Water level indicator

[KenK]

My drinking water is stored in a metal water tank connected to a tap in my kitchen. Since a new company has taken over the refills have become very erratic.

There are small magnetic metal-sheet indicators you can put on propane tanks to show the level. Is there such a thing for drinking water metal tanks? I hate to have water run out just when I need it.

I often wonder if I'm being foolish and should just drink the well water. I did when I was a kid on the farm. (Maybe that's why I turned out to be so stupid!) I can't find a kit to check its health aspects though - chemicals yes, very very few bacteria checks.

TIA

[trader_4]

The ones for a propane tank might work on a water tank too. They are just reacting to the difference in temperature between the part of the tank that has liquid propane in it and the part that doesn't. So, I would think you would see a similar difference with a water tank. But how well they actually work even on a propane tank, IDK. You would think that at times there would be a decent temp difference between the two areas. But I would think at other times, the diff would be so small that the strip might not be able to detect it.

[Retired]

Maybe this could work for you:

[Ralph Mowery]

I doubt they would work on water tanks. The propane comes out as a gas and where the gas is boiling off the liquid is a large temperature and pressure difference.

The water does not boil off the tank to come out unless you are using steam out of the tank.

[FromTheRafters]

They are reacting to the temperature difference when you draw the gaseous portion out, not when it is at equilibrium. It might work with water if the sun shines on it because of the difference in heat capacity though.

[trader_4]

Do they require that gas be in use for them to work? You can't tell if the tank is just sitting there? If so, then it makes more sense, because I agree, you're going to have a bigger temp difference when gas is coming out.

Agree, if it only works when gas is being withdrawn, then it's not going to work with water, at least much of the time. I would think it still could work when there is a temp change, ie it was 35 overnight, now it's 50 outside and the tank is warming. Or vice-versa.

[DerbyDad03]

What is the difference between the old schedule vs. the new and why do you think it may cause you to run out?

If you have a valid reason for your concern (and I'm not doubting you in any manner) have you spoken to the company that took over and explained the issue? Perhaps a simple phone call resolve the issue and eliminate your concerns, without the need to monitor the tank yourself.

[Ralph Mowery]

Doing a little research on the indicators. They work by temperature. Some require you to pour hot water over the strip while on the tank and some don't. They do require you to have the gas flowing for about 10 minutes so the gas will boil off and there is a temperature difference.

There is anoter type that does not require the gas to be on. It uses sound waves like many stud detectors do for the walls in your house. I tried my stud detector on a BBQ tank and it did not seem to work, not that I expected it to.

This type of detector may work for the water tank, or it may not.

[dadiOH]

1. Drill a hole in or near the bottom of the tank.
2. Insert a clear 1/4" vinyl tube.

1. Tape of afix the tube to the side of the tank and extending above it.

The level of water in the tube shows the level of water in the tank. Obviously, you'd need to use some sort of compression fitting - or maybe silicone - where the tube goes into the tank so it doesn't leak.

Where I live, the County will check well water for contaminants. Assuming it is not a shallow well ir is very unlikely to have harmful bacteria.

[Ralph Mowery]

The water was fine, it was the kick in the head from the mule.

[Thomas]

+1 They sell good looking glass rods for this. I can't search from here right now but do a look at Berkley gravity filters. The accessories are there. AquaRain also.

[trader_4]

Best idea so far.

And if they won't test if themselves, they can tell him where to get it tested. I think that's how it works here, if you have a well you have to get it tested to get a CO. And like you say, what kind of well it is matters. An old open well or one that's too close to a septic field, etc is one thing. A proper 80 ft casing well is another.

[CRNG]

On Thu, 5 Jan 2017 11:39:24 -0500, Retired wrote in

That's a nice solution.

[KenK]

DerbyDad03 wrote in news: [e-mail]:

The old service came at regular intervals, these guys come erratically.

I call, they say they'll refill, for example, 1/5/17. Yesterday no one came. This is the usual. I'm about ready to change services. The problem is that big water service owned water tank. I think there may be a problem with removing it, especially if a new tank is moved in before the old one is removed.

[KenK]

"dadiOH" wrote in news:o4mcaq$ao9$ [e-mail]:

Can't, water company owns the tank.

That's beginning to look like my best choice. Have to see who in county does this. It's a deep well, if 90' is deep. Not a sand point, anyhow.

[Retired]

Can you tap the line into the house ? As long as it is before any pump, a vertical tube should work. It does not have to be at the tank. See my earlier post.