My problem with Tapcon is it is always hit and miss for me. I use a regular
corded hammer drill (which they provide in the screw box) to drill the hole
at the proper depth, I do have a SDS rotary hammer but for just drilling
holes I felt it's an overkill. I then use a cordless drill to drive the
Tapcons in. Problems is I don't like to use the phillips head Tapcon, I
have a hard time getting them to be perfectly flushed. Sometimes with
Tapcon I drives them all the way in and they spin and not bite, and
sometimes they just bite at 1/8" from the surface when I need them flushed.
With furring strips I need them flushed. I have better luck with driving
the hex head Tapcons but they won't be flushed.
I do agree with those who said using actuating tools on a strap hole may not
be a good idea. Good point. I will use hex head Tapcons for those since
they don't need to be flushed.
Any other ideas that would give good and quicker results without using two
drills interchangeably? Cost is a concern but not a big one.
No problem, the point of the projectile sticks out the muzzle a fraction
of an inch to locate the position, then you press against the surface
firmly enough to release the trigger-locking mechanism and fire. For
block you'll use a surface washer anyway to provide the backing. They
work fine; just finished mounting some electrical boxes, conduit straps,
etc., in the garage associated w/ the garage door opener under
discussion in the thread on the safety lights... :)
I own the inexpensive single-shot pistol-grip Remington; it works
adequately and the fasteners made specifically for it are readily
available at virtually all "ordinary" hardware/building supply outlets.
But Remington doesn't have the wide range of alternatives as does
Hilti such as the threaded studs, etc., and not all Hilti will fit to be
used in it.
So, I'd recommend the rental option of the Hilti--a good rental shop
should have several from which to choose; they make a variety some
specifically designed for electrical work such as you're talking as well
as others for the construction end. You may want to switch w/ tasks
although each will handle a range of fasteners not all...I don't recall
model numbers otomh; look at the Hilti site to see the catalog and get
an idea then tromp down to the rental location near you...
Miami, see if you can beg, borrow, steal an impact battery gun.
It makes a monumental difference using Tapcons. I went from
absolute refusal to use Tapcons (various failures through the
years) to being one of their staunchest supporters, all because of
the gun. The one I own is :
18 V with Lithium Ion batteries. Pricey, but excellent tool.
There are other brands.
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
Tapcon makes a tool [$20?] that holds the bit- then you slip a
'socket' over it and drive the hex head.
I have one and used it a lot when I first got it. Now
I find myself drilling as many holes as I can keep track of- then
using my Bosch impact driver to drive the Tapcons. BTW- I have
good luck with a bit of lube-- water, spit, whatever --on the Tapcon.
If it binds, I back up and drive it in again.
Depends on the weight mostly. And the construction of the wall. If it is
block, is every cell grouted? If not, you will have to use shallow tapcons,
or a powder actuated fastener will just blow a nice hole in the unfilled
block. If you do hit a filled cell, the weight of what's hanging will
dictate the fastener. For a lot of them, Tapcons will hold a lot of weight.
You can also use sleeve anchors, which I have found to work very well. Be
really careful of the placement of the fastener so that you don't drill into
a grout line, and drill in the center "meat" of the block or a filled
concrete cell whenever possible. Tapcons are easy to use, come in kits with
drills and everything, and have incredible pull out ratings.
Quarter inch carbide drill, plastic plug in anchors and sheetrock
screws do a good job and fairly fast if you drill into the mortar
joints. My "cool" room (8x12) has floor to ceiling shelves around 3
of the walls held up that way. Also did the furring strips to cover
the bare block walls with sheetrock in the basement.
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