That isn't necessary, IME. Just get a fire going and toss them on, mine burned just fine without any accelerants. -----
- gpsman
That isn't necessary, IME. Just get a fire going and toss them on, mine burned just fine without any accelerants. -----
- gpsman
Fiberglass handles make all that unnecessary (still want to keep them out of the sun).
same to treat window sills.
It is my understanding that the FIRST coat is a 50-50 mix because the turpentine acts as a carrier and drags the BLO deep into the wood's porosity. After that cures, the coating can NEVER go deeper. So, that first coating make as deep as possible, else you'll have shallow film over the wood's surface, not complete encorporation into the wood itself. That was what I was told.
same to treat window sills.
Won't argue with that. But I never cut it with turps, and weathered wood would be sucking up more the next day on the 3rd application. It's very slow to dry. You have to wipe off the excess and then rub the surface with rags to get rid of the oiliness. I'd paint it a few days after that. Oil paint. Fine for tool handles, and sealing up weathered wood. Not good for nicely grained furniture because it darkens up and the grain starts to disappear after a few years. BTDT.
--Vic
Tung Oil
I just buy new one. By the time handle gets rough shape, blade is pretty worn, LOL. I still like wooden handle I don't like fiberglass one.
Simplest solution is linseed oil and a cotton glove (to spread it evenly everywhere on the handle once a year.) Ash makes the best handles, viz. strong and crack-resistant.
I treat mine with regular motor oil. Just buy some cheap oil and rub it on with a rag. Then let it sit in the sun for a day, and give it a second coat. After another day in the sun, wipe the handle with a dry rag to remove any excess, and you're ready to use the shovel.
I put motor oil on my axe handles.
Greg
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