That expense is common to most cars. I had a 1980 Mustang. The heater core
was right behind the glove compartment. 2 screws to remove a small panel, 2
hose clamps in the engine compartment and the core slid right out. Since I
had to replace my core twice in the 6 years I owned the car, I'm sure glad
they made it easy. All cars should be designed that way.
It's possible that you have a small leak somewhere. Such leaks may not
leave water under the truck but will leave a white spot where the leak is
occuring. This is really obvious on black radiator hoses. How old are the
hoses. It may be time to replace them.
If you believe that you have a head gasket leak, take your car to a
mechanic. A leaking head gasket could put water into the oil, which should
be pretty obvious since you are losing gallons of fluid ,or the leak could
be putting water into the combustion chamber where it gets evaporated and
comes out the exhaust.
A good mechanic should be able to diagnose your problem.
Depends on the car. MOST are now accessed from under the dash. Worst
one I experienced was on , IIRC, an XJC Jag. Book time was well over
12 hours. In the instructions, the first line was "remove parcel shelf
from behind rear seat". Then you removed trim, piece at a time as the
screws were exposed untill you got to the dash board, which took a few
hours to dissassemble and remove before you could even SEE the heater
box. Then after dissassembling the heater and replacing the core
(might have been AC condenser - cannot remember) the long and tedious
lob af reassembling the dash, and then re-installing all the trim
began. The mechanic who was working on it (a british car expert who
worked for me for a while) managed to pull the job off in about 8
hours - it wasn't his first time!!!!
On 7/7/14, 12:30 PM, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
One of my coworker's solutions on his personal vehicles was to
just cut whatever plastic was in his way in the engine compartment.
Duct tape and maybe silicone sealed things back up. He doesn't drive
fancy vehicles by any means.
On Monday, July 7, 2014 9:02:46 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I've never seen a car where the engine compartment was separated from
the dash by plastic. It's steel. And with the engine compartment chock
full of everything today, you can't even get at it to cut it. Plus it
would be interesting to know how one cuts it without destroying all
the stuff, eg wiring, regrigerant lines, motors, hoses, etc that you can't
see that are on the cabin side.
Mid sixtied GM heater MOTORS required removal of the front inner
dender to get to - which pretty well meant you removed the right front
fender. We used to cut a hole in the inner fender to get the motor out
and bolt an old licence plate over it.
I owned a Mark X and to this day believe that when they built the car, some
dude held the power steering pump in place while they built the car around
it. I had an aftermarket AC on the car (installed by previous owner) that
hung off the front of the engine block with a bracket that blocked access to
the number 1 spark plug. You had to remove the AC and all the belts for the
alternator, water pump, etc. just to service it. While I can't blame Jaguar
per se for that, it was the worst design I've ever encountered.
Even the Volvo 142's windshield wiper motor was easier to get to. I just
drilled into the dash using a wide diameter hole saw. The engine, a tiny 4
banger that sat in the middle of a cavernous engine compartment, was so
accessible you could probably fit two people into the compartment along with
the engine. Both the Jag and the Volvo were made of very thick steel that
has long since disappeared from cars because of weight. The Jag required an
extra fee at registration time because it was so heavy.
Anyone here ever have to tune wire wheels by hand? Make tuning three Solex
carbs look like child's play. (-:
Not sure how many other cars had it, but the Mark X had "anti-creep"
controls which applied pressure to the brakes if the car was at idle even if
you took your foot off the brake. Until the engine sputtered or died, that
I had a '51 Chevy where the master cylinder definitely was the first thing
bolted to the frame before the body was added. It wasn't on the firewall but
was under the floor. There was an inspection plate so you could fill it, but
heaven help the poor bastard (me) who had to remove it to replace the seals.
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