Thanks. Ought to be able to barb and clamp that onto tubing, and adapt to the garden hose output.
For the moment, my Nomad sprayer is working reasonably well. Two trailers done, so far. They each took two galons of pink, to flush the lines. I had to go buy more jugs of pink.
This is a big learning experience, for me.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
Hose barb.
2 gallons seems like a lot, but then I've never done a so-called park model. On my 31' motor home, it takes about 3/4 gallon to flow through to the kitchen sink, bath sink, shower, toilet and 3' garden hose in one of the basement compartments. The 1st time I did it, I know I 'wasted' a lot, but now it's pretty routine. And, it's not quite as critical for me, living in western NC as it was when living in the Chicago area. I think I mentioned this in one of my previous replies, but you should drain and bypass the water heater. That way you don't have to waste pink stuff in the water heater.
I'm sure I've wasted a lot. Yes, you did mention to bypass the water heater. Sadly, the two I've done so far, no sign of a bypass valve. A friend of mine comments "these must be older models". I'm sure they are. I will probably use a lot more pink, in that case.
So far, a couple of the trailers have outdoor shower. Flex hose, and hand shower, outdoors. Must be so you can spritz off, after a day in beach sand, before coming indoors? Washing the dog? Why would there be a flex hose and hand shower in outdoor compartment?
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
If you aren't draining the water heater and are only using 2 gal of AF you aren't doing the job properly. The WH is going to be at least 5gal capacity so without bypassing it will require at least 5gal of AF to fill.
Again you do not need to leave the system completely full of AF either, just ensure that any remaining liquid in the system is AF.
The proper efficient procedure would be:
- Turn off and disconnect the water supply
- Drain the system from the low point drains (open high point faucets to let air in, a gallon or two should come out the drains)
- Drain the water heater (5 gal min should come out)
- Close the faucets and WH drain
- Use compressed air for ~1hr to blow remaining water out the low point drains
- Pump AF into the system until it's flowing from the low point drains (bucket there to catch it)
- Drain from the low point drains into the collection bucket
- Drain the WH into the collection bucket
- Close up the system
- Pour a cup or two of AF into each toilet or drain trap
This should leave only AF remaining in any low points in the system and things properly winterized without leaving everything full of expensive AF. Blowing all the water out first ensured you are diluting the AF as little as possible so it is readily reusable on the next trailer.
The key thing to remember is that you do not have to have everything full of AF to winterize it, you only have to replace any water that can't be readily drained with AF, i.e. any low points in the plumbing. Presuming small water heaters and not many low points in the plumbing you should need perhaps 6-8 gal of AF overall to do all the trailers.
Thanks, I might print this off. What I'd been doing so far, is to hook up compressed air. Burp out the various faucets. A couple have a WH drain petcock, which gets opened. Burped out. And then, the pump with the pink stuff, pink out all the faucets. Which pink takes care of the traps.
One or two, the WH drains via removing the anode. That's a bit more work, bleed off the pressure, and then gravity drain. I found that removing the anode while the system is still under air pressure, results in me needing to go home for dry clothes. Lot of sediment particles in the WH, also.
I've not found a bypass valve behind the WH, any of the trailers. Not found a low point drain, either. Must be older trailers?
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
If you aren't draining the water heater and are only using 2 gal of AF you aren't doing the job properly. The WH is going to be at least 5gal capacity so without bypassing it will require at least 5gal of AF to fill.
Again you do not need to leave the system completely full of AF either, just ensure that any remaining liquid in the system is AF.
The proper efficient procedure would be:
- Turn off and disconnect the water supply
- Drain the system from the low point drains (open high point faucets to let air in, a gallon or two should come out the drains)
- Drain the water heater (5 gal min should come out)
- Close the faucets and WH drain
- Use compressed air for ~1hr to blow remaining water out the low point drains
- Pump AF into the system until it's flowing from the low point drains (bucket there to catch it)
- Drain from the low point drains into the collection bucket
- Drain the WH into the collection bucket
- Close up the system
- Pour a cup or two of AF into each toilet or drain trap
This should leave only AF remaining in any low points in the system and things properly winterized without leaving everything full of expensive AF. Blowing all the water out first ensured you are diluting the AF as little as possible so it is readily reusable on the next trailer.
The key thing to remember is that you do not have to have everything full of AF to winterize it, you only have to replace any water that can't be readily drained with AF, i.e. any low points in the plumbing. Presuming small water heaters and not many low points in the plumbing you should need perhaps 6-8 gal of AF overall to do all the trailers.
Bypass valves seem to not be standard equipment on most RVs, even though the bypass kits sell for
I'd sure love to learn if there is a trick to finding the low point drain. I havn't found one, yet.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
Bypass valves seem to not be standard equipment on most RVs, even though the bypass kits sell for
I don't know how you would get the fluid through the hot water lines, but it's good to put a little in the hot tank to make sure there is no pure water. My 1988 park model has a bypass.
Greg
My hot tank has a twist valve like radiator, outside, near bottom.
Greg
Mine was 3 gallons.
Not necessarily older, just cheaper.
Not sure if this did any good. I put the pressure gadget on, and then open the sink in the kitchen. Farthest from the intake. When the pink came out of the cold faucet, I put my hand over the aerator, and opened the hot. So the pink was forced back into the hot tubing.
Also drained the water heater.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
I don't know how you would get the fluid through the hot water lines, but it's good to put a little in the hot tank to make sure there is no pure water. My 1988 park model has a bypass.
Greg
A couple had petcocks, and a couple had removable anodes. The anodes are a PIA.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
My hot tank has a twist valve like radiator, outside, near bottom.
Greg
I'm wondering if you opened the heater drain before you did the reverse thing. You would lose some fluid, but at least head toward the tank in reverse.
Greg
Water heater drain was closed, when I did the reverse thing at the kitchen sink faucet.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
I'm wondering if you opened the heater drain before you did the reverse thing. You would lose some fluid, but at least head toward the tank in reverse.
Greg
I have a 2006 motor home and it does not have a low point drain.
Perhaps I'm not negligent, or insane, after all? Thanks.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
I have a 2006 motor home and it does not have a low point drain.
One last trailer to pink, and disconnect the sewage hose. A couple of the units, the sewage hose had plenty of, uh, sewage. The corrugated design of the hose is guaranteed to trap some.
I'm using a LOT more pink than expected. I started with 6 jugs. Went back and got 4 more, and then 4 more last night. I may be able to recover some pink, in the spring. I'll save a couple empty jugs just in case. And will do what I can with that.
Blowing out the lines before the pink, probably saved me a lot of diluted pink. Also less likely to freeze lines.
Feral cats like dry catfood.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
If the trailer is set up as shown, in the linked photo, it's a lot easier to get underneath, and drain the pipes.
Or you could, put floats on it, and drive it to a warmer climate.
Not quite that bad, but they do have access, under. They do not have skirting.
Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus
If the trailer is set up as shown, in the linked photo, it's a lot easier to get underneath, and drain the pipes.
Or you could, put floats on it, and drive it to a warmer climate.
HomeOwnersHub website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.