ways to heat up a house

[The Daring Dufas]

I'm used to USA spec equipment but using a higher voltage wouldn't change the speed of the blower motor unless it has a winding for it. Anyway, the controls are probably designed to only feed 110 volts to the motor. As far as more air flow, forced air heating systems are designed for a specific BTU in relation to air flow. If the air flow is increased beyond design limits, efficiency will be lost because the air does not have time to heat up because it is traveling too fast through the heat exchanger. Of course if the air is slowed down, the combustion chamber will overheat. I've seen this happen when someone closes too many registers. Your furnace may be malfunctioning because the burners are lighting and going out over and over again. I would watch the furnace go through a complete cycle to see if it's operating properly. I couldn't find that model number, did you post the correct model number? Perhaps the label will list the BTU and air flow specs for the furnace and you could post it.

TDD

[Bob F]

How good is the wall insulation? If the house is old, it may not have any. If so, insulating it would make a huge difference.

[The Daring Dufas]

You need to stay with the design air flow of your furnace. The wire for the blower in heat mode should be shown on the wiring diagram which is usually pasted to the inside of one of the removable panels. It will show where to plug in the wire on the control board.

TDD

[h]

I find exactly the opposite. I am always MUCH hotter in humid conditions than in dry even when the temperature is exactly the same. The same holds true in the winter. On a dry day 15 degrees isn't so bad but on a wet/humid day it's torture. Adding moisture to the air is not something I would ever do to "feel warmer".

[h]

It's 6000 sq ft, so it's either very old or very new.

[clare]

OP doesn't say where he is, but with 115 v 50 cycle I'd guess somewhere where it GENERALLY doesn't get so cold - and the house is inadequately insulated.

Definitely running the motor on 220 would not make it any better. The motor gets rewired" to run on 220 at the same speed and half the current. DO NOT simply connect the motor to 220 without changing the connections inside. or you WILL get extra heat - but only long enough to burn out the motor.( a matter of minutes)

[Ed Pawlowski]

If the burner is cycling off and on, a booster fan would make no difference. Blower speed too high can reduce the plenum temperature too fast so the burner must cycle faster, but it is not going to make it shut down faster. Just the opposite.

From everything I've read here so far, I'm still back at the limit switches not set properly or not working properly. Blowers only more air, burners make hat. IMO, you need a pro to find the real cause. Oh, and ca we assume you are trying to keep the house in the normal 68 to 72 range that most of us use? Not 85 degrees.

[clare]

Running the blower faster will do the same as a bigger blower. Depending on the circumstances, it MIGHT get more heat to the cold part of the house. closing down a few air outlets in the "warm" part of the hose may help balance the airflow and get more heat to the cold end of the house. It may reduce the TEMPERATURE of the outlet air, but it will increase the volume, so it MIGHT get more heat into the house

- particularly if the volume allowed into the warm part of the house is restricted.

In areas where it generally does not get too cold the airflow ballancing and duct sizing are sometimes not as well optimized as they could be - and if you have central air, and the hot time of the year requires more cooling than the cold time requires heat, the ducting may be optimized for cooling.

It's been unseasonably cold here the last little wile, with -4F or colder nights. Furnace ran 6 hous and 48 minutes today. 267.5 hours so far this season.

[Tony Hwang]

Hi, Indeed, humidifier runs when blower is on. If I need to raise humidity without heat, I just run the blower only.

[Deodiaus]

I live in Memphis, TN and trying to get the [18 year old] house to 72 deg F. The electricity is 110 VAC 60Hz. I mistyped. Often, the furnace is referred to as York P2MP 5 [gas] burner model. There is a humidifier upstairs, but I don't know if it needs to be fed water or nor. There is a slot on the Johnson Control board for a humidifier, but the Aprilaire humidifier is not connected to that.

[mm]

That's not the opposite, that's what I'm saying. The OP is cold and he wants to be hotter.

15^ F? That would be outside, where one can't control the humidity. Where he is it's 10 outside and 62 inside. 15^ C? 61^ F? Humidity would make that torture? But much hotter too?

I added this in the post after the one you answered, " Houses are typically dry in the winter. To go from 10 to 30 percent up to 50 to 75 percent makes an enormous differnence. " For the better, I think, if it was 62^F in the house.

>

[Stormin Mormon]

The guys who design and build furnaces generally know what they are doing. I've read several posts in this thread. Medium speed for heat makes sense. Also look into more insulation. Plastic on the windows, that kind of thing. A humidifier is also a good idea.

[h]

No, doofus, 15F. If you are outside in humid weather it's torture. If it's dry it's fine. Same thing inside (exactly what I said). I heat my house to

50F and I keep it dry as a bone. If I used a humidifier I'd be too cold. Humidity intensifies the temperature, so hot is hotter and cold is colder.

[Jules]

Wall insulation, attic insulation, double-glazing, sealing sources of drafts. Opening curtains on south-facing windows when the sun's heating the windows. Maybe some solar furnace panels on bare bits of south-facing walls, if you can stand to look at them.

Check with your local power company; there might be grants available for all kinds of things.

cheers

Jules

[Stormin Mormon]

A 110 volt motor run on 220 VAC won't run for very long. Couple nanoseconds?

[Deodiaus]

The motor is rated for 110-220 VAC, 50-60 Hz, I guess so that they can sell the same model in both Europe and America.

[Bob F]

But you probably re-wire the connections to it to use it on 220VAC.

[Bob F]

If the furnace is cycling on and off, you are not getting the maximum heat out. You need to figure out why it is turning off before reaching the set temperature, and fix that. It could be as simple as replacing the filter.

[benick]

You're an idiot...Having you house that humid would require dumping GALLONS of water into the air constantly and you would be growing mold and mildew everywhere..The windows would have water running down them...Some walls as well....Your advice is not only stupid but dangerous as well....

[GoHabsGo]

Deodiaus wrote in news:8fa78e82-dd12-4f4b-b29d- [e-mail]:

check to make sure the furnace filter is clean. Sometimes if too dirty, it will put extra load on the fan which will shut off with a thermal check.