I like the bar first then im more relaxed , then start at the bottom, as
you go up measure to the peak , you can drift and may need to constantly
adjust tung insert so you end up ok at the top and not inches off. Also
if your area is dry with low winter humidity not forcing the boards
tight would be smart as they will expand with summers high humidity.
Wood wetness is important it may be lower than your house needing to
aclimatise. I did mine in winter but left toungs not seated tight, last
summer at 90+% humidity it did not buckle and was fine, I used an air
On Mon, 28 Mar 2005 20:25:51 -0500, "Gary and Karla"
On any kind of facing application, start at the visual focal point of
the room, at the nearest corner. You need to do some measuring first
to make sure you don't wind up with a sliver at the other end
(although this can usually be mitigated with corner trim). Otherwise,
the rule of thumb is that if the end board/tile/etc will be less than
half its width, start with a half board/tile.
I'd start along the "show" side - the most visible side. It is
*extremely* unlikely that you will be able to put in the last piece on
the opposite side without cutting it and it is likely that the necessary
cut will result in a wedge shaped board. When there is a change in
pitch - nessesitating a rip - I'd do it so the board looks "folded".
As an alternative, you could treat each pitch change section as a
separate entity, starting a new, full board next to the ripped one on
the adjacent section. I still prefer "folding".
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