My kitchen cabinets are stained wood covered with a thin coat of lacquer.
They are 25 years old. The lacquer finish has become dull and there are tiny
fissures in the (dried-out) wood panels.
I have washed the cabinets thoroughly. The stain and the old varnish are in
good physical condition. Can I brush a layer of varnish over the old
lacquer? Would spar varnish be preferable to polyurethane varnish for
kitchen and bathroom cabinets.
Hey Walter. First and foremost, any finish will require a very
thorough cleaning of those cabinets. You will certainly have to
degrease the cabinets and deal with those cracks in the panels before
you do anything else.
The coatings world has seen a lot of advancement. There are some
great products out there that you may not be aware of.
You could use Deft brushable lacquer. It will take more coats to
finish the cabinets, but it dries extremely quickly and leaves a
beautifully smooth finish. The stuff is noxious, so you may want to
look into this:
I just used Deft on my cabinets which were almost the same as the original
poster described. I took the doors and drawer fronts off and laid them
flat. Three coats was enough to make them look very, very good.
As you say, Deft dries very fast. It is also very easy to sand.
It is noxious so you need good ventilation.
Would spar varnish be preferable to polyurethane varnish for
Ricod Jour wrote:
Boy is Ricod right about cleaning. After you're done, **do it again** with
a quick drying solvent like naptha but the stuff gags me to death! You also
don't want to rub hard with the solvent - more of a pendulum stroke and
change the contact spot on the rag frequently. Did this on an old cherry
dining set and ended up *not* refinishing it. The dirt and old wax that
came off revealed an intact finish which I only had to wax (not saying
that's what you will find).
You can clean very nicely without a lot of highly flammable stuff. For
starters, just household cleaner and water for the basic dried on food
splatters and dust. Mineral spirits, with fine steel wool if needed for
greasy deposits. Wood toothpicks or skewers to dig crud out of corners
or crevices. Mineral spirits again after digging crud out of corners.
Final wipe with denatured alcohol after ms dries, being sure to
ventillate very well and have NO sources of ignition on .. pilot lights,
ciggies, electrical. Dispose of waste and rags properly.
Any lacquer, esp. Deft, is really, really nasty stuff to breathe. After
cleaning, as above, you should be able to use any finish, including
water based. Spar varnish is probably a good deal more difficult to
apply well and more than you need. The most common problem with any
wood finish is not applying enough to properly to seal out the hazards
it is exposed to. If woodgrain isn't "filled", it allows moisture to
seep in and cause fine cracks; same with joints. Clear finish on wood
exposed to strong sunlight acts like a "greenhouse", trapping heat and
deteriorating wood and finish.
| >>Walter R. wrote:
| >>>My kitchen cabinets are stained wood covered with a thin coat of
| >>>They are 25 years old.
| > <snip>
| > Would spar varnish be preferable to polyurethane varnish for
| >>>kitchen and bathroom cabinets.
| > Ricod Jour wrote:
| >>Hey Walter. First and foremost, any finish will require a very
| >>thorough cleaning of those cabinets. You will certainly have to
| >>degrease the cabinets and deal with those cracks in the panels
| >>you do anything else.
| > <snip>
Clear finish on wood
| exposed to strong sunlight acts like a "greenhouse", trapping heat and
| deteriorating wood and finish.
Only lacquer and poly finishes do that
not a "urethane gel" finish
it is alcohol,water,chemical and UV resistant
get with the times,
use the best available finish on the market preferred by most
professionals and restaurants.
I haven't surveyed "most professionals" and don't give a rat's ass what
restaurants use. Just know what I have used and which looks best. As
for "UV" resistant, it doesn't by a long way keep sunlight from
penetrating a clear finish.
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