It always annoyed me to get an appliance with that idiotic "fat plug" that kept getting in your way. Every time I see one, I grind it down to normal size, so that I can plug any item in, anywhere.
But, notice. If that idiot shit "polarized plug" ever meant a thing, then why are current appliances NO LONGER equipped with that stupid shit plug? Nothing you buy today even has that extra-thick plug end on it.
That "stupit shit plug" is used to assist in preventing you from getting electrocuted, when it's feasible and useful to do so. For example, on a table lamp, the "shell" part of the socket will be connected to the neutral wire (larger prong of the plug), so as you unscrew the light bulb and the threads become exposed, you can't get a shock off them. On an appliance with no exposed or potentially-exposed electrical connections, it's not so useful.
Eric Law
Dar·win, Charles Robert
Dar·win (där?win), Charles Robert
1809-1882British naturalist who revolutionized the study of biology with his theory of evolution based on natural selection. His most famous works include Origin of Species (1859) and The Descent of Man (1871). ? Dar·win?i·an adjective & noun
If something is double insulated or inherently not polarized, like a transformer, it doesn't need the fat plug.
If you touch the metal part of some toasters and the sink faucet at the same time with the polarized plug in backwards you will get full current thru your body. Don't try it!
If you really meant to say that about a non-broken toaster, then I have a feeling that your entire alimentary tract has somehow become reversed, Martik.
What you say happen only if the toaster develops an internal electrical defect or perhaps if the "metal part" you refer to was an exposed heating element and soimeone was stupid enough to stick their finger into the toaster and touch it. And, depending on the nature of an internal defect, the metal housing of a toaster could be electrically live even with the plug inserted correctly.
Jeff
electrocuted, when it's feasible and useful to do
to the neutral wire (larger prong of the
get a shock off them. On an appliance with
And don't trust that every lamp you buy will be wired correctly either. The typical two wire cord set with a polarized plug on it has a thin raised stripe molded on the entire length of the conductor which will be at neutral potential when the plug is inserted into a properly wired receptacle. That stripe is almost unoticable unless you have a desire to find it.
But, the goonfaddles in factories and lamp shops here and abroad don't always honor the connecting of the "striped" wire to the "white" screw on the lamp sockets, and I've found plenty which were wired "backwards".
Jeff
If by "extra-thick" you mean "extra-wide," I don't think I have found any appliances without that kind of plug. And our 30-year old house has no outlets that the plugs with an extra-wide pin won't fit.
MB
On 11/18/04 11:30 am MilkyWhy put fingers to keyboard and launched the following message into cyberspace:
This sounds like a Troll, yanking everybody's chain, to somehow prove how smart he is. If not, he seriously needs to spend a little remedial time in high school....
Dave
I believe polarized plugs are not required on devices which are double-insulated.
Of course I could turn out to be a member of a lonely religion.
Troll alert! MilkyWhy has an uncanny ability to generate entertaining discussion over and over and over again...
"Entertaining?!" Gimme a break, Wayne!
--JWW
I can see it on a toaster, I can NOT see it on an all plastic power tool.
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