Trouble with 2 Stroke - '90's Lawnboy

Howdy All;

I have a lawboy mower that was built in the early '90's that I am having a lot of trouble getting it to run. I can find the model and serial number if it is relevant but I don't have it handy: it says "4hp Commercial" on the tank cover and no PTO for self-propell. It has been very picky about gas since I bought it used two years ago; it won't run if I leave gas in the tank so I drain what is left over back into the can.

The first day I used it this year it fired up with just two pulls and the throttle at full choke. Ever since then though when I've tried to start it the best I would get is a quick and easy start like the first time but it dies and refuses to restart after about 90 seconds of runtime. If I try to restart it sometimes I will get one or two strokes to light off will not run.

I removed the carb and cleaned it out and also cleaned out the tank, both with carb cleaner. I also pulled and replaced the old plug, which was fouled pretty bad after just one season. Neither of those things has made any difference. I am using 87 octane gas straight from the pump mixed 32:1 with real Lawnboy oil as per the markings on the mower.

I'm handy and could follow directions, but I've run out of things to look for. Does anyone out there have a suggestion for what may be wrong with me or my engine? I'd like to keep it running if possible as I can't afford a new mower that could hold a candle to this old beast, when it is running at least :).

Thanks, Matthew

Reply to
mandtprice
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Air cleaner clogged or wet?

Reply to
Mys Terry

Could it be in your area they've recently switched to 10% ethanol, and your jetting is now 14% off?

Dave

Reply to
spamTHISbrp

Gas tank screen/fuel line dirty????

Oren

"My doctor says I have a malformed public-duty gland and a natural deficiency in moral fiber, and that I am therefore excused from saving Universes."

Reply to
Oren

I don't know what the schedule or regulations are for the blends but I am near Chicago so it is a definite possiblity. How would I compensate for that? The gas that ran great was left over from late last year so it might have been winter blend. I played a little with the adjustment on the carb but it didn't seem to make an difference. It could have already been flooded though.

Can this old beast be tuned to run on E10 or E15?

I tried it without the filter or cover just to see if it would start/run on the sidewalk and that didn't make any difference.

Matthew

Reply to
mandtprice

Greetings Matthew...

Ok you have done some good stuff there.

You cleaned out the gas tank, good start.

Did you make sure that the gas was flowing when it was reconnected to the carb??

Ok moving over to the carb, its a pretty simple setup with a float. I presume you look the bowl off and cleaned that out right? Depending on the unit, some carbs have a screw on the bottom that also has two little holes going through it. In the center of that screw SHOULD be a hole that can EASILY get gummed up with 2 cycle gas. Make sure that's clean. Did you make sure that the float in the carb is clean and free moving?

Now one thing you can easily see is the primer. Some machine dont have one others do. If you have a primer, when you prime it look into the carb. The jet is right in the middle behind the choke butterfly. When you prime you SHOULD see a squirt of gas shoot up out of the carb. If not, enough gas isnt getting into the bowl for a few reasons.

Dont dismiss a bad fuel line either, small cracks in it can cause all sort of funny behavior.

Tom

Reply to
BocesLib

I'll check that. I know what you are talking about, but I didn't realize it was anything more special than a small bolt so I will make sure it is clean.

I'm pretty sure the float and its valve are working because the bowl fills as it should but doesn't leak from the jet even when I blow into the gas tank (I know, I know). This one is too new to have the primer bulb; it has a separate butterfly for the choke instead. I know gas gets as far as the bowl, but can't guarantee that it gets any farther.

Matthew

Reply to
mandtprice

of trouble getting it to run.

I think I've narrowed it down to the ignition side. I pulled the plug, closed the safety switch and touched the plug threads to the cooling fins: no spark. I removed the ignition module and cleaned up the contact areas with a sanding pad and reinstalled it. I gave the engine another spin and got one spark. After that I couldn't get anything else.

This is the second lawnboy I've had that died this way: the ignition module works when it feels like it, which is rarely. Is this something that is common with these engines? Is there something I could be doing wrong that these things die out from under me after just a couple of seasons in my hands? The plug is brand new and all the contact points are shiny and clean on both the engine block and the module itself. I also made sure to gap the plug and the module/flywheel to spec.

Matthew

Reply to
mandtprice

Didn't realise they still made 2-stroke mowers even in the 90s. Do they still? Remember them from when I was a kid. I have a 2-stroke snowblower that I idiotically bought used off a guy moving to Florida- works fine, though I can hardly be bothered with it- mixing, etc.

2-stroke makes sense for portable devices, but a mower? That said, I understand your frugality- good luck.
Reply to
Sev

If the carb is sophisticated enough to have jets, you'd get a larger main jet and pilot jet.

If it doesn't have replaceable jets, adding a little intake restriction might turn the trick.

Dave

Reply to
spamTHISbrp

alright, I'll take the bait:

4-stroke makes sense for a car, but a mower?

