDSAW FROM POWER!
2. Open both wheel covers.
3. Remove bandsaw blade.
4. Loosen motor mount bolt shown in Figure 55.

Wheel Mount Bolt

Figure 55. Wheel mount bolt.

5. Move body of motor so motor adjustment bolt slides to the right-hand side of adjustment slot.
6. Pull belt off of motor pulley.
7. Unthread wheel mount bolt shown in Figure 55, and slide lower wheel off of bearing shaft.
8. Slip old belt off of wheel pulley and install the new belt in its place.
9. Re-install lower wheel onto bearing shaft, and replace/tighten wheel mount bolt.
10. Position belt over motor pulley.
11. Move body of motor so motor adjustment bolt slides to the left-hand side of adjustment slot.
12. Hold motor in position with one hand and tighten motor adjustment bolt with the other hand.
13. Check belt tension and adjust if necessary (see Tensioning Belt on Page 46).
14. When belt tension is correct, tighten motor hinge bolt and close lower wheel cover.

Shimming Table

To ensure accuracy when cutting stacked workpieces, the table should be 90° to the back of the blade as shown in Figure 56. If the table is not perpendicular to the back of the blade, the table needs to be shimmed.

Figure 56. Squaring table to blade back.

To shim the table:

1. Make sure that the blade is tracking properly and that it is correctly tensioned.
2. DISCONNECT BANDSAW FROM POWER!
3. Loosen the trunnion bolts that secure the trunnions to the table.
4. Place shim stock between the table and the two trunnions to shim the table in the desired direction.

Note: Another way to shim the table is to add washers between the table and the trunnion. Electrical washers are a good choice for this procedure because they are very thin and will allow for fine adjustment.

5. Follow the Aligning Miter Slot instructions on Page 28 to complete this procedure.

Correcting Blade Lead

"Blade Lead" means that the blade does not cut straight when using the fence or miter gauge (see Figure 57). This is a common condition with all bandsaws. Worn or damaged blades may cause lead and replacing them will fix the problem. Still, if your bandsaw is setup correctly and lead occurs, compensate for it by skewing the fence.

Figure 57. Blade leading away from line of cut.

To correct blade lead, do the following steps and make a test cut before skewing the fence:

1. Ensure that you have proper blade tension (refer to Page 23).
2. Ensure that the blade guides are adjusted correctly (refer to Pages 24 & 25).
3. Ensure that the miter slot or fence is parallel to the blade (refer to Page 28).

To skew your fence:

1. Cut a piece of scrap wood approximately 3/4" thick x 3" wide x 17" long. On a wide face of the board, draw a straight line parallel to the long edge.
2. Slide the fence out of the way and cut free-hand along the line. Stop at the halfway point. Turn the bandsaw OFF and wait for the blade to stop.

3. Clamp the board to the bandsaw table without moving it. Now slide the fence over to the board so it barely touches one end of the board.

4. Loosen the four cap screws on top of the fence.

5. Skew the fence as needed until it is parallel to the edge of the scrap piece. You may need to re-adjust the fence locking mechanisms to gain maximum adjustment.

6. While maintaining the skew, tighten the cap screws.

To compensate for lead when making straight crosscuts with the miter gauge, you will need to shift the table:

1. Set the miter gauge to 90°.

2. On a scrap piece of wood, mark a line that is perpendicular to the front edge. Starting where the line begins, cut the board by pushing it through the blade with the miter gauge. The miter gauge should be checked for square before beginning this procedure.

3. Loosen the table mounting bolts, and shift the table to compensate for the blade lead.

4. Repeat Steps 1 & 2 until the blade cuts straight when wood is pushed through with the miter gauge.

NOTICE
If the table is shifted, the fence will be affected since it is attached.

NOTICE
Lead adjustments will change when new blades are mounted on the saw.

Calibrating Fence Scale

You may need to recalibrate the fence scale after changing or adjusting the blade, or if the scale is not producing accurate cuts. Recalibrate the fence scale by adjusting the hairline indicator on the fence and testing your adjustment by cutting a piece of scrap wood.

Items Needed

• Phillips Screwdriver #1 ........ 1

To calibrate scale:

1. Set fence anywhere along scale and locate a piece of scrap wood with at least one straight edge.

   Note: Joint the edge with a jointer if needed to make the edge straight.

