A GFCI receptacle can't be split, but there's no reason a
split-receptacle (non-GFCI) couldn't be wired to the LOAD sides of 2
separate SFGC's (4 wires plus ground connected to split receptacle).
This may have been true with the first generation GFCIs from the
1980s. But for a modern GFCI, if a motor trips it, it is because the
motor has a ground fault, and the motor should be fixed or replaced.
While Stan is correct technically, for the sake of the poor SOB having
to reverse-engineer the wiring 20 years from now at the next remodel, I
would recommend against it. Wire things up vanilla, and label the runs
in the panel (sharpie works great) and at the junction boxes. Plus
labeling the breakers, of course. An annotated floorplan nailed to wall
near the service panel, is a a wonderful gift to electricians not yet born.
Amen to that, "aem".
(Although that level of documentation seems to violate the Electrician's
Creed, which must have a clause in it that reads something like "Thou
shalt not label any panels unless the homeowner or inspector maketh you").
Found--the gene that causes belief in genetic determinism
When I worked with the phone company, it was traditional, at a
complicated site, that said something like, "Joe, installer # xyz is
familiar with this installation."
Of course, when Joe retired or got transferred, you were, once again,
out of luck.
I'm almost certain that I read that you can't have separately
protected circuits sharing a box. Perhaps this only applies to outlet
boxes and not to junction boxes. If I can do it with fewer boxes, that
would be great. Do you have a reference for that?
Or, now that I'm thinking about it more, maybe this falls into a gray
area. The circuits don't actually terminate in the box, but the wires
themselves don't just pass through, either. There will most definitely
be wire nuts involved..
I agree with Wayne, RBM and gfretwell. The number of circuits in a box
is limited by the number of wires you can have in the box.
If an electrician can't figure it out it is natural selection.
If others can't figure it out they shouldn't be working on electrical.
If circuits have a common neutral, the breaker has to be 2 pole.
On Mon, 17 Aug 2009 20:12:40 -0700 (PDT), rangerssuck
That is what I would do. I don't think I would want extra lengths of
romex that will be hot until the other work. Having each outlet on a
separate circuit is good for the kitchen.
You should also consider if you do use boxes, they will have to be
accessible when the basement work is done.
Don't forget, kitchen outlets have to be GFCI.
The way I read the OP they will just be dead ends. And won't be 'hot'
until later hooked up the new panel/service. Or will be hooked up
temporarily to provided some limited outlets until other work is
You usually install a new service at or near the existing one, as all the
existing cables are going to have to be rerouted into the new equipment, or
a feeder will have to go from the new equipment to feed the existing
equipment if it will remain as a sub panel. For neatness and simplicity, I
would leave long tails and no junctions, especially if you have any heavy
loads like electric ranges or cooktops. FYI, Nec requires a minimum of 2-20
amp circuits for kitchen outlets. All counter top outlets must be GFCI
protected. Every counter space 12" or larger requires an outlet. At any
point along a counter space, you must be within two feet of an outlet
I'd pick C and D. Put a new subpanel in the basement just under the
kitchen, wire all the new work to it, and run a single big cable back
to the old main panel, with enough slack in it to re-route to wherever
the new main panel will be. One run of heavy-gauge cable will be less
work than making all those runs in romex, plus you can make the new
main panel a little smaller than it would need to be otherwise.
With your range wired to the new subpanel, you may find that you can
use the routing that its cable used back to the old panel to route
your new subpanel feed. Might save a bit of drilling.
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