The dude wrote in news:jIWdnaauRdI5- FnVnZ2dnUVZ snipped-for-privacy@comcast.com:
In this particular case, the mfgrs instructions for the particular flooring over a particular existing flooring type is what you really need to follow. They should know their product best as well as following it will keep the warranty valid if it's worth anything to start with.
FWIW, back in the stone age, for Bruce 3/4 T&G, we always used the red resin paper. The black stuff stinks too much. They told us it was to cut down on squeaking. Local real dealer (not big-box) or manufacturer web site, will have the spec sheet for installation. Note that if the rooms are now carpeted, with no hardwood underneath, there is likely a layer of particle board or something that will need to come up, to keep floor from getting taller and interfering with doors, baseboards, and such. If house has forced-air heat, pull up a register and peek in there with a mirror and a flashlight to see what you are dealing with.
I would think the underpad and carpet coming out would be pretty close to the 3/4" floor going in. How old is the house? Chances are the carpet is installed directly on plywood or OSB that is your subfloor, you don't want to remove that. If you didn't fall through it with carpet then its plenty adequate to put your wood floor onto. I've read that staples work better for OSB and nails are better for wood/plywood. I used the red resin paper, some say it isn't necessary but its cheap anyway.
Just put down a Bruce 3/4" hardwood floor. Used the red resin paper also. One thing that I did do was to locate all of the floor joist and screw the decking to them. This will eliminate squeaks both present and future. I eliminated a ton of squeaks, mostly in the kitchen. Floors look awesome....
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