2. Hold straight edge of workpiece firmly against fence, and feed workpiece through saw blade with a push stick.

3. Measure the width of cut workpiece. The width of workpiece should match reading on fence scale.

4. If reading on scale is not the same as width of cut workpiece, loosen two screws on magnifying window (see Figure 58) and adjust it to match width of the cut workpiece.

Figure 58. Example of fence scale window and screws.

5. Re-tighten screws—scale is now correctly calibrated.

Wheel Alignment

Wheel alignment is important for optimal performance from your bandsaw. Wheels are properly aligned when they are parallel with each other and in the same plane or “coplanar” (see the illustration in the figure to the right).

When wheels are coplanar, the bandsaw is more likely to cut straight without wandering; and vibration, heat, and blade wear are considerably decreased because the blade is automatically balanced on the wheel.

Bringing the wheel into alignment may require a combination of shimming a wheel and center/lateral tracking the blade.

Items Needed

Checking Wheel Alignment

1. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
2. Remove table.
3. With blade on and properly tensioned, hold a straightedge close to center of both wheels. Make sure straightedge fully extends across rims of both wheels, as shown in Figure 59.

Figure 59. Checking wheel alignment with a straightedge.

4. Referring to Figure 60, check wheel alignment.

Figure 60. Wheel alignment illustration.

-50- G0555X (Mfd. Since 9/17)

Shimming a Wheel

A wheel that is parallel with the other wheel, but is not coplanar, must be shimmed by the distance that it is not in the same plane with the other wheel.

Tip: Thin washers work well for shimming the wheel because they can easily be stacked to get the desired height.

To shim a wheel:

1. DISCONNECT MACHINE FROM POWER!
2. Adjust upper wheel tracking so that it is parallel with bottom wheel.
3. With straightedge touching both rims of wheel that does not need to be adjusted, measure distance away from other wheel with a fine ruler, as shown in Figure 61. The distance measured with ruler is the distance this wheel must be shimmed.

Figure 61. Measuring the distance to shim the wheel to be coplanar.

4. Remove blade.
5. Remove wheel to be shimmed. Place as many shims as necessary to correct the gap measured in Step 3 onto the wheel shaft.
6. Re-install wheel and secure it in place.
7. Re-install blade and properly tension it.
8. Perform previous Wheel Alignment procedure (refer to Page 50 for instructions). If necessary to make wheels parallel, repeat this procedure.
9. Close wheel covers.

Note: The first time you get wheels coplanar, place a mark on each wheel where you held the straightedge, then use this position again in the future if you need to repeat the procedure. This assures repeated accuracy every time you adjust the wheels.

Blade Tensioner

The blade tensioner may need to be reset for one of the following reasons:

• The blade tension quick release lever will not move to the right position when the tension scale is correctly adjusted for the installed blade.
• You have installed a blade of a different length and the tensioner needs tightened.

The procedure below describes how to decompress the spring in the blade tensioner to allow the quick release lever to perform its intended purpose. If the tensioner needs tightened, reverse the procedure to get the desired results.

Items Needed \hfill Qty

• Hex Wrench 2.5mm ........ 1

To reset blade tensioner:

1. DISCONNECT BANDSAW FROM POWER!
2. Release tension lever shown in Figure 62 and remove bandsaw blade.

Figure 62. Blade tension controls/components.

3. Place the new blade onto the wheels and between the blade guide bearings.

   Note: A new blade is used to calibrate the tensioner because it is unstretched.

4. Loosen the set screws in both of the spacers indicated in Figure 63.

5. Back the spacers away from the tension lever crossbar shown in Figure 62.

Figure 63. Loosening the spacer set screws.

6. Pull the tension lever down to the horizontal position.
7. Pull up on the tensioning knob (see Figure 62) until the blade touches the wheel.
8. Thread the upper spacer down until it touches the top of the tension lever crossbar.
9. Tighten the set screw on the upper spacer.
10. Tension the blade (refer to Page 23).
11. Thread the lower spacer down until it touches the top of the sliding bracket indicated in Figure 63.
12. Move the lower spacer back up the shaft about 1-2 turns to leave a small space, and tighten the set screw (see Figure 63).
13. Make sure there is no tension on the blade when the lever is released. If all the tension is not released, the lower spacer needs to be threaded farther down the shaft toward the sliding bracket.