Seriously, 2-stroke is great for a mower. The power to weight ratio is better than a 4-stroke and the simplicity of operation makes for a durable, light, cheap machine.

Reply to
mandtprice

Ok, I'll take it, too. Maybe I should get a 2 stroke mower- my yard has steep slopes. Used to drive a Saab way back when, but it was a V-4 Ford tractor engine(I had to switch it out once)- just missed by a couple years the 3 cylinder 2 stroke variety. BTW I've always considered the Wankel (such as Mazda used) a sort of 2 stroke- for better and worse- great power to weight ratio, poor separation between the strokes, thus emissions/ mileage limitations, burned valves, etc.

Reply to
Sev

According to :

Our lawnboy has had its ignition condenser die twice. That might be it.

Reply to
Chris Lewis

According to :

All of the oil you put in the gas ends up in the air, incompletely burned.

Yes, 4-stroke is more expensive and heavier. However, good ones tend to last a lot longer than 2-stroke (many of which can basically be considered disposable engines), usually quieter, usually easier to start, and they're certainly a lot cleaner in operation.

Each has their place.

Reply to
Chris Lewis

Yup, got a new one from zacm.com (crappy web design, but good people) and the thing fired right up. I did have a tough time finding a replacement plug for it, though. I found a Lawn-Boy branded one at Ace for about $7 - no thanks. I did eventually find it at Lowes for about $2.50. I also picked up a new air filter and reed valves, but seeing what would be required to actually replace the reeds I think I'll wait on those even though they are a little leaky.

I am happy to be mowing again.

Matthew Price

Reply to
mandtprice

It would be helpful if you knew what you were talking about. My 1986 (that's right - 20 years old) Lawnboy starts strong and runs stronger that any push mower engine i've ever had. And believe me, I've had a lot of them, Briggs and Techmseh. You claim that 4 strokes are "usually quieter", "usually easier to start". Wrong on both counts. My LB starts on the second pull EVERY time and is the quietest mower I've had. The great thing about the Lawnboy is that there are needle bearings at the bottom end constantly bathed in clean oil. I'm seriously expecting another 20 years out of this mower.

Reply to
Lhead

Chris; You have to use a good lawnboy to understand.

I personally have a lawnboy commercial unit, it works freaking great. It will basically cut and suck up anything on the lawn. I received a Honda unit from my parents. The engine on it is real nice but it just doesnt have the vacuum power to take the excess clips off the lawn. Its a problem with ALL

4 cycle engines/mowers. You need to have some recent suction and a 2 cycle by design spins up higher than 4 cycle lawn mower motors.
Reply to
BocesLib

According to Lhead :

My lawnboy is 3 years older than yours. So there! ;-)

It starts second pull every time, as long as I remember to tilt the thing when I prime it, and the condensor hasn't gone bad, and it hasn't been idle too many years.

Then again, the 1973 6HP Tecumseh 4 stroke wood chipper starts first pull (except when the carb got gummed up after sitting idle in the rain and snow for about 5 years).

And the 1970 12HP 4 stroke Kohler has always started quickly - even with a blown head gasket. Except in the winter. Try starting that LB at -30C sometime.

The kohler is considerably quieter than the LB except when it backfires.

How can it get bathed in oil? It's a two stroke. It don't have no oil bath.

I said _usually_. A decent 4 stroke Honda or the like with compression reduction during start will start easier than virtually any 2 stroke. And will be quieter given remotely comparable mufflers.

Certainly, 2 stroke has a considerable power-to-weight advantage over

4 stroke. At the expense of (usually) higher RPMS, more noise, sometimes more difficult starting, and a smoke cloud of partially burned oil.
Reply to
Chris Lewis

According to :

I have a good lawnboy. I understand.

No, it's an issue with the blade you put on it.

Not a great deal more than 4 stroke given the application. You don't want the blade going much faster than 3600RPM 2 or

4 stroke. Even if it did, you just change the pitch on the blade to get more suction if that's what you want.

Your commercial unit is designed for suction bagging.

My lawnboy's suction ain't all that great - but it's not a commercial bagger. I don't bag, so it don't matter.

[Mind you, we're building a wind tunnel with a 2 stroke weed wacker motor. A 16x16 prop generates quite a wind blast at 8000-9000 RPM. During tests just below freezing, we calculated a windchill factor of -50C. at 100% efficiency on the prop, that's better than a 100MPH wind blast.]
Reply to
Chris Lewis

Again, it would be helpful if you knew what you were talking about. No, it 'don't have no oil bath' , whatever that is. But remember that stuff you mix with the gas in a 32:1 ratio? Right! The oil!. Well, guess what Chris, that same oil, because of the design of the 2 stroke engine is pulled into and through the crankcase before it's burnt in the cylinder. The oil bathes the bottom end constantly. And, with each stroke a new charge of the mixture is brought in through the carburetor. Ain't education wonderful?

Reply to
Lhead

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