Twice in a year, my water heater's pilot light has gone out and the
drip pan overflowed. I cannot tell which causes the other.
The water is not from the heat/pressure release tube, the overflow
does not reach the pilot and there are no live leaks.
your tank is about to fail completely, it begins leaking, puts out the
pilot light, adds water to the drip pan, then rust inside the tank
plugs the leak.
if theres anything that can be damaged by a leak replace tank
On May 14, 1:30?pm, email@example.com wrote:
water leak can occur in flue area, its a tube that runs inside the
tank from burner to chimney flue connection.
I had one of those unexplained outage tanks, pilot out a little water
it finally burst one night water sprayed out the top of the flue pipe
only takes little water to put out a pilot, the heat then dries up
tanks are realtively cheap long life items.
if average life is 10 years cost say 500 bucks installed 50 bucks a
year, about a cheap candy bar a week.
if you run out of hot water buy a larger higher BTU tank. my 50 gallon
75K btu one almost never runs out, my 40 gallon 34,000 btu did by the
end of every shower.......
better tank costs a little more but its mnoney well spent
The plumber came to check the water heater and noted the nearby a/c
unit's condensation overflow uses the same drain. This is a 2nd floor
The drain was clogged and the a/c overflow backflowed into the w/h
pan. This explains why it started again in May after not occuring all
The fix was to cut out some flooring, run individual drains each with
it's own cleanout and trap to the main floor drain and recover the
floor with some sheet metal. Lots of elbows but a total bill of $180.
A new 40-gal natural gas water heater would have been $560 installed
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