SECTION 8: WIRING

These pages are current at the time of printing. However, in the spirit of improvement, we may make changes to the electrical systems of future machines. Compare the manufacture date of your machine to the one stated in this manual, and study this section carefully.

If there are differences between your machine and what is shown in this section, call Technical Support at (570) 546-9663 for assistance BEFORE making any changes to the wiring on your machine. An updated wiring diagram may be available. Note: Please gather the serial number and manufacture date of your machine before calling. This information can be found on the main machine label.

WARNING

Wiring Safety Instructions

SHOCK HAZARD. Working on wiring that is connected to a power source is extremely dangerous. Touching electrified parts will result in personal injury including but not limited to severe burns, electrocution, or death. Disconnect the power from the machine before servicing electrical components!

MODIFICATIONS. Modifying the wiring beyond what is shown in the diagram may lead to unpredictable results, including serious injury or fire. This includes the installation of unapproved aftermarket parts.

WIRE CONNECTIONS. All connections must be tight to prevent wires from loosening during machine operation. Double-check all wires disconnected or connected during any wiring task to ensure tight connections.

CIRCUIT REQUIREMENTS. You MUST follow the requirements at the beginning of this manual when connecting your machine to a power source.

WIRE/COMPONENT DAMAGE. Damaged wires or components increase the risk of serious personal injury, fire, or machine damage. If you notice that any wires or components are damaged while performing a wiring task, replace those wires or components.

MOTOR WIRING. The motor wiring shown in these diagrams is current at the time of printing but may not match your machine. If you find this to be the case, use the wiring diagram inside the motor junction box.

CAPACITORS/INVERTERS. Some capacitors and power inverters store an electrical charge for up to 10 minutes after being disconnected from the power source. To reduce the risk of being shocked, wait at least this long before working on capacitors.

EXPERIENCING DIFFICULTIES. If you are experiencing difficulties understanding the information included in this section, contact our Technical Support at (570) 546-9663.

NOTICE

The photos and diagrams included in this section are best viewed in color. You can view these pages in color at www.grizzly.com.

COLOR KEY

110V Wiring Diagram

Work Lamp (40-Watt Maximum)

⚡ 120 VAC 5-15 Plug

⚠️ WARNING! SHOCK HAZARD! Disconnect power before working on wiring.

ON/OFF Switch (viewed from behind)

NO OFF

Ww Ww Bk Bk Gn Gn

⚡ 110 VAC 5-15 Plug

Ground Hot Neutral Bk Ww Gn

Motor (110V)

Start Capacitor 200 MFD 125 VAC Bi Bi

Run Capacitor 30 MFD 250 VAC Bl Bl

MOTOR WIRES

3 RED 1 BLACK 2 GRAY 4 YELLOW

Rd Sv Bk Yl Bk Ww Gn

Ground

-54- STOP READ ELECTRICAL SAFETY ON PAGE 53! ⚡ G0555X (Mfd. Since 9/17)

220V Wiring Diagram

Work Lamp (40-Watt Maximum)

⚡ 120 VAC 5-15 Plug

⚠️ WARNING! SHOCK HAZARD! Disconnect power before working on wiring. !

ON/OFF Switch (viewed from behind)

NO Wl Wl Bk Bk OFF Gn Gn

⚡ 220 VAC 6-15 Plug (As Recommended)

Ground Hot Wl Gr Bk Hot

Motor at 220V

Start Capacitor 200 MFD 125 VAC Bl Bl

Run Capacitor 30 MFD 250 VAC Bl Bl

MOTOR WIRES

3 RED Rd Gy 2 GRAY 1 BLACK 4 YELLOW Bk Yl Bk Wl Gn

Ground ⏚

G0555X (Mfd. Since 9/17)

STOP READ ELECTRICAL SAFETY ON PAGE 53! ⚡ -55-

SECTION 9: PARTS

Main

-56- G0555X (Mfd. Since 9/17)

Main Parts List

Main Parts List (cont.)

-58- G0555X (Mfd. Since 9/17)

Table, Fence & Guides

Table, Fence & Guides Parts List

-60- G0555X (Mfd. Since □/□□)

Stand

Labels & Cosmetics

WARNING

Safety labels help reduce the risk of serious injury caused by machine hazards. If any label comes off or becomes unreadable, the owner of this machine MUST replace it in the original location before resuming operations. For replacements, contact (800) 523-4777 or www.grizzly.com.

