Where does cutting back a well twisted and soldered joint violate that??
Or anything recommended violate that??? The ground connector, twisted and soldered with no tape meets the requirement (assuming solid wires)
Twisted (mechanical) plus solder meets code. soldered and taped without twisting does not. Soldered without twisting does not.
Soldering is NOT a mechanical connection under the code.
Just like a "back-stab" connection.
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Just hijacking along...
re: The related item it suggested was a 5 pack of pitons (the things mountain climbers pound into rocks to secure lines).
Makes sense to me. The last thing I want to have happen when hanging off a cliff a couple of hundred feet above some jagged rocks is for a mosquito to start gnawing on my neck.
Bug repellent and mountain climbing gear go hand in hand.
From: Newsgroups: alt.home.repair Sent: Wednesday, August 26, 2009 9:35 PM Subject: Re: Wire nut w/5 #12
Not like a back stab connection. With a back stab you have like a millimeter connection on 2 sides of the wire. With the push in connectors the connection inside kinda wraps around the wire covering almost the full wire where it makes contact
Right, just not for the EGC.
Wayne
You are supposed to solder last. If you cut it after you solder it, you no longer guarantee that it is mechanically secure without the solder.
I disagree. I would say that connection "depends solely on solder". Clearly it depends on the solder to be an acceptable splice, and since the solder is only added element to make the splice, it depends solely on the solder.
Anyway, that issue is mute, because the 2008 NEC prohibits soldered splices for the EGC by omitting them from the list of acceptacle connection methods in 250.8(A).
So go ahead and solder the grounded and ungrounded conductors, but for the grounding conductor, you would need to do something else, like crimping before soldering.
Cheers, Wayne
Oh it's undoable. You just cut right below the solder and start over. If you did it right, there's enough wire there to do that 3 or 4 times.
ya and for a number of years the speed limit was 55. What's your point? No one's opening up the tape and looking.
But they usually sell small packs of common stuff.
I suggested the chocolate block, because we used those in Europe on all sizes of conductor. House wiring was 220V of course. Wire nuts were prohibited as inferior, and I have to admit they are, though they usually work.
I've never checked NEC and don't know if the chocolate block is legal here. But it's completely secure, and completely checkable - you can see if you got the connection perfect or not, unlike a wire nut.
Can you provide a link to a "chocolate block", all my searches don't find any electrical connectors.
Thanks
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quoted text -
I saw them also, but on reading the fine wording it stated "for ground connections". Also, how would the block be any different than back- stabbed recepticals, which are no longer allowed for #12 wire???
Red
I saw them also, but on reading the fine wording it stated "for ground connections". Also, how would the block be any different than back- stabbed recepticals, which are no longer allowed for #12 wire???
Red
I read the label on the container of the Ideal In-Sure Push-In connector, and it does not mention for ground connections anywhere. It says #12 - #20 solid, and also various sizes of stranded copper only. The way these differ from backstab receptacles is there is more surface area contact. On the label it says 600V, but stamped on the device is 20A 300V. Also on the label is a heat rating of 105C (221F).
Look here
But I really don't know about NEC in the US. When I worked in Europe I never saw anything else, they came in multiple sizes. Understand I supervised electricians but am not one myself. And sometimes the language barrier got in the way. But you could crank down on those chocolate blocks as tight as you needed. They were absolutely secure with no strain relief required. And they are completely inspectable - after tightening you can see if a wire slipped out or didn't make contact, unlike a wire nut where it's all hidden.
Musta worked in the UK.
Looks like the screws stay accessible (a hazard). Are there covers?
I have read that you snap off the number of chocolate block terminals you need (probable source of the name) - broken ends stay insulated?
The nearest product in the US is probably AlumiConn from King innovation:
it is screw terminal, like the UK chocolate blocks above. Was made for copper - aluminum connections but good for copper - copper.
3 ports; wire range #10-18 I suspect these are significantly more expensive than the 2 below.The 2 products in this thread (posted by gore) are both push in:
Ideal
2, 3, 4, 5, 6 ports; generally #12-20, one #10Gardner Bender PushGard? Push-in Wire Connectors
2, 3, 4, 8 ports; #12-22; easy to remove (GB says)Anyone know how the connection is made in Ideal and GB? Specifically why they are better than backstabs?
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