I must be getting weak in my old age because I cannot unscrew the
threaded fitting on the half inch valve where it is threaded onto the
copper water pipe(which comes up through the floor in my house). I put
a large crescent wrench on the flat part of the valve and a large pipe
wrench on the copper water pipe. It won't budge. Any suggestions
before I call a plumber? I tried tapping the fitting pretty hard. I
bought a quarter turn halve inch valve to replace the old because the
old one is leaking water out the handle. The metal in the old valve
is in bad shape so I would not want to try to replace the rubber
bushings and re-use it.
on 8/10/2007 3:41 PM email@example.com said the following:
If you had to use a pipe wrench on the copper pipe, then it is not
screwed in, but soldered in, and no amount of turning will loosen it.
You'll have to cut the pipe below the valve and then unsolder the valve
from the top pipe before you can install a new valve, which may require
soldering or installation of pressure fittings. If you are not
comfortable with this, get a plumber.
on 8/10/2007 4:26 PM firstname.lastname@example.org said the following:
Perhaps not on that end, but what about the top? Even if screwed in
there, there has to be a union fitting somewhere in the pipe above or
below the valve that unscrews apart so that the valve and pipe threads
Look here for what the union looks like. If you don't have at least one
of these, cutting or unsoldering is the only answer.
http://pexsupply.com/categories.asp?cID 1&brandidThe large nut in the center turns freely and unscrews the two ends. They
made be copper or brass, but they work the same way.
I didn't answer the question fully. Yes, the screwed in part could be
soldered in but that would be a hack job and is not usually done by
plumbers with the right fittings. Solder fittings involve soldering
directly with the copper pipe and and a valve made to accept soldered
copper pipe. See any silver around the threads?
The copper pipe is definintely threaded and I see no evidence of
solder. The uniion is not copper -silver colored so some sort of
alloy. Someone else suggested the threads are corroded, which makes
sense to me. Having been around boats alot I know about galvanic
corrosion. In this case, the alloy would have corrorded and seized the
joint. I am starting to think I need a plumber.
On Aug 10, 4:26 pm, email@example.com wrote:
If it's threaded copper PIPE (like iron pipe, except made from
copper), and not the more common copper tubing (which is soldered),
then you can probably forget about ever getting that valve off. The
steel and copper and moisture created galvanic corrosion that has
permanently welded the two together.
Make sure you're seeing what you think you're seeing. Could this valve
be attached to the copper via a compression fitting? Then you'd need
to turn the nut one way and the valve the other.
I take that back. It oxidezed green, but upon scratching it, it
appears to be steel. The exposed threads are badly corroded. At first
I thought the corrosion was old pipe joint compound, but upon picking
at it, it seems more like corrosion.
On Aug 10, 3:27 pm, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
If you have patience, a Dremel, and some abrasive slitting wheels for it
you could try carefully slicing one or both sides of the female threaded
part of the valve to the point where application of a large screwdriver
in the slot you make may spring it open enough to break the corrosion bond.
Even if you slice a litlle bit of a line up the side of the male pipe
threads, chances are good that a new valve will seal to it if you use
teflon tape AND joint compound when screwing it on.
If the threads on the pipe turn out to be mostly rotted off when you get
the valve off then the depth of the doo-doo you're in will have
Good Luck. Let us know how you make out.
I have met several very fine men who are excellent citizens,
father, etc. But who mix up right and left. Is it possible in
I'll assume that the pipe is close to the floor, and that you
will put the wrenches above the pipe.
The pipe wrench on the tubing from the wall applies turning force
The crescent wrench on the valve applies turning force that way
Now that I'm over 40, I'm having to buy bigger wrenches to
accomplish the same job. So, you may need longer wrenches to get
more force into the fitting.
Christopher A. Young
You can\'t shout down a troll.
Agreed, however, most folks have a BFH, but not all will have an
extender pipe "aka cheater" large enough in diameter to go over their
And while I'm not certain this is really a factor, perhaps the shock
when the BFH is used helps break things free?
Thanks for those words Chris.
I am 73 approaching 74 and in last few years have found I have to use
a little more brains than brute force to accomplish tasks! Also I
depend more on wheelbarrow, and hand truck etc. Sometimes just a
matter of planning work.
Anyway; back to stacking firewood for the winter.
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