-62- G0555X (Mfd. Since 9/17)

Grizzly WARRANTY CARD

Name_______________________________________________________________ Street_______________________________________________________________ City ___________________________________ State____________________ Zip ____________________ Phone #_______________________________ Email ________________________________ Model #_______________________________ Order #_______________________________ Serial #_______________________________

The following information is given on a voluntary basis. It will be used for marketing purposes to help us develop better products and services. Of course, all information is strictly confidential.

1. How did you learn about us? ____ Advertisement ____ Friend ____ Catalog ____ Card Deck ____ Website ____ Other:

2. Which of the following magazines do you subscribe to? ____ Cabinetmaker & FDM ____ Popular Science ____ Wooden Boat ____ Family Handyman ____ Popular Woodworking ____ Woodshop News ____ Hand Loader ____ Precision Shooter ____ Woodsmith ____ Handy ____ Projects in Metal ____ Woodwork ____ Home Shop Machinist ____ RC Modeler ____ Woodworker West ____ Journal of Light Cont. ____ Rifle ____ Woodworker’s Journal ____ Live Steam ____ Shop Notes ____ Other: ____ Model Airplane News ____ Shotgun News ____ Old House Journal ____ Today’s Homeowner ____ Popular Mechanics ____ Wood

3. What is your annual household income? ____ $20,000-$29,000 ____ $30,000-$39,000 ____ $40,000-$49,000 ____ $50,000-$59,000 ____ $60,000-$69,000 ____ $70,000+

4. What is your age group? ____ 20-29 ____ 30-39 ____ 40-49 ____ 50-59 ____ 60-69 ____ 70+

5. How long have you been a woodworker/metalworker? ____ 0-2 Years ____ 2-8 Years ____ 8-20 Years ____ 20+ Years

6. How many of your machines or tools are Grizzly? ____ 0-2 ____ 3-5 ____ 6-9 ____ 10+

7. Do you think your machine represents a good value? ____Yes ____No

8. Would you recommend Grizzly Industrial to a friend? ____Yes ____No

9. Would you allow us to use your name as a reference for Grizzly customers in your area? Note: We never use names more than 3 times. ____Yes ____No

10. Comments: _______________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________________________________

CUT ALONG DOTTED LINE

FOLD ALONG DOTTED LINE

Place Stamp Here

GRIZZLY INDUSTRIAL, INC. P.O. BOX 2069 BELLINGHAM, WA 98227-2069

FOLD ALONG DOTTED LINE

Send a Grizzly Catalog to a friend:

Name__________________________________________ Street__________________________________________ City_________________State_________Zip_________

TAPE ALONG EDGES--PLEASE DO NOT STAPLE

WARRANTY AND RETURNS

Grizzly Industrial, Inc. warrants every product it sells for a period of 1 year to the original purchaser from the date of purchase. This warranty does not apply to defects due directly or indirectly to misuse, abuse, negligence, accidents, repairs or alterations or lack of maintenance. This is Grizzly's sole written warranty and any and all warranties that may be implied by law, including any merchantability or fitness, for any particular purpose, are hereby limited to the duration of this written warranty. We do not warrant or represent that the merchandise complies with the provisions of any law or acts unless the manufacturer so warrants. In no event shall Grizzly's liability under this warranty exceed the purchase price paid for the product and any legal actions brought against Grizzly shall be tried in the State of Washington, County of Whatcom.

We shall in no event be liable for death, injuries to persons or property or for incidental, contingent, special, or consequential damages arising from the use of our products.

To take advantage of this warranty, contact us by mail or phone and give us all the details. We will then issue you a "Return Number," which must be clearly posted on the outside as well as the inside of the carton. We will not accept any item back without this number. Proof of purchase must accompany the merchandise.

The manufacturers reserve the right to change specifications at any time because they constantly strive to achieve better quality equipment. We make every effort to ensure that our products meet high quality and durability standards and we hope you never need to use this warranty.

Please feel free to write or call us if you have any questions about the machine or the manual.

Thank you again for your business and continued support. We hope to serve you again soon.

grizzly.com®

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