THANK YOU!!!
Wealth of information there. Took a few days to get downloaded, [dial up] but worthwhile.
The expansion joint from Trim-Tex is very interesting. I actually have the 'extra' stud inside the wall, so using it should be easy.
Any ideas on how to download Chapter 1? kept getting an error on that one.
Any ideas on how you finish that product? It's totally unclear from the datasheet. What are you looking at on the wall
trades.http://www.usg.com/resource-center/gypsum-construction-handbook.html#>>
installed:
I just tried and it took a few seconds to get other chapters but chapter one gives this error:
Not Found
The requested URL /documents/construction-handbook/chapter1.pdf was not found on this server.
You may want to send an email to them report the broken link.
Mud to the protected gap, pull protective strip, then sand. You can paint inside the gap, or not..
You're looking at an open V gap in the wall/ceiling, painted or not. Drywall control joint might be the best search term. This shows a top view.
I have been in the drywall business for some 30 years so I'll toss out a few suggestions...With a run that long you are probably crossing a structual beam , post or whatever..Which is fine if you run the 12 foot sheets horizontal and make sure the stress point is in the middle of the sheet but I'm guessing the sheets are run vertical or if the sheets were run horizontal there was a floor to ceiling butt joint put there..Either way you're screwed so to speak and not even Durabond is gonna help..Here is what I would do..
Cut the drywall back a few studs on either side of the crack and span the stress point with new drywall..Mud the 2 new butt joints and paint..To much work ??Construct a false beam by screwing 2X4s or whatever you want or have laying around to the wall, sheetrock , add cornerbead and mud...To much work ?? Buy some trim boards and moulding and build a false beam over the spot..Still to much work ?? Buy a 1x4 pine board , nail it to the wall covering the crack and paint it...HTH...
Paint a mural of the Parthenon on the wall. If you don't want to fix it, feature it.
trades.http://www.usg.com/resource-center/gypsum-construction-handbook.html#>>
installed:
You end up with a visible, straight line, joint in the wall much like tooled expansion joints in concrete.
Thanks for all the good suggestions. The sheets are horizontal. I actually was originally leaning toward putting something that looks like it 'belongs' on the wall at that location, but since had forgotten. Think I got used to the 'clean' look.
What is irritating is is that *IF* the tape were 3, or even 4 inches wide, I think the joint would have remained invisible. The tape simply ripped loose on one side and then transferred the crack to its edge. Where the tape did not come loose [perhaps less tension on it] the surface remained crack free.
Temperature did have a lot to do with the crack formation. the room originally set around 90 degrees [i'm old] but now is isolated and has dropped to around 60 - that's when the cracks showed up with a vengence. But, while I've been working in that room, the temp has gone up to around 70 and some of the cracks have turned 'invisible' again. But, must make certain that they cannot form, else they permanently will show [until re-re-repair] Perhaps if I repair this wall in a COLD room, then when the heat comes back, the tape and mud will take the compression better and no crack will form? when it turns cold again.
The human hair is 3/1000 of an inch far less than a single mm. I am having the same issue on a ceiling seam, but the contractor before me used 1/4" drywall and I am loathe to tear it down and do it in 1/2"
I am a applying a second layer of paper tape after sanding a large portion of the mud down.
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