Why Insulation in Inside Wall?

It is a damper to prevent the drywall from acting as a soundboard.

Reply to
salty
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But if the rock is mounted on the the opposite sides of the studs w/o isolation it still transmits.

I'm not saying it doesn't have some benefit and it depends greatly on how much but a typical exterior wall cavity w/ the air volume and uncompressed batt won't make a tremendous difference. If they did put in extra and took some extra steps it can...

Reply to
dpb

jim evans wrote: ...

Start at upper point and go down instead of up and use something stiffer and smaller diameter (like baling wire size/stiffness) initially.

What is the actual insulation and how compressed is it? If they really packed the cavity full (was assuming just a R-9 batt in a 2x4 wall which would leave a lot of air space) may be a trick. How far you gotta' try to go?

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Reply to
dpb

Just use wire conduit on the outside of the wall. They have that fancy designer conduit.

Reply to
Blattus Slafaly

We insulated our half bath walls with fiberglass. It doesn't help much with noise. It might keep a full bath warmer after a shower though.

Reply to
Art

How far does the snake go? It may be hitting the blocking that is required by some building codes about halfway up the wall.

Reply to
J. Clarke

Hi, That insulation is good thing. To me more important than hanging a flat panel on the wall. You can run a cable without disturbing insulation. Pro installers, electricians do it all the time.

Reply to
Tony Hwang

About 5-6 feet.

Reply to
jim evans

The reason I'm trying from the bottom is because the hole at the bottom (near the floor) is concealed by the entertainment center, and if I can't get the wire through the wall I didn't want to cut a hole where it will be very visible.

Reply to
jim evans

snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Thats an old wive's tale. Egg cartons have absolutely no acoustic reduction properties, and are a fire hazard. Iron down stacks are still the best way to stop drain noise, or double sheething the wall. Mass stops sound.

Reply to
RickH

Make sure you are using a skinny 1/4" snake with no hook on it at first to try and push your way up. A fat thick snake is not going to help. If you are hitting something like blocking, then your SOL. Could you try another stud bay by moving left or right of where you are working?

Reply to
Mikepier

I agree, you only get minimal noise reduction unless you build a wall with 2x6 top and bottom plates and 2x4 staggered studs so you have 2 isolated drywall panels on each side. This is the proper way to build a sound-reducing wall with normal building materials:

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Top down view of staggered 2x4 studs on 2x6 plates, then you insulate for maximum quietness. This is a great method for home theatre rooms, furnace rooms, etc.

Reply to
RickH

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Well I can see my ascii art work failed because the text wrapped.

But the idea is to build 2 isolated 16 inch OC stud walls on 2x6 plates with 2x4's, offsetting the studs by 8 inches. Sound will not transmit easily because one sheet cannot vibrate the opposite sheet because there are no common studs that hang both sheets.

Reply to
RickH

innews: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Egg cartons were often used in recording studios in the 1950's. The walls would get covered with them to kill echos without making the room completely "dead"

Reply to
salty

What about the other suggestion of using smaller diameter/stiffer object to probe? What was result of that experiment. If, as Mike says, you're hitting blocking, your choice is give up or cut an access hole to drill through it.

You're not going to fight both the insulation and gravity going upwards w/ anything that isn't rigid enough to poke through.

Is it just fiberglass batts or something more dense? If the former and you're willing to sacrifice a large hole where it will eventually be hidden, a piece of ply a couple inches wide or so and long could possibly be used to make a channel against the wall by compressing the insulation. Similar idea could be tried w/ piece of (say) flex copper tubing...where's there's a will there's a way.

Still it'll be far easier from the top going down unless there's blocking in the way, of course as noted...

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Reply to
dpb

Well, my previous home had ALL of the interior walls insulated, and it was MUCH quieter than my current home that doesn't have ANY interior walls insulated.

Reply to
Ron

Again, it depends on what was actually done. As someone else noted, it's mass and isolation that do sound deadening effectively, and a simple fiberglass batt doesn't accomplish much of either.

That's not to say one can't do effective sound isolation, but it has to be more than simply adding 3" pink glass in a tubafor wall to be of much benefit. So, your builder apparently knew what were doing and took some steps.

As noted earlier, that's what I presumed (perhaps erroneously, he's not come back w/ a real clarification when asked that I've seen so far) OP had as that's what I ran into most frequently.

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Reply to
dpb

I bought the home from a guy that was a contractor, so he knew what he was doing. VERY nice custom built home that I stupidly let my ex-wife have!

Reply to
Ron

I haven't come up with anything like that to try yet. A clothes hanger just bends and isn't long enough anyway. The fish tape at the nearby hardware is $45 and I'd rather not spring for that much for this one-time job.

The studfinder shows no blocking.

Faced fiberglass bats

Reply to
jim evans

It should not cost that much. A 25 foot fishtape at Lowes is like $15.

A clothes hanger will not work. Even if it was long enough, its not flat and rigid to poke through the insulation. It sounds like somebody really stuffed insulation in that wall.

Just curious, is the electrical outlet already on the wall behind the TV? If its an an old work box, you can take out and possibly use that as an access point to snake the wires up the wall.

Reply to
Mikepier

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