My dishwasher went out in my house and I found that the previous owners
didn't cut the hardwood floors off at the opening. They just ran them under
the dishwasher. No instead of a 34" opening I have 33 1/2. My question is
what is the best way cut the hardwoods back to flush with the opening so
that I can install a new dishwasher. I was thinking of using a router but I
won't be able to get it into the corners.
I think I'd go with a circular saw, set to the appropriate depth (cerefully!)
You won't get to the corners, but it'll get quite close to the edges.
Now, make lots (say 10) of cuts to break up the flooring, and the remmainder
should be easily removed by use of a chisel to cut it off.
Now, you've got the edges to do.
Cut the rest off working from the cut edge with a chisel.
http://inquisitor.i.am/ | mailto: firstname.lastname@example.org | Ian Stirling.
Think about what you just posted. What is removing the floor in the
dishwasher space going to gain you? Unless you are going to jack up the
counter top, the hole you will be sliding through isn't going to be any
taller. The finish floor is supposed to run under the appliances, so they
don't get trapped by the edge, and so leaks are immediately obvious vs.
running along the plywood below the finish floor. If the old dishwasher came
out of the hole, the new one should fit back in. AFAIK, they aren't making
them any bigger than they used to. Did you try playing with the leveling
screws to see if they will go shorter?
That is how it was supposed to be installed.
under the dishwasher and all other (free standing) appliances.
<snipped the wrong solution>
DO NOT REMOVE the floor under the dw.
you will gain nothing by removing it.
most (if not all) dw's fit in a space as small as 32 1/2" h.
what kind of dw are you replacing it with?
don't forget to install the "steam reflector plate" on the underside of the
countertop if your top is laminate or solid surface.
who ever installed your base cabinets did NOT gauge them properly.
(they should have been placed on 3/4" cleats)
it was NOT the hrwd floor installers fault.
This is interesting, I have never seen this in installation manuals. I
installed Mills Pride and the manual only instructs the user to level the
base cabinets. Do you use 3/4" cleats regardless of the type of the floor in
front of the cabinets?
that is assuming you already have a finished floor down.
this is when installing cabinets before finished floor.
the cleats would be the same thickness as the finished floor
this way you can tuck the finished floor 1/4" under the finished toekick and
cabinet sides and the finished height from floor to countertop would be 36"
that IS the proper way to install cabinets.
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