There is a technique for repairing & cleaning these units. It involves
drilling a small hole at the top, and another at the bottom. The space is
filled with a cleaning fluid. (Effectiveness is dependant on how bad the
filming is, & how long it has been there). The fluid is drained & rinsed.
The holes are plugged with "one-way" valves, that allow dry air movement
(thermal expansion) but do not allow for moisture. If anyone is interested,
I will try to find the vendor's (franchise seller) web site.
In the particular example of which I wrote, we would not replace the windows
because of the leak, but because the wooden window frames are badly rotted.
The contractors we have discussed this with are not convinced that the
windows could be saved and cleaned well enough for reinstallation (extra
labour costs) to be cost effective in new frames. I personally have
little confidence in the quality of the work to be expected with the lowest
price (rebuild frames) received. Then there is still the maintenance issue.
With the owner's past history of poor exterior maintenance, I am afraid that
rebuilding rotting wood frames is asking for continuing trouble.
On second thought, considering that new battery packs for today's cordless
tools sell for not much more than the cost of the cells inside them, it's
probably not worth anyone's while to rebuild these things. But still, as
with my Philips/Norelco shaver I mentioned previously, I'm certain there are
other cordless-appliance instances where taking this kind of creative
initiative can be well worth the bother (except when one just doesn't have
the free time to spare, of course).
I wish it were that easy. I can tell you that 4.6 amps at 120 volts
translates to 18 inch pounds of theoretical torque at 2600 rpm. BUT
(you knew there would be a but, didn't you?) that doesn't consider
friction losses in the gear box which will eat a lot of that torque.
And it doesn't consider that the motor will slow down when a load is
applied, and will generate more torque at lower speeds. Just how much
torque it can develop is determined by the torque curve of that
particular motor. That particular drill probably won't develop as much
ultimate torque as a good cordless.
Torque alone is not a good indicator of performance because it ignores
speed. If you grab the chuck, the cordless seems stronger, especially
in low gear. But when put to the task of drilling, your "Slugger" is
whizzing around at close to 2600 rpm, while the cordless is chugging
along at under 1400, even in high gear.
Consumers are left without reliable ways to compare one cordless to
another, much less cordless to corded. Check out the Consumer Reports
article where they found some higher-voltage drills didn't develop as
much power as other lower-voltage ones. That's why I said ignore the
specs and buy what feels good in your hand. The major brands all put
out enough power for most of our uses. When that's not enough, grab
your extension cord.
But you are right that cordless cannot develop as much power as even a
medium duty corded drill.
By the way, a 4.6 amp 2600 rpm B&D wasn't exactly what I had in mind
when I suggested a corded drill for those times when your cordless
couldn't get the job done. I was thinking more along the lines of this
7.8 amp Dewalt geared to turn 850 rpm.
(Amazon.com product link shortened)"8013.
You won't have any trouble knowing whether that one is stronger than a
"Every man is my superior in that I can learn from him."
I am not that farmiliar with the Panasonic line as they are not retailed
widely in my area but I can tell you that the Ah does stand for amp hour and
tells how many amps are delivered for one hour by the battery or vise versa
1 amp for x number of hours. So the higher the number the better, but no
cordless tool will be able to compete with a good corded rival. As for
prices on the Panasonic site I would think like most manufacturers they will
publish the full list price on their site so their resellers can always
sell for less than that price. Many manufactures don't list any prices and
thoese that do usually put up a high recomended list price which no one
sells it for and that price makes every reseller's price look good.
I personally like Porter Cable the best .
hope this helps
> Presently have an Hitachi cordless 14.4v. impact driver.
Use it for
I have not really heard of Hitachi power tools but that maybe just in
Generally Bosch are well known for their reliable motors in drills -
sure about cordless ones though?
Have you looked at DeWalt (Black and Decker's professional arm)?
I don't know much about DeWalt tools in terms of standing quality-wise,
other than my Home Depot carries them (which, in my estimation, is not much
of an endorsement). Interesting you say that DeWalt is the professional arm
of Black & Decker! I wasn't aware of that.
I had an older 14.4 volt Bosch and when
it "disappearded," I immediately
went and got another Bosch 14.4. BTW,
don't put it on the trunk door of
your wife's car ... nuf said. The one
thing that I like about the Bosch
is the one hand keyless chuck. There is
no back ring to hold. The shaft
internally locks when the dirll is not
running, so it tightens with one hand.
BTW, the new one also has some
ratchetting as it tightens. This is a
unit. BTW, someone mentioned that
DeWalt is the pro arm of B&D, well
Bosch and Skil are together (at least in
the US); Bosch being the higher end.
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